Leaderboard

So I have a 97 pathy SE 4wd. The previous owner was the only owner before me and it came from California where the guy apparently went over sand dunes with it and drove it all the way where I am which is Wisconsin.. so it feels very low geared and I’m wondering how I could actually check what gears are in it and how to check if it has locking or limited slip.. is the only way to truly find out having to take everything apart count the teeth in the gears and check if it’s locking, limited slip, or open...? My plans are to lift it around 6ish inches and put 35’s on it with a SFD and bigger coil springs, the coil springs are getting pretty bad my buddy stood next to the car and was rocking the whole thing about.. it was pretty bad so I defiantly need new coil springs anyway.. If it’s lifted that high would I still need to trim bumpers or fenders or anything to fit 35’s? I’m not really looking to do much rock crawling or things like that I’m looking to go have a good time in the mud. Anyone know of a good winch and brush guard? Anyway it’s almost perfect for a daily driver as it sits, needs new struts, coil springs, and maybe wheel bearings but besides that it’s in really good shape. If you have any recommendations for mods I could do that would be greatly appreciated... Did i forget to mention it has underglow and it’s blacked out? LMAO... oh and there is like no rust anywhere even on the underbody... she’s in great shape! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks man that's what you get in FL, rust isn't really a concern at all. Still puzzling over this trans issue, Gonna have to sit down and break out the multimeter, i really do NOT want to crack the case on this thing on the truck.

All of the above for shure Im glad some one else carries super glue with them, when your stuck in the snow or mud and you get a nice gash and you start leakin vital red stuff it will act as a second skin! also works on the nagin girl friend just apply to lips and hold four 3 seconds.

Weird. Makes me wonder if it might have an electrical issue. Have you run codes on it?

cue tokyo drift music

I answered a few of your questions regarding SFD, gears, and LSD in another reply from you before seeing this post. Bumpers options are nonexistent, except a rather expensive ARB...probably wouldn't do much good for mudding. I'm working on producing some bumper brackets for those considering a custom route; I've built up a winch bumper on mine with the first prototype. Welcome aboard!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

6" is doable, but you'll need a 4" SFD and 2" lift springs up front (OME HD/MD) and likely one of the LR springs and 2" spacers for the rear. The gear ratio is on the door jamb sticker or the VIN plate under the hood. Look for HG43 (4.363) or HG46 (4.636) in the corner of the tag. If you've got an LSD, there should be an orange "LSD oil" sticker on the diff hump on the back of the axle.

Greetings from Edmonton, AB. Just your typical middle-age office drone looking to build a rig capable of getting into areas full of adventure and out of any trouble I find. 2000 Pathfinder SE; 2"SF Creation lift

I am unbelievably jealous of how rust-free your Pathfinder is! Pair that with this 4x4 conversion and you'll be enjoying it for many years to come.

Yeah its odd. I saw LE's with the wood Pathfinder center stack, Cloth seats and TX10's. LE's with wood Pathfinder center stack but Manual AC. LE's with the QX4 Center stack and the TX14a. They are ALL over the place. The 2004 Platinum LE's consistently are the same and just using the QX4 parts - so QX4 stack and TX14a- makes sense since the QX4 was discontinued. They are also running $4000-5000, which to me is too high. Ended up picking this sucker up for $1000. 2001 LE. This one has the (lame) Pathfinder center stack and white sport gauges, but does have the TX14a transfer and heated seats, and sunroof. Memory too. Salvage Title (new bumpers, pretty easy to see), and 192k miles. Reasonable tires, but does have alignment issue. Paint (besides the bumpers and rock chips on the hood) is MINT and the interior is gorgeous - just the usual rip on the driver seat. It runs very well - it had a pending CAT heater code and a SRS code flashing light in the beginning and I almost walked away. I reset both at the very beginning of the test drive and we test drove it for a good 45 minutes (without the owner) with multiple starts/stops and and quite a bit of highway - neither came back. First up - emissions to make sure it passes before I spend any money on it - Torque says ODBII emissions are good though - then off to a shop for at the very least an alignment and TREs - possibly a new tire, and its off to the races for the mod list ;). Ran up to Park City (over 6k feet) from Salt Lake today smooth as could be with the Auto AC blowing cold and the ECT never topping 201F.....love this motor.

At dead halt, and shifted to D very little power transfer Shift to 1 or 2 good to go Once she's in 3rd everything works normal including OD At highway speeds I can let off then accel and all works as it should Sound like yours?

Well, looks like we're fast approaching September... The bad news is that early/mid August goal didn't happen. The good news, though, is that the conversion of garage to shop is progressing well. I added several new circuits the other week, finished installing an air compressor and lines (I #@$%^& hate pneumatics) this week, and finally put the plasma table through its first cycle (no cutting, though) the other night. The heat in the garage has became too unbearable, so I dropped some coin for a mini-split AC, which I'll be installing this weekend. Then, lastly (ugh, I hope), I'll put in a fume extraction/ventilation system. I can't explain the anxiety I've had from having to drill so many holes into the outside of my stucco house. The grand finale will be a 6" one...still building up courage for that one. Bottom line is that I'm getting there! I hit up the steel shop the other week to grab various plate scraps for some initial cuts once things are ready. I've not looked into any actual material costs yet, though, so will still need to come up with pricing numbers for those interested. As before, stay tuned. This is gonna happen.

Apologies for digging up such an old post, here are some pictures of the original kit I built in 2005 and the two prototypes that were sent to Colorado. The pictures should give someone an idea of how the parts are made for duplication. As was said before, the hardest part is the strut spacers which require precise angles to achieve original geometry. Drop lift pics from 2005. I do not recommend the steering spacer block! http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/drop lift/ Here are pics of the two prototype lift kits I made and sent to Colorado (in 2009). http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/lift_kit/ This one has a good picture of the Honda steer u-joint that should be used:

On the shore of the Baltic Sea, in the Lomonosov district of the Leningrad region.

A picture of my car and not myself. Cuz I'm always anon And another.