Leaderboard

So I decided to give it a whirl without the roof racks and it has worked amazing so far. All I had to do was rotate the tent rails 90'. I did put some foam in between the mounts and the vehicle rails to protect to try protect the finish. As you can see it obviously sits much lower which is nothing but a good thing!

Just a random pic to show off the insane JDM spoiler/wing. Here's one of the situations I got snatched from... Note the rear tyre is off the ground! Diffed out hard... And a pic of the XROX bar

My daughter's pathfinder would not shift into second gear until the engine was completely warmed up. I had no OBD II codes. I searched the Internet for an easy solution. I read that It's "OK" when it's cold outside for a transmission to take up to 3 miles or 3 minutes to shift into second gear . They give several BS reasons why, and then state it's "normal". BS! If it takes 30 seconds to minute to shift into second, there is a problem! I believed the crap about hardened seal's, etc. I put in trans max, Lucas, etc, they didn't work. As recommended by the internet pro's...I replaced the solenoid pack As recommended by internet pro's, even without a OBDII code That was my issue, I had no codes...it didn't work. I replaced the O'rings on the shift accumulator pistons, As recommended by SEVERAL internet pro's. it didn't fix my problem. Today, I took a entire valve body from a 04 Xterra 2WD transmission from Pick N Pull, ($50.00) installed in the 1998 pathfinder transmission, and the Transmission shift's like new again. SOO, if your RE4R01A Transmission has an issue, the gut's from my 98 to an 04 are "nearly" the same. By that I mean the Valve Body with solenoid's. A TRICK HERE: When you drop the valve body, 3 springs will fall out that are located between the transmission case and the valve body on the driver's side of the transmission They are shift piston/accumulator springs. NO PROBLEM! Look up on the internet for the drawing of which bolts need to be removed. There are two different length's of bolts, make sure each bolt goes into it's proper hole.. When re-installing the valve body, just barely start a bolt on the passenger side of the valve body. This will allow the drivers side of the valve body to hang down several inches. This allows you to install the springs, then lift the valve body up to the transmission and install the rest of the fasteners. I wish I could have found that information on the internet.! I was quoted $2900.00 to repair this transmission from a independent transmission repair shop, NOT including a defective valve body! I was told that would be extra. Yep, "PRICES's" transmission shop in Virginia Beach, VA quoted me that last week.

Awesome thank you Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Well I went with warm white for the gauge cluster but I think there is a blue hue in the actual cluster itself because it’s slightly more blue now.. but not much. Here’s a pic, you can see the 4WD diagram there has the warmer looking light and that’s what it all looked like before and now it’s a tiny bit more bluish: Superbrighrleds.com spec section said that the ones I bought are dimmable and they do dim when I roll the dimmer switch. Here’s the ones I got: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/74-led-bulb-3-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/228/1068/ Here what the spec section says: So are you saying the LED burns out or the dimmer switch itself? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Load limits are calculated conservatively for dynamic loads on the load bars. Static loads would be greater. Additionally, 10 conduit clamps, distributed as 5 per rail, pretty evenly distributes the load to the 4-6 bolts holding the rail to the roof (depending on if you count the endcaps which insert pretty solidly into the rails). Personally, I think this can likely take a higher load. That said, I’ve carried on the facelifted load bars something like four 3/4” treated sub flooring 4x8’ panels & a dozen 8’ treated 2x4”s - once even with a 35mph emergency stop. While probably not advisable, I think it can probably take alot. I will definitely consider standing on the mounted full length Rola rack & as long as I limit fluids to 5-8g, I can’t imagine I can put too much camping gear up there-I’m sure I’ve done more with lumber in the past.

Yeah they're cheap and effective. And they allow flexibility for when the unibody flexes as well while keeping everything secure Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I installed some LED bulbs in my map light and front/rear dome light fixtures. I also put wedge style LEDs in my gauge cluster. This is from last night. The camera on my phone was picking up a lot more light than what was visible to my eyes. This is closer to what it really looks like. I couldn’t get an accurate picture of what the fixture itself looks like to the eyes. The camera must pick up a good amount more than the eye. Today my other LEDs came in so I put one 5000k bulb in the passenger map light fixture and left the red on the driver. That way, I have light when I need it but I also have the option to keep my night eyes. For the dome lights I went with 3500k bulbs. I like the warm incandescent filament color temperature but the added brightness is hopefully going to be an upgrade. I don’t know yet because the sun is still up. I am most excited about the gauge cluster. The incandescent bulbs just aren’t bright enough for this new gauge cluster I got from the junkyard. The background color is a metallic grey with micro flakes and the lettering is white so the contrast is pretty poor when driving in the evening or morning and the super dim bulbs literally do nothing until it’s almost completely dark out. Here is the difference as of now. I’ll never lose another burger again! We’ll see what it looks like tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will do. Hopefully will have it early Jan sometime. I like the XROX design because it will transfer the load from the recovery points basically straight into the fake chassis rails, rather than being attached to the subframe/lower rad support like the factory points which also sit a bit low for when you bury the nose in mud... Ask me how I know haha

6mo eh, that’s pretty optimistic

Alternatively, It’s super easy to just mount them below the bumper. I have a pair mounted upside down with the mount screw coming up through the lower inside of the metal bumper that have been there 14 years. Mine are lateral to the OEM hitch but just inside where the hitch mounts to the truck. I’ve hit that hitch countless times but not yet taken those lights out. Mine are wired to the reverse lights with an override toggle down by the fuel release in case I want to use them at camp or to suggest to the person behind me to dim their headlights.