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That will be KYB struts

The parts that would be hard to fix aren't the parts you can see in the pictures. It obviously needs a bumper, a fender, and some work on the core support. Can't tell if the suspension, inner fender/strut tower, cooling system, or subframe are messed up. Check the alignment. Engine bay looks clean. Worth checking when the timing belt was done last. If it was done at the recommended mileage, it's about ready for another one.

Progress has been very slow. Kids' sports in full swing and I started a new job at the beginning of April. New focus had been getting my Frontier back into commuter mode. I'm dropping off a set of LE wheels for refinishing and powder coating in the morning, and new rubber by the end of the week. It should look fantastic...it better be for what I'll be paying. Since last update, I built a new bracket and re-slung the engine. I didn't like that I could only use one bolt on it due to space limitations, but it creates a cantilever that holds fine. The intermediate piece is bar stock from the WJ steering shaft after I cut it down. View from the bottom... Engine hasn't fallen to the floor yet, so it must be good enough. I also mulled considerably on the radius arm brackets. Wanted to get caster adjustment since the optimal angle varies depending on who you ask. OE caster is 3°±0.75°, but the straight axle community says 4°-8°. So, I'm targeting 5°, and the caster adjustment I did gives me ±2° range. The final brackets... My craptastic welding. Old Blue in the background to distract you. And finally, actual results... Finding the right caster (or really, camber bolts turned 90°) was a pain. The front FJ bushings use 16mm bolts, and the only 16mm caster/camber bolts I could find were the lobe style we use for camber adjustment on our struts, but they were all just a little too short. Anything else I could find that used a cam washer was 14mm and too long, except ones for a late-80's to early-00's GMC/Chevy trucks and vans which were a good length but still 14mm bolts. I ended up using 14mm ID x 16mm OD sleeve bushings to fill the void. Took some effort to get the slotting sorted to make the adjustment work, but they work great. Other hardware being used is OE Toyota. I did not do a very good job of maintaining spacing on the brackets for the bushings. I had scrap bushings from a prior job to swapping out bushings on FJ arms, and used them as spacers, but the welding still tightened up on them. I was able to coax them to width without angling them out, except for the lower panhard mount. Just needed to grind down the sleeve for a few seconds and it's good to go, though.

Anecdotally, I run KYB struts with OME springs and the ride is really nice.

Sorry it's taken me awhile to get back, thanks for the tips! I did (i think) run my finger along the edge/use a mirror and flashlight to try and see what is mostly likely seepage. (I have a UV light...somewhere...tried it to find a similar leak on my frontier, but never saw the "bright green spots", so gave up on it, plus I'm too lazy to look for it again!) I think I'm gonna replace the passenger's side first, see if my approach works before tackling the driver's side. Are these "bulging areas" of any concern? Should the NEW gasket conform and fill in any gaps? (I did replace these MANY moons ago, and the last time I drove this thing 3+ years ago, I don't recall them leaking (it's smoking BAD now), but it has been sitting for 3 years!)

I looked up some part numbers on nissanpartsdeal to see what was up with this. The short version is I don't see why they wouldn't fit. I've heard of people doing dash and interior swaps, and I don't remember anyone complaining that the seat belts didn't bolt up afterwards. If you want to be sure, you could pick up a few grey belt parts from a wrecker or a part-out to confirm that they mount up the same before you shell out for fresh ones. I swapped '95 seat belts into my '93, but they were the same parts, just cleaner (PO was a smoker). For the most part, they're not that tough to work with, but be careful with the belt guide clips halfway up the B pillars. Gotta ease those out gently. And take a picture of the rear belts before taking them out, so you don't mix up the three in the middle. The long version: I looked up the same part (left-hand front belt buckle, color code K) for '87, '90, '93, and '95, and found three part numbers. '87 is 86843-03G60. '90 is 86843-12G60, but the listing suggests that the 12G60 replaces the 03G60, suggesting it's just a minor design change from the original. '95 pulled up 86843-61G00, which for some reason isn't listed as a replacement for 12G60. '93 pulled up 12G60 and 61G00, because transition year, but searching with my VIN pulled up 61G00 only. NPD has an actual photo (for a change!) of 12G60. I compared it to my grey 61G00, and so far as I can compare a low-res picture on a laptop screen to a scuffed-up original IRL and determine which one is which shade of grey, I'm like 90% sure the 12G60 is in fact the brown one. I don't think they changed the part number just for the color, though, because the blue and red buckles also have early and late variants listed for '93. So, yeah, as is often the case with part numbers... something changed around '92/'93. Give it a shot, let us know if it works!

Stick your finger on the edge of the valve cover just above the exhaust manifolds. If you feel oil or oily residue then you have your answer. also they are 30 year old trucks now, so if they aren't leaking I'd be surprised.

Ohh dude, your content is great. Just getting to the point where I can shoot pics of my 55KM original 2003 SE in BC Canada. It has been a 1 year rebuild with a low km find. Drives nice. Colin

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Really sad news guys. Andrew, who goes by @Dbot on here, has passed away. Prayers and condolences to his family. https://www.news-leader.com/story/news/local/2024/04/15/andrew-hendrix-killed-car-crash-near-lake-springfield/73329149007/