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You may be confusing the R50 (96-04) & R51 (05-12), as the early production R51 (05-08) had a ton of transmission failures due to bad radiators. The trans cooler inside the radiator would fail, causing engine coolant to mix with trans fluid, commonly referred to as the strawberry milkshake of death (SMOD), which would then quickly kill the transmission. If the radiator was replaced with an upgraded unit, or if the radiator was bypassed with a quality external trans cooler, prior to this happening, those transmissions are going a minimum of 200k miles as well. As far as the durability of the transmission in the R50, I've seen several well maintained units still fulfilling daily driver duties with over 250k miles, original drivetrain components still intact. My 96 had almost 200k when I sold it 3 years ago, it's still going strong, and my 01 currently has 180k, no issues.

here you go.. (You will need to remove the door panel.then...

Installed Eyebolts for securing cargo. If I’m going on a trip where I’ll be off-road a lot, I like to throw a net over the cargo area to hold all the loose stuff down. My critically heavy items are camstrapped to the floor cargo tie downs, but the net just attaches to the fairly weak upper cargo points & the rear seat headrest posts if the rear seats are up. I’ve been wanting to do the cargo tie downs for 14 years. My thought was to simply use eye bolts where the machine screws anchor in the body. Those are M6x1.0 threads, however, and metric eye bolts, particularly in stainless or zinc, are quite difficult to find. Combined with a lack of motivation, this usually stopped me. When I had a time limit to solve an essentially identical problem in my Mom’s new 4Runner I was finally forced to get it done (admittedly, testing it on the Path first). The key was ridiculously obvious. I simply needed to rethread the frame bolts to 1/4” & I would have endless hardware options. Warning, this is an irreversible step. You can remove the metal arms or even fold them out-I just kept them folded for now. A slightly shortened spacer would recess the eye hook some, which I would prefer, but a hardware option wasn’t readily available to me. You could also use washers instead of a spacer. If you remove the metal arm entirely, you can use a single washer for a much more recessed eye bolt-though I think it then reaches the point of being too difficult to use (you also may want a shorter eye bolt). Anyway, here is the modification for anyone who is interested. Cargo Tie Downs: (2 above cargo window/2 in front of tonneau cover slot) Rethread M6x1.0 frame machine screw holes with a 1/4” tap. Spacer-Chrome Steel 0.5x0.25” [Everbuilt] 2 pack x2 Eyebolt-Stainless Steel 0.25” x 2” (6.3x50.8mm) 160#(72.5kg ) Working Load Limit [Everbuilt] SKU372941 2 pack x2

Yeah & throwing in 2 adorable kids didn’t hurt either! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have had the p1444 in the past. I believe that that code deals specifically with the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Vavle. If your engine bay looks like this than I can help: If I remember correctly than the EVAP system changed significantly half way through 98 so some 98's have the system in the picture and others have an older system. If you have the system in the picture than your problem is with the valve that I circled. Possibly a bad wiring connection or the valve itself is bad due to wear or a bad charcoal canister. To check for bad charcoal canister: You can disconnect the hoses that I traced in red in the picture and check them to see if they are clogged with pieces of charcoal. In my case, the hose closest to the valve was full of charcoal. I actually had the P1440 code first and when that cleared was left with the P1444 code but it is possible you have this problem. If there is charcoal in the lines than that means the charcoal in your canister has broken up and should be replaced. This is an easy replacement. However, when you replace the canister you should also blow out all the evap lines. There is a hardline that runs from the engine bay all the way to the back drivers side corner of the vehicle where it connects to the canister. This line should be blown out with compressed air (I used a shop vac and some duct tape to suck the charcoal out). The small rubber hoses connecting the various parts of the EVAP system should also be blown out (the hoses I traced in red and some similar hoses that connect to the EVAP canister). In my case the charcoal had clogged the Purge Volume Control Valve causing the P1444 code. I replaced it with the same valve from a 98 altima and the code cleared out. Here is a post that might help: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33018-p1440-evap-small-leak/. It took me a while to figure out which valve the P1444 was referring to. If you don't see charcoal in the lines than try checking the wiring to the valve. If you leave the hood open and turn the ignition to on (don't turn the engine on) you should be able to hear the valve click if it is working correctly. I had someone else turn the key while I listened to the valve to hear it click. Hope this helps.