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I can also confirm that 3.75" of backspace is the magic number. You may have issues with major tire rub at full flex in the rear, in addition to the general trimming you'll need to do since the tire won't neatly tuck behind the quarter panel anymore when flexing. If you're truck isn't rusty it *should* be a fairly easy job to add 2" thick by 3" diameter body lift spacers to the rear bumpstops with longer bolts to keep the tire off the body.

After some digging around it seems 235/85r16 tires will clear the strut with a back space <= 3.75in, which translates into an offset of <= -6mm. Since I have stock 7Jx16 ET20 rims with +20mm offset, seems 1.5in wheel spacers will do the trick, in lieu of getting new rims. Now rubbing on the wheel well, flaps, fender etc. is a different story, but I'm willing to sculpt my truck into a modern art masterpiece lol. Ref:

The speaker and radio are on their own circuit as can been seen in the fuse box under the dash and have nothing to do with the engine circuits unless they were wired directly to the battery. IF they were wired to the battery you may have popped a fuse somewhere else. I also would like to note that if you don't have a fuse to the dash, the truck won't start... at all... The real question is : does it crank? If yes, then your problem is most likely coil; if not then: weak ground straps, ignition module (prone to failure) or a oil soaked starter (replace). Aaaannnnd that's all I've got...

THEY FIT! It has been a long time since i have tried oversized tires on an R50 and I forgot what works and what dosen't. Specs are: stock wheels 4 3/4" backspace 16x7 wheels 265/75/16 (31.7") KO2s! The mudflap will have to be removed or trimmed up front and the front bumper MAY have to be cut, but maybe not. Front bumper won't be there for more than a year or two anyways. I won't be using these wheels, I am going to go with 16x8s with 4" of backspace. About the VQ oil burning, I had read this is due to bad cats (caused by bad gas or excessive fueling/lack of maintenance) sheding ceramic and it being sucked into the engine due to reversion at low rpm then tearing up the rings and cylinder walls. Parts I have already: Discs Pads front driveshaft U-joints shoes rear brake hardware kit clutch kit second battery system from my taco ham radio and antenna Parts on order: Every single water hose under the hood except two which are discontinued rear seal poly bushings for everything but the sway bars including the panhard and rack and pinion 2" lift springs kyb struts bilstien 5100s strut bearings camber bolts for struts Parts I need: wheels and tires rear muffler assembly stereo system (something android auto) possibly a new welder with a spool gun so I can do aluminum skids and because it's time for a new welder probably more I cannot think of Sliders - will probably buy these

Welcome back, man. Knowing what you know, think you'll go SFD or SAS again? Nice find on the MT! My guess for engine failure is the power valve screws coming loose (don't get @RainGoat started). BTW, if considering the SFD again, search the forums for Land Rover springs...several of us are using them for more lift and cheaper than OMEs (and they ride well).

Okay Summer, you had a good run but it's time to move along now!