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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/02/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Not to thread jack but wanted to chime in on my rig too since your post actually inspired me to do the same set up. Obviously as you stated it’s not difficult to do and relatively self explanatory. I still need to clean up the line route and add some heat sink to tighten up the wire ends. However, with the install done for the night I thought I’d just show some night pics and give a brief review on those led light strips I went with the 24 inch, as you did, perfect fit imo Again I’ll need to clean up the route and add some tie downs and heat sink tomorrow morning when there’s light out. As for the strip. Great quality and good bang for the buck. They’re definitely silicone coated as stated and connections between the wire and the strip are of good quality as well. I’ll have the truck up in utah soon and I’ll be comfortable with these lasting. Thanks for the post and link for the led strip, definitely the visual pictures and write up you posted inspired me to do the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. 2 points
    After years of chatting about our own Pathfinder projects—and often, grumblings about having to make our own parts or hack together something—it’s become clear that Jacob (@TowndawgR50) and I (Patrick) have a common passion for our trucks. We’re always bouncing ideas around and sanity-checking each other’s work, ultimately realizing we have highly complementary skill sets that extend beyond working on trucks. We’ve also grown tired of a serious lack of aftermarket support for our trucks, especially when there’s an obvious demand to keep them on the road and make them more capable than they already are. To counter that, we’re teaming up to fill that void. That’s right: it’s time to turn a hobby into a business! In the weeks to come, we will be making more announcements regarding the status of the company (still working on the name!) and our product offerings. We’re still in the early stages of the company formation, and have some challenges ahead of us (most notably the 1,400 miles that separate us!), but we’re ready and stoked to get the word out there. If any of our individual projects have piqued your interest, then our collaborative efforts won’t disappoint. Our initial focus will be on subframe drop (SFD) kits, as this is the most important component required to move beyond 2” of front suspension lift. Unlike prior versions of kits that have existed, we intend to offer complete kits and à la carte components in multiple heights—including strut spacers—to support various lift configurations. Our particular focus is to provide high-quality finished products that simplify installation for the average DIYer (hint: strut disassembly not required), and without having to replace aftermarket components you’ve already purchased. While we won’t go into detail about all the products (and services) we’ve been discussing, we will tease that trailing arms and panhard bars (both in static lengths with poly bushings, and adjustable lengths with rebuildable joints), skid plates, missing link, and bumper brackets are on the product roadmap. That said, we’re looking forward to a productive 2019, so stay tuned!
  3. 1 point
    I've always wanted under hood lights. 20 years ago I thought about wiring up my own led string under the hood, but I shy'd away because of a lack of experience with soldering, circuits, etc. Now you can simply buy a strip that's already built and ready to go, so I decided I had no excuse not to try. There are sooo many choices on eBay and Amazon, it's a little overwhelming. I decided to go for one of the more pricey versions hoping it would be worth it and besides it came with the wire and pin switch. Here is what I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Underhood-LED-Light-Kit-w-Hood-Switch-Size-and-Color-Options-Available/291157773341?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=590308031148&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The ad claimed they lights were water and ice proof, sealed in a silicone coating. Ends sealed with marine grade heat shrink. 3M adhesive backing. I bought the 24" version of high intensity white. It has a 10' 20awg black wire and a small hood pin switch. The only thing I needed was more zip ties and a washer. Here is a before pic of the engine bay, in my garage, with the light on. I decided to mount it in front of the weatherstripping because it shined in my eyes less, although you'd really be looking down most of the time so who cares. It might have been protected more behind the weather stripping, but I went for it anyway. I drilled a small hole in the underside of the hood and fished the wire back to the rear corner. I pulled the wire through a little fast and it got in a little bit of a bind, but worked out ok. Next I used an existing hole to mount the hood pin by the battery since the positive would be headed that way anyway. I didn't have a power distribution block and I figured something this small didn't need a fuse. I ended up running the positive wire to the fuse box behind the battery. The negative side went to the pin switch. Easiest wire job ever. From there it was just a matter of zip tying up the wire. For less than $20 it is an easy and awesome mod. And the final result is:
  4. 1 point
    I've been using this as an on board computer and it provides some gauges. I think what I will do is find an old iPhone and a method to mount for long term. They don't come on automatically, but works well.
  5. 1 point
    I use a Scan Gauge for voltage and other gauges you don't generally see in cars. I don't think our VQs have an oil pressure sender that can indicate pressure tied to the ECU. It does have a low hi sensor for the idiot light. I'll have to double check that. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Here's the translation. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
  8. 1 point
    I was under the impression that the Qx4 flares were bigger and bulkier than the pathfinder flares. Aren't they?
  9. 1 point
    At least by ‘02 there was a U-Plug in the center console. I’ve pulled that whole center console a couple times-pretty easy. I plan on wiring some U plugs off the back, above the cupholder, for my kids. I also want to hardwire some some hidden USB plugs inside the lower center stack. I was thinking about trying & running a fresh line with its own fuse for those. There are some really nice U-Plug alternatives on Amazon-lit plugs in different colors, dual 2.4v USB outlets, audio line ins, amp & volt meters.
  10. 1 point
    I can't see much in the picture, but it looks like those fenders may have been trimmed, and the edges cleaned up and painted after the fact. A friend of mine put some "universal fender flares" on his S10 Blazer... by which I mean he used lawn edging. It honestly doesn't look too bad.
  11. 1 point
    Got it, yeah I’ve only seen 4 lifted Pathfinders in my town and have only seen them a couple times. I want to get them on NPORA!
  12. 1 point
    Well dangit, you're gonna make me go and buy another R50! This is really cool, can't wait to see your guys' products.
  13. 1 point
    Yes, there was an OE rear carrier for the 01-04 models, but it was very rare here. The main body was slightly different from 96-00 ones, but shared all the same hardware and latch components as far as I could tell. I’ve only seen a few pics of it. @TowndawgR50 saw one on the road in his neck of the woods just the other week. He scrambled to get some pics, but it was like trying to catch Bigfoot, lol.
  14. 1 point
    If anyone has any questions about installation, feel free to shoot me an IM. I did multiple installs to check lift height for different combinations of components so I learned a couple of tricks. Also, Steve's redesign of the front spacers (posts installed) solved the only issue that I found with the prototype design and that issue was not significant unless you are really stressing/flexing the front suspension. Be assured that Steve has safety in mind and has created a nice kit for the R51's.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks to K9sar, SFCreation is very proud to present you with the R51 lift kit. !! Made from time proven HDPE polymer they are as easy to install as they can be. The front spacers directly installs on top of the struts and the rear go on top of the coils. Unlike the R50, the R51 does come with adjustable camber; so no extra bolts to buy. The kit comes with everything including thread locking compound. The front spacers are already assembled with new studs so you don't have to. Simply the most affordable solution to lift your R51 Pathfinder on the market today. Of Course, Like the lift kit we made for the R50, the rear spacers are stackable. This mean if you buy 2" of spacers, you can install 1" or the full 2".. We have the 1.5"fr-1"rr for 1.5" of lift in front with 1" of lift in rear and we have the 2.5" all around. We offer 2 kits but you can always build your own by choosing the front and rear spacers separately ! Here's a few pictures ! 2.5 all around kit 1.5-1 kit Before lift After Lift You can buy the kits and/or the front and rear spacers separately here : https://sfcreation.com/t/pathfinder-r51-platform Cheers !
  16. 1 point
    Now to soup up that engine to a VG34 and have a SWEET daily driver! Looks fantastic man, always making me want to find a nice one to bring back to life.
  17. 1 point
    I don't think all those pieces match a 97 QX4. I know those roof rack bars are from the 99.5 and up QX4, I snagged a set myself from pull-a-part. I don't think those door plates are 97 OE either, but I like them. I wish I knew what they were from. I need to do that on mine! I think you've got a bargain. For $500 anything that cranks and runs is good. My AC is out and I'll have to pay more than that to repair it I'm afraid.... That's why I don't have AC. Good job dude! Maybe you can share some detail on all these LED lights your changing. I'd like to do that, but I am not handy with a soldering iron. That's a skill I haven't mastered. Replacing the axle and such is easy. I did that with hand tools in my garage. Do you have a FSM?

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