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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    Our 2003 Gambler500 rig received the second iteration of the SFD kit this weekend. Prior to this the front end was swapped with @ferrariowner123 's 1996 and the results were great. Fast forward to this past weekend- We held a workshop to iron out processes and familiarize @02_Pathy with the work required to install our kit as he will be performing the install at his place and helping @Stpickens with his truck. Huge thank you to @ferrariowner123 & @02_Pathy as well as the rest of the PNW and SW test groups for their help, participation, patience and the initial work required to make this all happen. For now the Gambler rig still needs mechanical attention and some odds and ends to be ready for the Washington state Gambler 500 event in August but the bulk of the prep and install is done. Its currently setup with our Pines to Spines 4" SFD kit, factory worn out front struts and springs and LR9448 rear springs with the OEM rear shocks. It will receive some replacements for the older suspension components, the current prototype roof mount system for a rack and accessories, a swing gate and some other items but mostly run as is for the event. We are aiming to run this truck through its paces and, pending positive results, start installing the kits on the test group rigs for real world trials soon after.
  2. 10 points
  3. 9 points
    My “new” bumper! Only 2 1/2 years after my fender bender, I was finally able to get an off-road bumper for the Pathfinder. It’s a second hand Coastal Offroad bumper which I obtained from a guy in Portland who was returning his R50 to stock. It was installed at a @pines2spines Tiger Mountain Test Lab workshop by the PNW R50 crew. (@02_Pathy,[mention=32880]ferrariowner123[/mention] & some interim storage by[mention=39745]stpickens[/mention]). It NEVER would have been successful, however, without the insight and technical skills of the Grandmaster of Ceremonies,[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention], to whom I am forever indebted!
  4. 9 points
  5. 9 points
    The pathy got to crawl on some econo cars today Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  6. 8 points
    Another Pathy Party (5 this time)! Yesterday started as a Pines to Spines Offroad SubFrame Drop test fitment party on the Gambler 500 rig; however, after taking this picture, the guys all said my front end was such an eyesore that something had to be done.(@TowndawgR50 , [mention=40509]pathy_02[/mention],[mention=32880]ferrariowner123[/mention])
  7. 8 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 8 points
    Popped by the paint shop to check on the Troutfinder and it was done, so I brought her home and put her back together-Mostly! Complete color change. Color is Thunder. Toyota color from the 2018 Toyota 86. Pre-pictures are over in the Garage forum. Really like the outcome. It came out Sick! More of the blue comes out when in the shade as can be seen in some of the pics. They were supposed to leave the decals off of the back. I was gonna paint them flat black or just leave them off. Gonna have to prep them and spray them black now! Daylight was running out, so I still have to put the rear tire, jack and rod cannon back on. Although I'm debating the cannon or switching over to an awning. Next up: -Put the interior back together -Build custom slim line nerf bars from stock mounting hardware. -Cleaning and painting the under carriage black including visible exhaust piping, accenting some pieces in Red. -Detail the engine and engine compartment-Blackout with Red accents.
  9. 8 points
    After getting the rear bumper finally ready for finishing, I decided that I was going to put some enamel colors onto the AZ flag and Nissan logos, and then bed lined around things. The enamel process was a bigger PITA than I had planned on (I hate painting), but I think the results turned out well*. (*=great considering my hatred of painting, despite not being pleased with the bedliner color.) I used tintable bed liner from Custom Shop on Amazon. The color is supposed to be Battleship Dark Gray, but I'd argue it is neither dark nor gray. I've complained to a few buddies that I don't like the color, but it does offer some degree of contrast that I was looking for. I still need to spray the sliders, and that will be a couple weeks out given my schedule, but I'll find out if that completes the "look". If I don't like it (and chances are that I won't), I'll probably pull everything back off for some spray paint (ugh) and get it closer to the dark gray I was hoping for. The bedliner product itself I'm pleased with; nice texture, hard, smooth, but provides grip without feeling rough. The Custom Shop stuff is the same as the U-Pol Raptor product. It was a mess spraying on the side of my house...I spent a day building a rack to hang all gear from, plus a few hours converting my HF easy-up canopy into a spray booth. Mostly successful, but I hated every minute of it. The front bumper got sprayed, too, and I finally got around to mounting the IPFs graciously donated to the cause by @Jax99. I have yet to wire them up, though...trying to find a decent switch for the left-hand panels, as the Carling rockers interfere with the dash a little. I thought I'd have some luck with a Toyota-sized aftermarket switch, but will go a different route.
  10. 8 points
  11. 6 points
    Ultimately, this was just a trial fitting. The bumper was there &[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] couldn’t help himself. Whoever the prior owner had weld it up did a mediocre job & made some mistakes in the mounting plate fitment. It would never have gone on without cutting, grinding, bending & welding (all by[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention]). Also, it weighs 97# so @02_Pathy &[mention=32880]ferrariowner123[/mention] had to help muscle it up & hold it in place while he made fitment adjustments. It will need to come off for repainting and light & winch mounting - plus I’ll paint the seam, washer reservoir & intake resonators black. While it’s off,[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] wants to radius the corners & improve the welds (he’s a perfectionist & I’m gratefull). It does look good & I’m thankful to have it but I’ll probably switch it out once @pinestospines ([mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] &[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] ) finish development on their version. Those two just make a great team. They really think things through & are willing to go back & rework a problem until they get exactly what they want. Through discussion & first hand observation I have great faith in both of their judgements.
  12. 6 points
    @!*% sorry mates didn't realize I'm an idiot. Should be fixed now see above. Pathy is 31" KO2s, KYB / AC Springs in the front, and Bilstein 5100s / LR Springs in the back. Nothing crazy. Lots got stuck here
  13. 6 points
    Big booty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 6 points
    With the new toy. -Kyle
  15. 6 points
    96Se 97Q Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  16. 6 points
    Finally got the rest of the lift In! KYB struts, ac springs, Nrc9447, bilstein 29" shocks. Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
  17. 5 points
    Got a good flex pic last weekend, love this rig for camping!
  18. 5 points
  19. 5 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. 5 points
    Yeah, we’ve developed a really nice collection of People with 6-8 core R50s and a handful of peripheral ones along with close association with@hawairish & his folks down the in the SW.
  21. 5 points
    I've been looking for an R50 for a while now, and went to check out a few that were posted on FB/Craigslist today. I ended up walking away with this diamond in the rough. It's a 1997, 4WD, with the LSD (of *course* I checked for the sticker...before even test driving it!). It's got around 220k on the clock, but the previous owner had taken very good care of it. No real leaks, the interior is clean, and while it's got a few little bumps from being 22 years old, the paint is surprisingly not completely oxidized (pretty common in Arizona heat). I'm going to spend the summer just combing through everything and getting it back to 100%, but the first mod on the list is tires and a mild lift. Maybe a keyless entry for convenience before that.
  22. 5 points
    Sliders are on! Can’t wait to try them out
  23. 5 points
    Sorry, but this thread is nonsense. It’s maybe the 3rd or 4th post where you’ve claimed that everyone’s giving you BS about rebuilding a diff. Well, considering I’m one of those guys who has provided plenty of information through forum posts and direct messages—the same guy who has rebuilt several of these units, done numerous axle projects, who hoards Nissan diffs and axles, and even offered to send you a completely rebuilt unit when you first started complaining about it—I’m trying to not take this personally. But frankly, I think you’ve got some unrealistic expectation from all the shops you’ve contacted and are probably poorly conveying the problem, and it’s these posts that are becoming BS. Seriously, you’re asking about what is effectively an SAS without steering components, yet you won’t just go to a damn junkyard, pull a <$200 differential from practically any Pathfinder, Hardbody, Frontier, or Xterra, check the backlash with a $10 tool, and swap it in? A day, tops, in labor, <$300 in parts and fluids, and access to the exact Factory Service Manual used by Nissan technicians, to be done with this problem? You even have an opportunity to improve your driving and towing characteristics (via upgrade to LSD and/or lower gearing for a whopping $0 extra), without having to deal with any of the front gearing because you’re 2wd?You’ve got to be kidding me! Face the fact that most shops don’t have experience rebuilding Nissan diffs because they probably don’t fail often. But any drivetrain or off-road shop can simply rebuild that diff for whatever they charge Toyota guys. It’s the exact same design, and it’s a trivial one requiring little more than hand tools to swap, and not much more to rebuild. Bearings can be bought on RockAuto, and diff gaskets from Nissan for cheap. And the FSM describes every single step to do it! But here we are talking about swapping entire axles from Fords! I can tell you it’s significantly harder than just going to a junkyard and buying an axle from a Pathfinder, and yet still more difficult than just pulling the diff. I say get your hands dirty or get rid of the truck if this is really the hassle and decision you’re facing.
  24. 5 points
    thanks for all that! got the 9448s and 29” bilsteins and i love the way it drives now also that looks way better too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. 5 points
    installed a CB radio and antennae. Cheap uniden unit off of amazon and a 4 ft firestik antennae on the roof rack. Built a crude swivel mount (thanks @micahfelker for the brainstorming help) with clevis pins so that it can lock at a 90* angle or fold down for parking in the garage. I stuffed the actual radio in between my driver seat and center console, it sits almost flush with the level of the seat, then I can swivel it up for a better look at the buttons. I also did my power valve screws, they were all still there! Thanks @02_Pathy and @Astrorami for the help.
  26. 4 points
    Fun little trip up to the hills to run on some mild trails, 1 rock wanted to high five my door, now I'm buying rock sliders lol Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  27. 4 points
    Went on a weekend shake down trip for the new suspension in the Cascades. I can really see why I’ve never heard a complaint about the ARB OME struts & HD springs. That’s a 97# bumper on there and the truck has never driven smoother or tighter. I’m looking forward to an A-Arm poly upgrade. I find the Land Rover 9448s a little rough but they improve with some load.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] thinks part of the rear issue may be my Tyler Morgan control arms as his truck is smoother in back. I’m running his old Bilstein 5100s while we figure out the right 5165s so that may be contributing as well. I think I’m getting a little top out now & then. Thanks again to[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] who consumed three whole afternoons (until Midnightish) working with me to change everything over. It honestly would never have happened without him.
  28. 4 points
    Sounds like a solid plan. Polyurethane bushings are a great upgrade for the R50 platform and provide a lot of bang for your buck. I have changed all rubber bushings on my truck with SuperPro front poly bushings and Chasis Unlimited rear control arm poly bushings with fantastic results. Id reccomend the upgrade to anyone with the budget and time. Thay said- Id argue that the Nolathane products Ive used recently arent the best quality available, but OK if your on a tight budget. The bushings available from AC(SuperPro) and Energy suspension are great quality and worth the additional cost. Energy suspension runs slightly higher on hardness scale(70-80 on the durometer scale) than the Superpro units(50-60, slightly harder than OEM rubber of 40-50). For street driving this may be desirable but translates more vibration and road noise and will increase harshness off road. I feel the SuperPro units have a great balance of polyurethane performance without inducing the standard issues that come with polyurethane since they are only slightly harder than the OEM rubber units. I use my vehicle for towing and off road recreation and the entire suspension package (see my signature) has made for a great dual purpose vehicle.
  29. 4 points
    The smashfinder that could Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  30. 4 points
    And then a $30 gusset kit, weld job was $220 exactly, so $550. this is how he mounted them. He welded the brackets on and then the sliders to the brackets. He opted out on gusseting at the frame rail and instead gusseted at the first horizontal bar.
  31. 4 points
    Crawled over some cars today at a local 4x4 event. Made it all the way through Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  32. 4 points
    Been awhile since I've been on here. Truck is still alive and did some more maintenance like new wheel bearings, U joints for the front driveshaft and brake caliper. Also I was able to pick up some HID retrofits off a guy who was parting out his R50 with a ton of other goodies. After installing the retrofits the clear corners seemed off to me so I went ahead and used a heat gun to melt the glue to take them apart and painted the inside gloss black. Imo it looks a lot better Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  33. 4 points
    Based on the image you provided the splined portion of the axle shaft has completely come apart from the flexible joint, which also has a splined portion that remains in the hub, presumably with the outer snap ring in tact. You need open the hub, remove the outer snap ring then remove the flexible joint of the CV axle thats still attached to the back side of the hub. At that point you can assess if the inner snap ring has broken or there is any other damage which resulted in the CV axle coming apart.
  34. 4 points
    I love my O'Reilly lifetime warranty new axles (not remanufactured from old cores). They come fully greased and assembled with the outersnap ring. Before I installed my SFD, I was running 2" spacers and went through 3 CV axles for the price of 1 thanks to the warranty. Two of them due to CV bind and 1 to a ripped boot. They have worked great since fixing the suspension geometry and have seen lots of HD abuse with my 6" setup, a combination of towing and off road use. The lifetime warranty guarantees the axle for as long as you own the vehicle and its as simple as bringing in the old unit and swapping for the replacement. No hassle, no fuss and no shipping. The lifetime warranty from local parts stores on high wear parts is a great investment in my opinion.
  35. 3 points
    R200A and C200 gears are the same, excluding the R50 R200A versions. The note above mentions the NISMO gears, but the same was true for OE parts. I want to say there were 4.11 options in some oddball C200 axles found in Hardbody and Frontier trucks, but I’d have to dig around to be sure. Some Frontiers would have R200A+C200 setups, but the C200 did also appear in 2WD 4cyl AT Frontiers, but were 4.375. Notably, older Nissan AWD/RWD cars had R200 rear diffs, and I believe I’ve seen some guys swapping truck gears into their diffs with only trivial changes to pinion bearings perhaps. The cars would surely have 3.x ratios. That gets you the front gears, but still leaves you out of luck unless you are willing to swap in another rear axle.
  36. 3 points
    Goodies Finally all arrived!!!
  37. 3 points
    His rig is pretty sweet. I can’t wait to get him out on the trail. [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  38. 3 points
    Absolutely yes. The air box connects to the fender and on the other side has some tubes that go down a bit. I don't know how much of an issue it is with the stock bumper cover and wheel well liners intact, but if you get a custom bumper, you'll no longer have need for the front inner wheel well liners, and then the intake will be exposed and can easily take in water during a crossing - I know unfortunately. If you don't have the cash for a snorkel and want something better than stock you can eliminate the piping beneath the airbox and block off the hole in the bottom of the air box. Then cut a ~4" diameter hole in the top of the airbox and cover with some kind of mesh/expanded metal to keep large debris out. Now you'll have to be in water up to the hood to have an issue.
  39. 3 points
    Upgraded my windshield washer nozzles from 2 to 3 streams. The ones I got from the junkyard honestly match the fading paint on my hood better haha
  40. 3 points
    Just a little update to painting all the trim,handles,vents,tag housing etc Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  41. 3 points
    Probably the easiest, hassle free choice. While it may be repairable a new axle assembly will pop in fairly easily and quickly solving your problem all together. Afterwards by all means take apart the damaged axle and diagnose the problem, fix and keep it as a spare since both driver and passenger sides use the same part. Ive never seen an axle cleanly come apart at the joint like that. They tend to fail at the joint itself and have significant damage as a result so it would be beneficial for everyone to see what happened here.
  42. 3 points
    Successfully completed the Whipsaw trail on Canada Day Long Weekend. Land Cruisers, Tacos, 4Runners, and Jeeps getting stuck but not Pathfinder. Any Idea why the site says " You can only upload a total of 0MB."? How do I contact the admin? Thanks, Tomek EDIT - attempt off dropbox. Hope it's not too many pic for you guys! Sticking to just the Pathy ;)_ Hope you dig! I know we had a blast. If anyone of you want to make it up to BC and have a rip at it, hit me up! Friend's stuck Jeep Getting Ready to pull it out Made it up with some guidance some of the stuff we were up against Lost a left flare, but who cares, least of my worries!
  43. 3 points
    ALWAYS WITH ME Up Front: Bible Kahr Arms CW45 100 Rounds 45ACP Deodorant (Red Spice Fresh) Laser Pointer 3" Knife Business Cards Phone Charger Lighter In Back: Change of clothes (gym shorts, socks, underwear) 1 Gallon 5W30 1 Gallon SAE30 Turbine Oil (power steering or in emergency transmission) 1 Quart Brake Fluid 1 Gallon Distilled Water Can of Penetrating Oil Can of Copper Anti-seize Assortment of 30k# Nylon Slings Assortment of 15k# IWRC Wire Rope Slings 4 17k# Shackles 2 Snatch Blocks Small Tool Box (3/8" socket set, 6-19mm wrenchs, screw drivers, etc etc) 21mm Socket and Breaker Bar EXTRAS WHEN CAMPING In Back: Beretta Silver Pigeon Pump 12ga. 100 Shells 12ga. 100 Rounds 45ACP Chain Saw (STIHL) Axe Tent 5 Gallons Drinking Water Cheap Cooking Oil (for easy camp fire startup) Coffee Food
  44. 3 points
    Saturday I welded my exhaust back together.. it was extremely difficult! I had to turn the MIG all the way down to 14 volts and wire speed was at 85. I basically had to spot weld the crack all the way around until it was completely solid, then I drug the weld over the spots for larger surface area penetration. If I slowed down at all it’d blow a hole in the pipe instantly.
  45. 3 points
    I finally got around to doing a little bit of the painting on the trim of my 96 Pathy. 7 step process 1.Scuff, 2.clean, 3.prime(2 coats), 4.24 hour dry, 5.light scuff, 6.clean, 7. paint(at least 2 coats or more if so desired) Using 3m scuff pad, rust-oleum self etching primer, rust-oleum matte black paint (Custom Shop) clean rags, oil and grease remover. I painted the running boards on my 97 Q six months ago and they still look as good as the day I painted them. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  46. 3 points
    The idea is that because the tire carrier is two pieces, I'm going to introduce a 3rd piece that bolts in between. A crude sketch, of course, but the yellow lines represent 1" square tube that will space the tire mount (not shown in pic) off the carrier frame, and the green line can be another other tube (thinking 2" x 1" tube) that has whatever provisions I need for mounting things; i.e., hinges for a tray between carrier and liftgate, mounts for accessories beside (or potentially above) the tire. It'll give me easier mounting options without having to deal with the irregularities of the carrier frame, let alone have to make any further modifications to the carrier itself. The position would move the tire mount up, too (pic taken upside down), so that the stock holes on the mount line up with the new holes I drilled, and I just pass a 2" bolt and hardware through all of them: Ah, the genuine HF 10K tow hooks. They were integrated from the beginning, actually, with the mounting holes for them being incorporated into the bumper brackets (3/8"). I got one of them for maybe $2 because it was missing a bolt, and felt obligated to make use of a pair.
  47. 3 points
    Finally got around to bedlining the carrier, along with the bumpers and such. Not a fan of the color and will probably re-spray them, but I like the texture and finish. All the brackets and other hardware just received a flat black enamel, but everything is bed lined. Color was supposed to be Battleship Dark Gray, but a little too blue/green for my liking. While I had everything apart, I also drilled holes into the carrier frame about 2" higher than where the tire mount body attaches. The reason is that I plan to make a 1" sq. tube frame that will be sandwiched between the frame and tire mount that serves two purposes: 1) the tube frame will give me mounting points for various things (think fold down tray, telescoping work light mount, jerry can, Hi-Lift jack, etc.), and 2) will also allow me to move the tire mount 2" up and 1" out for a little more clearance if (when) moving up a tire size. I've not constructed anything yet, but eventually.
  48. 3 points
    Facelift step bars are not compatible with pre facelift. They have different mounts
  49. 3 points
    Had fun I did. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  50. 3 points
    Sliders can’t come soon enough. Found another cool trail in South Idaho today

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