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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/30/2020 in all areas

  1. 9 points
  2. 6 points
    Pathy got me into some powder this week trying for a last minute solo elk hunt. Sea of orange meant I had to look for super remote forest roads to get lost and then hike in. No luck this time but had fun anyway. I’m still amazed how these trucks can just fire right up with no complaints after being parked for days at 11,000 feet in 5 degree weather. But she does need a good bath now.
  3. 6 points
  4. 6 points
  5. 5 points
    Ran rug road to turkey creek this week, what an incredible trail and area!!
  6. 4 points
  7. 4 points
    You know me, I get carried away.
  8. 4 points
    If you install the 2" spacers, you could potentially have binding issues with the front CV axles while the wheels are off the ground. This side-effect seems to be influenced by the particular brand of CV axle on your vehicle. The best way to confirm whether you have binding or not is to install the spacers, then rotate the front wheels (with hubs locked) by hand and feel for any resistance or binding in the inner or outer CV joints. If there isn't, you're probably OK. If there is binding, you may damage the CV axles on any type of terrain that might cause either front wheel to max out the suspension travel. Therefore, avoid such terrain. Also, another common side-effect of 2" spacers is extreme positive camber, which may be correctable with camber bolts. After installation of the spacers, you'll need an alignment.
  9. 4 points
    A little before and after. Cleaned up the rig from last weekends trail run with @RainGoat
  10. 4 points
  11. 4 points
    Wireless charging experiment: For whatever reason, my 02 LE doesn't come with that third cupholder the 03 models have. The flat spot has always just been the instinctive place I toss my phone. Its within reach, visible and it doesn't slide or bounce out of that spot. I've always wanted to give wireless charging a shot, so here's what I did. Picked up a tri coil Qi wireless charger from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07176HT5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bought a 104F thermal cut off switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PK6892Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Generic 12v USB phone charger Generic wire harness plug Auto/Cancel power seat switch from salvaged LE R50 Wireless coil attached to plastic insert by jb weld Wireless coil fed by modified micro USB wire with thermal cut off switch spliced in. Modified micro USB wire connected to generic wire harness plug The other side of the wire harness plug is tapped into the 12v power socket on the dash in a parallel fashion. Blank plate on the dash has been swapped with the Auto/Cancel power seat switch. (acetone removed some of the seat graphic) Auto/cancel breaks the circuit. My experience with it has been decent so far. I'm using an iPhone Se 2020 edition with a silicone case and the phone is still able to charge. The phone has never had a chance to overheat since the thermal cutoff switch steps in really early. I had apparently made a miscalculation from Celsius for Fahrenheit. I thought initially, it would kill the circuit around 130F. Dry days with temps in the 30 (f) the charger seems to continuously charge unless I'm parked and idling a bunch. It will continuously charge in the 40s (F) on rainy days. It appears the heat is more from the engine/drivetrain and exhaust than from the wireless charging circuit. I can run maps continuously on the phone and the charger seems to be able to keep up with that. Being that winter is coming upon us, I'll leave the thermal cutoff switch in for now, and think about getting a different in the spring.
  12. 3 points
    Welcome @jessrob. Bearer of bad news here: Max lift the truck can support without an SFD (subframe drop) is 2", accomplished with lift springs (OME, AC) or strut spacers. The use of spacers may lead to busted CVs, depending on your setup. SFD allows for more lift, which allows for up to about 6" total lift, but they are custom parts. There are practically no performance bolt-ons for our truck except a K&N filter. No intakes, no headers, no tuners. Our VQ35DE shares virtually nothing with other VQ35DE-equipped cars. Anything you do here will be custom. The last statement also applies to exhaust. The truck is fairly capable and underrated, but there's no aftermarket for it. That's not to say things can't be upgraded. Lift is the most readily-achievable goal; OME has a great product in both springs and struts/shocks. I'd advise sifting around the forum a bit more to learn about lift options and SFDs.
  13. 3 points
    @TheGhost Since you have the MT, we can clear up the diagram on EL-86 a little, but I also think we're dealing with a couple small discrepancies. Keep in mind a lot of these diagrams also show items you might not see on your truck. Here's the breakdown of EL-86, with the bold harnesses IDs being what you should expect to see on your truck: 1E = Typo #1. It says "M/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 76M is for "VG30E engine A/T model". EL-44 shows 1E as having 6 wires for AT, and you've indicated there's 8 wires. So, this won't be on your truck. See 5E. 2E = "Back-up lamp switch", found on MT-33 as "Reverse lamp switch" on the OD gear case. EL-30 says it has white/black and red/black wires and confirms as using harness 2E, and that harness 5E has 8 wires. The inhibitor switch on an AT provides the reverse signal, which is likely why 1E is 6-wire. 3E = "Neutral position switch", also on MT-33 by the same name, also on the OD gear case. As such, this is the neutral switch for the transmission. More on this later... 4E = "Transfer switch" aka "4wd switch", per EL-44. This should be your rear-most sensor, or "Transfer Switch #2" in your sketch. In the picture you last uploaded, I believe the harness circled in green needs to be connected to the open harness in your hand given the yellow and black wires indicated on EL-44. (The picture's too small for me to assert much, though.) EL-44 also confirms that 4E is for MT, but does not show an expected 6E harness label by the AT switch. 5E = Typo #2; says "4WD A/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 78M for "VG30E engine M/T model". Everything else has so far confirmed this should be an 8-wire harness on MT trucks. 6E = I suspect this is the correct harness for the AT Transfer Switch, but the diagram is wrong in indicating that it's two harnesses. 7E (AT) & 8E (MT) = These Vehicle Speed Sensors won't be mistaken as switches...they'll have a cylindrical body coming off them. Wires will be red and white Given the various EL diagrams, these appear to be the pins for 5E (note that the numbers from the terminal side, so they might be reversed depending on how you're looking at it): 1 - white/black (2E - Back up light switch) 2 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?) 3 - yellow (4E - Transfer/4WD Switch) 4 - red (8E - VSS ) 5 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?) 6 - red/black (2E - Back up light switch) 7 - black (4E - Transfer/4wd Switch) 8 - white (8E - VSS) Now, about that neutral switch...or "switches", since I suspect (expect?) both AT and MT models to possibly have both. For sure, there's a neutral position switch on the transmission, either a dedicated switch the MT, or part of the inhibitor switch on the AT. TF-9 shows a switch, and in a different position than MT-33, so I presume it to be a separate switch, but I'm just not seeing proof anywhere...I can't find any circuit diagram that includes it. Normally I'd expect these switches to be covered in the EL - Warning Lamps section because they'd be used to warn of an unsafe condition, such as leaving the t-case in neutral while the transmission was in park (AT) or neutral (AT or MT)...the vehicle can roll. This condition triggers the "ATP" lamp, and while I don't see any mention of it, there is one illustration that suggests it's there. To that extent, I can't find much that covers the MT transmission's NPS circuit, except in the SMJ/"foldout" diagram, though I at least expected to see it as a trigger for deactivating the cruise control, but nothing there. Anywho....more pictures would help, though since 75% of the 5E can be identified, hopefully that's some process of elimination.
  14. 3 points
    +1 on timken and using a brass punch/rod to knock the races out. I used the old races and big sockets to hammer the new races in. Pretty cheap on rockauto, think I paid around $80 for all four.
  15. 3 points
    No thread. Just open the light, pull the lens and take it down to your local Tap Plastics. They can size it to the existing piece you have and cut it right there on the spot. If you prefer to do it yourself just find a high quality polycarbonate in your choice of color and cut to size. Just make sure to reseal it or you'll have water intrusion.
  16. 2 points
    its good to be back in Idaho for the holidays!
  17. 2 points
    But you don't really need a 4" lift. With a 2" spring lift in the front and 33" tyres, I have 350 mm clearance under both diffs, which is really plenty. I've not needed any more than that.
  18. 2 points
    Been driving in Colorado now for around 5 years with no corrosion issues so far. Before moving here I did some minor undercoating, but nothing too extensive. I have heard that the magnesium chloride is definitely worse than salt though. It won’t rust out your truck instantly but probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to spray down the undercarriage a few times while visiting
  19. 2 points
    Post history shows you’ve already started a thread on this exact question in April and got great answers......
  20. 2 points
    There are soooo many resources on this topic. Look around this forum and you will find countless posts with the answers you’re looking for. here’s a great video explaining some basics: https://youtu.be/d0weBe8J58s
  21. 2 points
    @hawairish I just wish you’d be more precise & specific [emoji16]. Always a pleasure to read!
  22. 2 points
    Just heard from the Dealer. they found out one of the pins in the ecm were bent, after straightening it and plugging it back in started right up. finally some good news today. will be picking it up after work. thanks alot for all the help. will report back on how everything goes.
  23. 2 points
    Mine was exquisitely cared for but I didn’t know about this. Lost my 5th screw & the 2nd on one of the butterfly valves before it cost me an engine at 15yrs & 102,000. For 2-3* work or labor cost, I wish I would have known.
  24. 2 points
    Check for mice/rat intrusion Sent from my Pathfinder
  25. 2 points
    Oil leak that looks like its coming from the rear main seal. Low oil pressure. Air conditioning not working. Power steering leak.
  26. 2 points
    So a bunch of things happened this past week. Let me start with the fact that I went to Pronghorn Trail to check out that steep hill... but from the ascending side. It is much much steeper than it looks in any picture or video. I've learned that this distortion of perspective is a common theme with trail shots. Long story short, the stupid side of me decided to try this rocky hill a couple times during this "scouting" trip (smh). I ended up with a small gouge on my rim and a long trip home with my tail between my legs. The guy in the Cherokee watching me was trying to talk me into some pretty ballsy lines. I didn't listen to him, I just didn't wanna keep trying with my ripped balljoint boots. I ended up talking to the guy about trucks for a while before I left, cool guy. I'll be back Pronghorn *shakes fist*. I changed my balljoints today as well. Thanks to Xplorx4 for the easy writeup. The other day I went to Rowher Flats OHV Park in Agua Dulce, CA. The place is pretty cool, I went exploring and found 2 random trails off the Vasquez Truck Trail. One was Lookout Trail, a double black diamond rating. I drove up to the first climb checked it out and turned around. Again, the pic doesn't do it justice. It's definitely close to 45 degrees realistically, and like most trails in this area, the majority of the roads are comprised of dirt and giant rock slabs. It's a little dusty right now but after it dries from a good rain there should be lots of grip. If anyone thinks they can tackle this, feel free to come down. A good front locker would probably do the trick, I'd be happy to show you to it lol. The second trail I spotted is Rowher Trail, the South side. It has a single black diamond rating. Its a very straightforward trail, not very difficult in terms of vehicle requirements but the road itself is pretty dangerous. It's a constant series of steep climbs with small straightaways in between and steep drop-offs on both sides the whole way. I read a story about three 19yo's in a Samurai trying to drive the trail after sunset, they made a wrong turn, drove off the steep embankment and rolled multiple times. Only the driver survived, his sister and friend both perished in the fall. It's a grim reminder that these places aren't theme parks and they should be taken seriously. With that being said, I feel like if I make sure the truck is in good working order before I try it, she should be able to make the climb. Definitely don't wanna do this one alone and definitely going to do it during the day. Here's a link to a video of this trail. Also, the guy at Pronghorn told me about Millers jeep trail in neighboring Los Padres Forest. It's located in Frazier Mtn. I did my research and guess what?!? It closes from Nov-Mar. every year... I have 2 days to go lol. Pretty sure the Finder can handle this one too. Man... I need to join or start a 4x4 club or something.
  27. 2 points
  28. 1 point
    Our unibody trucks have all of the following components mounted to a front subframe: suspension (lower control arm + MacPherson strut) steering (rack and pinion) drivetrain (front differential) motor mounts A subframe drop uses a series of spacers to separate the subframe from the chassis and motor. You gain lift without replacing any individual suspension components, just by moving the subframe away from the chassis. Typical SFD sizes are 3" and 4" and do not require other suspension part upgrades, but you can use lift springs in conjunction with it...that's where the 6" total lift comes from (i.e., 4" SFD + 2" lift springs). Our CVs are near their maximum operating angles with only 2" of conventional lift; anything more risks busting CVs. (Note that springs alone can't cause broken CVs.) An SFD is essential/required if you want more than 2" of lift because it assures CVs can be kept within their operating angles. Also, an SFD only addresses the front suspension. For the rear suspension, OME and AC have 2" springs for non-SFD applications. Beyond that, there's an array of LR springs that are good for up to 4", as well as spacers.
  29. 1 point
    I think the best tire all around for the stock LE rims would be a 33” 10.5 wide with 1 inch spacers all around. You’d still be able to tuck the rears, have a decent stance, and good contact patch but not too wide that you’d need wider rims
  30. 1 point
    Been done once that I'm aware of: The guy who did it (@tmorgan4), and the guy who last owned it (@GrandpaX) haven't been on for a while.
  31. 1 point
    When you get to a do it yourself car wash just spray liberally all over. Have been driving around Montana roads with salt and other with no real rust issues. Be sure to clean up over rear tire fenders and there is a spot just in front of rear tires that holds mud and dirt. Spray lots.
  32. 1 point
    If you have the energy, you could change the whole diff out for a factory LSD far cheaper than buying a locker, although it is hard to find a low mile, tight LSD nowadays. I'm doing the same to mine, which also has an open rear.
  33. 1 point
    I'm pretty sure that the front is an R200, super common on S13's, GTRs, 180's, 240's as a rear diff so there are lockers for the front and lots of regular people have installed them.... the H233 rear is another thing. Not that it isn't available.... ( https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/19851995-wd21-pathfinder-mechanical-locker-c-38_1321_1208.html ).... but installs are a lot less common, as are any setup and fitment issues that might be present.
  34. 1 point
    You can just cut off the old clamp if you like. I've done it to both connectors on mine. Just try not to let falling copper wire strands fall down on to the alternator.
  35. 1 point
    I tried to fit my 235/85/16 and there isn’t nearly enough clearance. My hitch has been replaced with a smittybilt Jeep bumper though so I can’t really say whether it may have worked originally I was bummed because it would have been nice to always have two full size spares. Planning to use that space for a reserve tank in the future though because it’s just too good to waste. Almost found a way to fit traction boards under there but it’s a little too tight
  36. 1 point
    Running for a few seconds when you turn the key on sounds like normal fuel pump behavior. The pump's at the bottom of the pump/sender unit, and it's probably soft-mounted to reduce the noise transmitted to the body, so not feeling it running may not indicate a problem. If you want to confirm that it's running, pull the fuel pump fuse and see if it still makes the noise when you turn the key. If the pump is running, but fuel isn't flowing, it could be blocked somewhere (seems unlikely it would be completely blocked) or just out of gas. I'd add a few gallons, cycle the key a few times, and see if that gets it moving fuel. If that doesn't do it, disconnect the fuel line from the pump to see if there's a blockage between the pump and the first line you unhooked, and if there's still nothing, pull the pump and check for a blocked pickup sock, bad hose above the pump, something along those lines.
  37. 1 point
    Pictures don’t do it justice. I’ve been behind & in front of all iterations - especially as we’ve started to make it our practice to run with lights on for safety due to the congestion on trails these days & the occasional idiot tearing down a trail in a Side by Side (SxS). This last version turned out great. It’s really rich & full. It was also economical - I’ll be following suit.
  38. 1 point
    Just to say Me and wastebook are not friends. I am banned for life. They really do not like it when You get the courts involved !
  39. 1 point
    Dang, that's a steal! I'll definetely have to look into those. Been considering getting a second set of wheels with more rugged tires to swap out for trails and harsh winters, but stock '99.5 SE wheels are almost impossible to find here in the midwest due to the rarity of any sort of R50s in the rust belt. And we have an abundance of 4Runners with TRD Pro wheels I actually found a half decent '00 SE with the same stock wheels at a junk lot a while back, but I took too long to jump on it and the whole vehicle had sold within days (which is probably for the best, it had a little body damage but was running perfectly fine and probably shouldn't have been junked anyway). Since then I've been looking at some other various wheels from similar vehicles that might look good on the old girl and that would be easier to find and much cheaper. I've also considered those same FJ wheels before (a buddy of mine has an '11 FJ Cruiser and he let me try his spare stock wheels on the Pathy for a little while) but they looked a little off on my truck for some reason.
  40. 1 point
    I am here for both! This Pathfinder fell in My lap and is to nice to crush! I am not a Nissan Guy as You can probably tell By My name. But if it runs on dead dinosaurs and sits on rubber I hate to see it go to the crusher. I am not sure how I can contribute but I have had a box full of tools and a lost 10mm since I could walk. If I can pass this on to a person that will love and treat it like a red headed step child than I feel My place is good.
  41. 1 point
    Hey bro I've got a 92 SE and have that pipe off right now. Measured the pipe and it's 1.5" ID. My hose is pretty soft but it looks like a "stretched" 1.625 inches. Rock auto sells it by the foot: Gates 24026 I can try and upload pics if you like, might be easier if I dm them or something
  42. 1 point
    Welcome! This needs to be on your ToDo list: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1
  43. 1 point
    Hello all. This is all very new to me so excuse me if I'm not in the right spot. I wanted to share my 1990 Nissan Pathfinder SE V6 with the Sport Package. I bought this from the estate of the original owner a while back and I think that it's pretty special. The original owner was a single lady who purchased it new in Phoenix AZ and always kept it garaged at the same home for it's entire life. It has just over 51,000 original miles on it and being in AZ, it has no rust whatsoever. It's stunningly original throughout with virtually no wear on the interior and a most excellent exterior. It even has the original floor mats and has never been smoked in. The original owner was OCD about this vehicle and had every bit of maintenance and repair documented and included her own notes (I have files of the stuff). I even have the original window sticker, cancelled check used to buy it, original spare cover and the dealership promo brochures. It had been sitting for a few years so I had it towed to my mechanic and had everything gone through front to back to put it into "daily driver" condition. I wanted to be able to take it anywhere, even off-road without a second thought so I really had it gone through. I replaced all fluids including differentials and coolant, timing belt and water pump, u-joints on rear drive shaft, new drive belts, shocks, muffler and tailpipe, battery and even the gas struts on the rear hatch and window. Absolutely everything works including the AC. There was always a dash-mat on the dash so it's perfect too. I put 4 brand new BF Goodrich KO2's on it and it had the optional 31X10 5R15 tires originally. The sport package includes 15" alloy wheels and tires, glass flip-up sunroof with shade, limited slip differential, rear disk brakes, outside tire carrier, wheel locks, fog lights, fender flairs and running boards. The transfer case had a small leak and the original owner tried to address it at one point. I determined that there was a tiny crack so I sourced a transfer case in AZ that came from the same year Pathfinder that had 101K original miles and had it installed. I'm as obsessive as the original owner and none of my vehicles leak anything....ever. This is probably the only one like it anywhere. People drove these things like trucks so to find one so well preserved is pretty rare I guess. I didn't slick it up, polish hoses or shine the interior. It was so clean, that I vacuumed and washed it and did a quick polish to protect the paint. It's about as honest as a 30 year old vehicle gets. So, I'm really happy to have this gem of a truck but it doesn't get hardly any use. It seems too nice to take off road so I drive it sometimes for pleasure but I'm not sure what I'll do with it ultimately. Sometimes I think that it should have a home with someone who will use it more often. I use my other rides for off road, camping etc. I have a 2006 Toyota Sequoia 4X4 with 151,000 miles and a 2005 Toyota 4Runner SR5 with 70,000 original miles. It has a nice home in my garage and maybe it will get out more now that the weather is getting cooler in AZ. I've posted a link to my photos. Hope that you enjoy them and find my "one of a kind" Pathy interesting and fun to look at. https://imgur.com/a/84YV7Xm
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    It's really straightforward. Once you get the skidplate off it's pretty obvious what hose goes where
  46. 1 point
    You definitely need a full size spare. The roof’s a bitch. While they’re nice on back, you’re probably fine with it in it’s OEM location - I’ve done that for 18yrs. I tried the roof a bit but it was just too much of a PITA. I have a swingate but haven’t bothered to mount it yet - I really want it most for the Trasheroo. Honestly, while I find the price offensive, the Wilco Hitchgate (or more atrociously priced RIGd) work very well if they fit. The best part is that you can take it off when you’re not wheeling making hatch access easier for regular use & it’s way lighter than a bumper. If buying new, I’d get the high clearance but if used, the normal clearance would be fine. I had one with the HiLift & Rotopax mount plus a new HiLift Jack for $500 but was stupid enough to let it go since it didn’t fit in my Pathy OEM receiver (boxed end too short). I will buy that or a RIGd used for my 2018 4Runner. (BTW, there’s also the DeTours (https://detoursofmaine.com/ https://trail4runner.com/2019/05/04/detours-knucklebone-tire-carrier-review/ ) & non-mobile Curtis 31006 $70 You will have to relocate & light the plate with any of these options. Here’s way too much info: RIGd https://www.rigdsupply.com/products/ultraswing-hitch-carrier https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/267339-rigd-supply-ultraswing-tire-carrier.html https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/273089-rigid-ultraswing-5th-gen-4runner-anyone-using.html Wilco https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/263097-wilco-tire-hitch-mount.html https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/259162-wilco-hitchgate.html https://trail4runner.com/2020/07/14/wilco-hitchgate-solo-hi-clearance-5th-gen-4runner/
  47. 1 point
    Awesome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  48. 1 point
    A few months back i had to move my pathy out of storage and up to my shop so i can work on it as it had been sitting for a few years maybe more with out being ran or even touched. When we got there it had over heated so bad you could feel it inside the cab. The coolant had disappeared totally... The next day we had filled the engine with water and ran it for a good half hour or more and it didnt even lose a drop. All is good now. It runs and it doesnt over heat. BUTTTTT. The system does not pressurize. I have not had too much with engines to know if all systems will pressurize or not. The vehicle does not over heat as it runs flawless and the coolant gauge shows half way when it has been running for a while. The top rad hose gets extremely hot to the touch (as i think it should) but i can squeeze it like nothing. Almost as if there is nothing in there even when its cold. Is it supposed to be this soft or is it supposed to be more firm? Also opn a side note a little away from topic. This shouldnt be a big issue but when ever i press the gas and let off of it, as the rpms go down it almost jumped up 1 line to about 1200 from 1100 then it idles. Is that normal or is that just something small that doesnt need attention?
  49. 1 point
    I recently completed installing Warn 29091 Premium Locking Hubs on my bone stock 2002 Pathfinder SE. I recieved a lot of good information from these boards when I was doing my research befere hand. It seemed appropriate to share the outcome with the boards since they were such a great resource for me. I hope this helps someone make the swap more easily! The procedure was much easier than i assumed it would be. Once the vehicle is off the ground and the rim is off it's clear to see what needs to be done. There are 6 nuts holding the stock, permanatly locked hub. Remove those nuts and get the stock hub off. Mine was a mess from a sloppy brake job done by a "professional" a few years back. Now tha the hub is off you need to replace the studs. The factory ones are not long enough...I tried to use them, believe me! Look at the length difference in the pic. Once the studs are changed install the 29091's according to the instructions. They pretty much slide on as 2 pieces: the housing is held on by nuts to the studs and the switch/cover is held in place with Hex Bolts. Take a few sconds to lock and unlock them, makes sure they "click" like they should when changing settings and that when unlocked the drive axel does not spin when you turn the rotor. With the locker installed and the rim back on, it looks like the pics below. The factory plastic Nissan-logo hub covers DO NOT fit over the Warn 29091's. I simply took a Dremel and cut the center out of the factory plastic covers to make a hole for the Warn switch to come through. It doesn't look much different from stock... I just finished this work the other day and have only made it throught a tank of gas with the new hubs in place. Running around town I got a almost 3 more MPG with the hubs turned off off. I'm about to take a 2200 mile trip, I'll update with the new milage after that. I hope this helps someone take the plunge...even if it IS from a newbie to the boards! Cheers!!
  50. 1 point
    Traditional is the general rule of thumb but our FSMs actually DO state LSV first (when applicable) the LR-RR-LF-RF. Trust me it's fresh in my head from attempting to explain it to someone (even posting a pic I personally took out of my FSM of the directions and on my own checked a bleed sequence book printed by Wagner AND checked Mitchel OnDemand). On a RHD truck though it may be reversed to RR-LR-RF-LF due to the master cyl. being on the opposite side of te firewall. Do I know why it's backwards from normal order? Nope, all I can do is repeat what has been written as correct.

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