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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    I snagged one today at a junkyard for $19 bucks, I couldn't pass that one up. Now time to clean it on up Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  2. 8 points
    So today I did a little more work on the r50. I started off by making the steering link to go from the steering wheel to the Jeep steering box. I sleeved it with some SUPER thick tube, and drilled holes in the tube so I could weld in the holes. Once all welded I Painted it black and installed it. Next I welded up the steering box reinforcement plates I had a custom power steering line made at the "local" hydraulic shop. Runs from the r50 power steering pump to the Jeep steering box. The return line I just used hose clamps for, as that is what the original used on the jeep. I have to make a little retainer bracket to hold the "loop end" of the hose, so its not swinging around or rubbing onto anything. Ill bolt it onto one of the oil pan bolts. I rolled the axle underneath the car for the first time! as it sits, i'm content with how well things are lined up. I make a cardboard template for the trackbar bracket, but forgot to take a picture. More than likely ill get that all welded up and installed tomorrow. https://imgur.com/a/BuJnL26 Things left to do: cut out the trackbar bracket and weld it on, make/buy longer trackbar, weld on 4 link brackets, weld up 4 links, make coil buckets & frame reinforcements in that area, install custom brake lines & purge system. probably missing some stuff here and there, but its been a long week lol ALSO sorry that these pictures have been coming up sideways and upside down.... I haven't any idea how to fix that. Ill try a different website next time to get picture into a URL form. Pictures are too large to use the "drag files here to attach , or choose file" option. Sorry!
  3. 7 points
    Can I use the 'Report' function to report admins who seem to be slacking on their duties or are just too damned lazy to cleanout their inboxes?
  4. 7 points
  5. 6 points
    Hello, My name is Johann and here is what I've been up to lately (SAS). I've been collecting parts for the swap for close to two years now. Mostly waiting on good deals on parts and tools. Recently I was gifted a motor picker, and that was one of the last tools I needed to start the swap. So about 4 days ago, it began. A few months ago I bought a 97 pathfinder for 300$US. It had shot wheel bearings up front, and as expected, very worn down suspension components up front. The ad had no pictures so I had no idea what i was going to go look at... As soon as I saw that is had a steel bumper, I knew I was buying it. Its a manual, and runs fine, other than suspension issues up front, which made it the perfect candidate for the SAS I've wanted to do for years. So soon after i acquired a hilux snorkel for free and mounted it to the r50 A few days ago I moved the big pathy (my green one) out of the shed, laid down some wood, and backed up the white one to be stripped down. It took about 5 hours, but I got the car way up on jacks (the jacks are welded to the rims and tires are flat) and removed the entire subframe. That subframe is WAY heavier than I thought! So the subframe is what holds the motor up, so to remove the subframe, I put a thick strap around the motor, and a jack under it (to hold it in place). Next I got the motor mounts I made and temporarily installed them to make sure they fit. I then decided that the frame was going to get reinforced anywhere that something was getting added. so I added a piece of steel behind it. These motor mounts were then welded in. I then did the same exact thing on the other side Once they were welded in, the motor was now being held up with no subframe! This was the hardest part so far because there was barely any space under the car with the jack in the way. Now with the jack out from under the car and with more space, I started cutting and removing all the old steering stuff. everything from the firewall up was removed. there are two little brackets holding the original steering bend box (90*, not sure the specific name for it). I cut those out with a reciprocating saw. once all the old was out of the way, I ground the "frame" down to raw metal (where the new jeep steering box would go) when I went to mom up the steering box, it wouldn't fit because the wheel well was blocking the back end from sitting on the rail, so I eyeballed it and cut a slot into the well to allow the box to sit. Once up, I mocked up some steel reinforcement plates to the frame, drilled them & the frame, and temporarily bolted up the box to make sure everything fit. Tomorrow the box will come back out so I can trim the reinforcement plates up to size better. Once they are trimmed up, the box will be mounted, plates tacked in, box removed and the rest of the plate will be welded in. I started tinkering with the shaft connecting the wheel to the steering box and am debating on how I am going to splice them together. Probably will cut to length, weld, sleeve, then weld the sleeve to both ends. Any better ideas? the left one is the jeep one, the right is the stock one. I need to connect the top piece from the left one (goes onto the steering box) with the bottom of the right one (goes into end of steering on r50)
  6. 6 points
    My 99.5 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 6 points
  8. 6 points
    I just wanted to take a minute to say how nice it is to see you still hanging out in NPORA. You always have nice contributions & it’s great you’ve stuck around to continue to lend your knowledge & experience to the group!
  9. 5 points
    The turn only condition seems like the wheel bearings. The pulsing is a pretty standard symptom of warped rotors. To check the wheel bearings jack up the front to get the tires off the ground, place it on stands and alternate pulling/pushing on the 12 and 6 o'clock positions of the tires. If you feel any play or clunking its likely a wheel bearing If the rotors still have enough material to be turned that can be the cheapest option to cure pulses but I believe (not entirely sure) the pads need to be replaced at the same time becuase they will have worn to fit the irregular rotors
  10. 5 points
    I'd try spraying some Kroil or PB Blaster on them, then repeatedly tap the bolt for a couple minutes,then try. If that doesn't work, with a hose handy you could try putting a propane torch to them for about 15 seconds and then quenching them. Can repeat a couple of times. You could also try an impact driver. If you have an air compressor, you can get the driver cheap at Harbor Freight. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  11. 5 points
    Go to a different inspector that knows his arse from a hole in the ground.
  12. 5 points
    Explorin' a bit on Christmas Day. New here, thanks for all the help with the amount of info available on the R50, unlike anywhere else!
  13. 5 points
    Alright. I've been ordering parts this weekend (I'm realizing that tubing, wire, switches, relays, and diodes add up... *sigh*), and hopefully I'll put together a high resolution diagram for you all.
  14. 5 points
    Add one more to the successful Land Rover Defender spring install, here's my numbers: Rear: Spring - Land Rover NRC9446 from LRDirect for $77.27 shipped to WA Shock - KYB OEM replacement P/N 343379 from RockAuto Front: Strut - KYB OEM replacement P/N 335031 and 335030 from RockAuto Strut mount/bearing/boot - KYB OEM replacement P/N SM5329 from RockAuto Spring - ARB 2928 Old Man Emu Coil Spring P/N 2928 from Amazon Sagging suspension: RR: 31.25" (FSM spec: 33.31") RL: 30.5" FR: 32" (FSM spec: 32.09") FL: 31.25" Rake: -0.75" (FSM spec: 1.22") New suspension: RR: 34.875" RL: 34.5" FR: 33.25" FL: 33.25" Rake: 1.44" Note: I had a shop assemble the front struts with the OME HD springs due to the increased compression required and subsequent sketchiness factor.
  15. 4 points
    Loaded the bikes and some people up and went for a ride yesterday, the weather was amazing. After riding on the AC springs in the rear for a few weeks I love how they ride. They are definitely very stiff but I enjoy it, especially when loaded up the springs sat level, and that was with the bike rack, 4 bikes, and 4 people in the truck. Really enjoying the better handling as well!
  16. 4 points
    Christchurch New Zealand (although I can be found between Queenstown, Dunedin & Chch usually). If you're ever over here be prepared to see a LOT of R50s - because they're basically all diesels and as such are practically unkillable. The TD/QD series engines are some of the most reliable ever made IMO. Known for doing half a million+ kms on basic maintenance alone. The rest of the R50 usually falls to bits before the engine haha. I've even seen numerous late-model R50s with blown ZD30s that have been QD32 swapped. Fuse box cover Fuse box insides HID relay box cover HID relay And a shot of the factory twin-battery HID-equipped QD32ETI engine bay... It's very busy and actually quite cramped to work on. Changing the HID bulb - nightmarish.
  17. 4 points
    I'll mirror RainGoat's sentiment and to build on that I would like to say, on behalf of all of NPORA's member base and staff alike, that your dedication and contributions are sincerely appreciated!
  18. 4 points
    My 03 LE Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. 4 points
    Parts companies to avoid: Dorman, mevotech, cardone, moog (used to be good but now is crap). If I have to get aftermarket I try and use beck/arnley as half the time it’s an oem looking part in the box. Or ACDelco as their parts are usually okay. Ive never had a bad oem part from Nissan, or VW for my golf. The way I look at it is, if it’s something that will leave me stranded, I’m willing to pay the extra cost for the part that lasted 20+ years. Just been my experience working on cars for 15 years and owing a pathfinder for 14 of those.
  20. 4 points
    Merry Christmas peeps, and wish the best for your New Years!
  21. 4 points
    Pages 10 and 11 of the FE section of the '03 manual have diagrams of the exhaust system showing all of the components. You can download the '03 manual here. The manual doesn't label the resonators for some reason but shows the TWCs (three-way catalysts) bolted to the manifolds as the only cats in the system. The parts diagram here shows them as present, but doesn't say what they are. This thread says they're just resonators, and suggests that Nissan didn't make them right (there's a shock) and then came up with a half-assed "fix" to slap on when they failed (this seems to be a pattern). This thread also talks about whether or not they're cats, and the last poster had a link to the actual part. +1 for finding an inspector who's not a halfwit. Wouldn't hurt to have the diagrams on your phone or something in case the next guy's also an idiot.
  22. 4 points
    Finally had some free time so I just drove on some forest roads, and I low key like the moon dust grey [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  23. 4 points
  24. 3 points
    Next step was drilling the air fill hole into the body of the housing. Once the hole was drilled and threaded we placed in the arb unit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. 3 points
    Honestly my info isn’t in black and white anywhere.. at all... which I think is absolutely ridiculous. What’s more ridiculous is that California mandates entirely separate emissions standards than the rest of the entire USA. I could rattle on in the likes of a novel here but I won’t. The FSM calls the cats nearest to the engine “warm up” cats. I can’t find it to save my life now, and it was probably anecdotal anyway, but I read that CA emission laws require the catalyst system to have the nox output in a certain range by a certain time while the vehicle is still warming up. Then there’s the two different configurations and you can see which you have by whether or not your catalyst tag under the hood says California approved or not. *you can also see here in this pic that it says “2TWC(2)” which is 2 three way catalysts multiplied by two banks for a total of 4 cats on CA approved models* Here are the two separate diagrams: NizmoGizmo, show that guy the tag under your hood that clearly says you have 4 cats. If he doesn’t accept that then definitely go to the dealership and ask them for some kind of document you can bring to the inspector. That 445005 cat you linked says CARB compliant and if you can prove your supposed to have a cat there to begin with then you should be okay even though it is aftermarket. Edit: and if he doesn’t accept that either then cut the things out of there and blow extra emissions into his hippie nostrils on your way out, certification in hand. However... if you later get an inspector that is familiar with Pathfinders then you’re gonna have to cut the straight pipes right back out and install the cats all over again.

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