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  1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    9 points
  2. Not perfect, but works.. And i found and check little crack. I think that all this construction need more stiffness, cause sometimes i have shimmy
    7 points
  3. of the weekend in pinamar beach, buenos aires, argentina
    6 points
  4. It looks GREAT in person. This was just one of the many shuttle runs we’ve done between Portland & Seattle to exchange parts. Here, @02_Pathy donated his old Falkens to me when he upsized on his rig. Watching him drive away, I can’t help but think it’s probably the best looking R50 out there!
    4 points
  5. A new addition to the barn this summer - these are day of sale pics. My goal had been a clone of my Pathy for eventual total parts interchangability or in house donor. An ‘02 would also get me the best OEM LS & a cabled throttle. I only had a limited time to purchase & overhaul it before it would be out of town for a year or so. [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] spotted this one & a month later we had inspected it and I bought it. It’s the exact same exterior color & built just one month after my Pathy. The tan interior doesn’t match my Pathy & all my spares - plus it will make it harder to obscure gear left in the truck - but overall, I’m happy to have it. Only 123K & once we maintenance it & freshen the suspension, it should last a long time. Let the overhaul & modding begin! Many thanks to [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] who has been heavily involved in every step of this process. As you can see - I didn’t even get it home before we’d removed the brushgaurds & he’d polished the headlights back to clarity.
    4 points
  6. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    4 points
  7. Hello again as it has been awhile. Well did another upgrade/maintenance to the pathy by adding a bumper that most likely not a whole lot of people have heard about. It’s not an ARB although it is very similar but it’s a MCC 4x4 Falcon Bull Bar 702-02. I think this bumper looks fantastic on the rig and that the updated fog lights they put on the bumper match my retro fits which make the aesthetics that much better to me IMO. This bumper was literally a direct bolt on and didn’t have to modify anything besides the fender liners which I then attached to the bumper so I could keep some stuff out of the air box inlet and other components. I then added some Ironman 4x4 Spot lights which are pretty darn bright and have some good range on them as well. The bumper is ADR compliant and airbag compatible which is nice as well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    4 points
  8. Featured on @PathyDude17's YouTube Channel!
    3 points
  9. I didn't touch motor mounts. They are the same. And no more crossmembers exclude panhard tower.. That's problem, i think. Subframe is more stiff construction. I'd like to see another similar project))
    2 points
  10. Super easy mod but maybe this is helpful to the community for those with the non-motorized antenna. I was a little annoyed at the huge factory antenna getting caught and rattling around on branches in narrow trails. Started looking around for options but I wasn’t able to find any aftermarket short antennas listed for R50’s but came across the Nissan USA parts site and was able to figure out that we share the part # with Frontiers (and some other models). I went ahead and ordered this unit - https://www.cravenspeed.com/the-original-stubby-antenna-for-1998-2019-nissan-frontier/ and it fits great. They are a local company to me, it’s a USA made part and their customer service has been very helpful. Looks great I think, and seems like a well made unit. Reception seems fine in town, although I'm sure there is an overall reception trade-off. That being said the Pathfinder isn't my daily so this is definitely an improvement for my use case. Nice little easy and cheap mod in my book.
    2 points
  11. Sorry for not responding quick enough as I was packing and moving across the country and didn't have the time... https://www.monster4wd.co.nz/product-page/mcc-falcon-707-02-winch-bar-for-nissan-pathfinder-terrano-r50 here's the link that I bought it from but their domain is not connected. Also for the record never "repeatedly avoided all requests" when I simply just didn't reply when I was busy. Have a nice day
    2 points
  12. Also heavily featured on @zakzackzachary's YouYube channel:
    2 points
  13. That’s good to hear! Yeah I prefer the looks of this one compared to the ARB it looks more “modernized/updated” compared to the ARB. I’m eventually going to put a winch in it, I’ll give those RUNVA’s a look! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  14. Nice! They're a very popular bar here in NZ and IMO are the best looking bar you can get for the R50. I actually prefer them to the ARB bar. Are you going to put a winch in it? I'd recommend the RUNVA brand in a 9500 lb. Great quality at a good price.
    2 points
  15. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  16. Stock diesel QD32Eti
    2 points
  17. Front and rear diff from Nissan Safari 60 5.13 HF Standard gear front for Nissan Safari 60 61 Patrol if i correct understood your question
    2 points
  18. Plus a few more pics because why not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  19. Been quite some time but updated/upgraded the pathfinder since the last time I worked on it. I purchased some Warn Manual hubs for it as well as Method MR309 Grids in titanium gray on sale with 4.75” bs. The hubs went on super easy and I didn’t have to change my stock studs out as they were plenty long, I know people in the past had too but in my case I didn’t. With 265/70r17 tires that are a bit worn down I did still have ample room between the strut and the tire. With the new wheels I took off my wheel spacers so I am currently not running any spacers just solely the wheel. Driving around with the hubs unlocked you can tell a difference that there is less front end drag and that you can coast farther without having to be on the gas all the time. Nice little touches to the pathfinder in my opinion! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  20. Nice drive in the Colorado colors
    1 point
  21. My traction boards are mounted almost the same way, I had wing nuts on mine, but switched to threaded knobs, which made it a lot quicker to screw on and off. I also have a small locking cable (it's actually a snowboard cable lock) that I'll loop through the holes and the rack if I'm going to be parked somewhere sketchy. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  22. Couple more basic projects from this summer. First is a GMRS radio setup. I went with a Midland MXT275 because it has all of the controls on the handset which allows discreet installation of the head unit, and everything can be tucked away when not in use. It also includes a nice little magnetic antenna. I installed the antenna behind the roof rack’s wind deflector on the passenger side, and ran the cable down underneath the windshield trim - through the passenger door jam, and into the passenger side footwell: I ended up attaching the head unit inside the top half of the center console, and run the hand set cable through the opening. The head unit is powered by the cigarette lighter plug in the bottom compartment. System works great and I was able to communicate with my party about 4-5 miles away through pretty dense forest. Also got a set of X-Bull style recovery boards, and made some mounts for my SE rack out of square U-bolts with self adhering felt pads and heat shrink to help protect the cross bars. I know this has been done before but maybe it’ll help someone visualize how to attach these with our roof racks. I'm going to get wing nuts instead of the 3/16th nuts that came with the U-bolts but this works okay for now: Up next is a IAC valve replacement for preventative maintenance. I have the OEM Hitachi part just need to find the time to do it..
    1 point
  23. Bennett Pass - Mt. Hood National Forest - Oregon
    1 point
  24. There’s a rubber seal between the door and A pilar and I ran the wires in the channel of the rubber door seal and it pops out into the engine bay where the hood hinges are and they connect to the switch panel in the engine bay where [mention]RainGoat [/mention]helped tidy it up then a wire from the switch panel goes into the cabin via the clutch plate/hole underneath the brake booster Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  25. Yes I did install them back in April. There was an issue with the front set from Rockauto where the wrong ones were sent in the box. But got the correct ACDelco after contacting the company and they ride great in my opinion. No problems at all and the rear no longer sags when loading up heavy items. Front rides great as well. I changed the shocks as well and struts in front (kybs). Along with suspension bars in the rear, control arms in front, sway links, sway link bushings, rear sway links and bar bushing, ball joints, steering rack, tie rod ends, strut mounts and bearings, and the coil spring rubber seats front and back. I can say that the vehicle drives as solid as can be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  26. I'm running a similar setup (31x10.5" tires with a spring lift) although you didn't mention your wheels/offset. Mine rubbed a ton at first as well. Be sure to let the springs settle for a couple of weeks and then take it in for an alignment. When I got an alignment they dialed out 90% of the rubbing. I trimmed a bit of front fender liner as well. I only get a tiny bit of rub now under full lock in reverse and it doesn't bother me anymore....
    1 point
  27. I run generic poly bushings in the rear, installed around the same time as the SuperPros. They’ve done well as far as I can tell, though I did see one with a split on it, but seemingly induced by some rock contact on the forward perch. I also have a box of those Autoacers that I’ve been meaning to put in a spare set of links, just haven’t gotten to it. And yeah, being a little liberal on the lubrication during assembly helps with not only the install but also the noise after install.
    1 point
  28. Late response, but 4x4parts (AC, Automotive Customizers) sells the front LCA bushings (each end of the LCA sold separately). The brand is SuperPro and they’re reputable. I’ve been running them on my truck for a few years, too. I usually refrain from buying from AC due to shipping costs, but they were surprisingly the cheapest option at the time for those exact ones. https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981476-pathfinder-front-lower-control-arm-front-bushings.html https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981483-pathfinder-front-lower-control-arm-rear-bushings.html
    1 point
  29. Haha, you might be waiting a while! The Frontier needs engine work, and I won't make a decision on which truck to SAS until it's running. The previous owner acquired most of the parts needed to do a simple leaf-under swap on it, so it's tempting to just continue that project. But, doing the Pathfinder just seems far more appealing. Not sure I'd go to 37" tires. Have any tips, lessons learned, pros, or cons about your setup?
    1 point
  30. You're welcome. I'll be waiting pics of your project.. But 37s tires are too small for me and i have plans to grow soon ))
    1 point
  31. Thank you @Ermak! I acquired an SAS project (axle + Nissan Frontier truck still with IFS) the other week but haven't committed yet to completing that project. I've been exploring a very similar setup on my Pathfinder using Land Cruiser or Mitsubishi Montero Sport (Pajero?) arms instead. I needed this inspiration!
    1 point
  32. Yeah it wasn’t but the foreign exchange rate did help quite a bit! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  33. The tech bulletin for the countershaft bearing issue (NTB97-009a, think I found it on Nicoclub a while back) has a drawing of the side of the trans with both fill hole locations marked on it. Looks like the original (too low) is in line with a horizontal rib that runs all the way to the bellhousing; the revised case has the hole 24.8mm higher. The service bulletin says to replace the whole trans case with their revised "countermeasure" case, so, yeah, maybe yours had that done to it, or maybe it's just a later unit. The bulletin says it's for VG30 only, so naturally I have no idea if it applies to your setup.
    1 point
  34. Nice! Shipping wouldn't have been cheap!
    1 point
  35. Thank you! Correct they do make several models for the R50 so this also gives more options in the bumper world. The brand is out of Australia but produced in Thailand just like how some model ARB bumpers were back in the day. I had to buy it out of a store in New Zealand because they were the only ones that could ship to the US, stores in Australia couldn’t ship to the US. Unfortunately MCC doesn’t have any US distributors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  36. Hell yes I did the outer drums Raingoat, I put 3 little glow in the dark skulls in there but you can hardly see them through the windows of the rim, do not confuse powdercoat with paint, it’s a polyester hybrid resin I use, 10x the hardness of paint and higher temperature and chemical resistance, no paint would last with brake fluid and dust continuously being flung at it, ( I’ve tried high temp caliper paint before, last a year at best) So what your seeing is the original pistons that have been coated on the tops with a ceramic paint literally called piston coat(Cerakote V-136) reflects the temps back into the combustion chamber good up 2000 fahrenheit prevents heat soak through the connecting rods and crank increasing efficiency. The skirts are coated with Cerakote P-109 Microslick a dry lubricant ceramic, it’s about 1mm thick will not interfere with tolerances and it has many advantages as well. these coating can actually be applied to combustion chambers,crank, valve faces, valve springs, exhaust ports and a few other places. This engine is going to be straight fire one day, ( Whenever I get to reassembling it haha) Honestly I should just do a build page. Been building this Pathfinder for 12 years now. These coatings have real world results and I will get it on a dyno to prove it eventually Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  37. FIRST step of any 2001-4 R50 ownership - secure the powervalves! My new Q went under the knife with Dr. TowndawgR50 yesterday. After I bought this truck, it literally sat here in my drive until the parts came in and we could get this done. Having lost the pristine engine on my original owner Pathy, there was no way I was going to risk this truck. All 6 were in still in place, unlike the 5 missing screws & one displaced butterfly valve when my Pathy blew. These two were manufactured only 1 month apart. 15 years & 102K on mine when it went, 19 years & 123K on this one. As always, thanks a million[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] For any who haven’t done it on a late model auto R50: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1 (Keen eyes will note the OEM front bumper in the pic - I just brought that up from a visit to @‘02_Pathy in Portland with@TowndawgR50. Expect something interesting from him soon)
    1 point
  38. It's the suspension setup used on that front Patrol axle. I presume those are OE arms, but was the axle modified, or was it already LH drop? Either way, would love to see more pictures of the suspension and axle setup!
    1 point
  39. I swapped in the replacement JY fuel rail with injectors over the weekend and got her running again late yesterday night. I have now full power and I can actually redline again!
    1 point
  40. Good find! Glad you don’t have to drop the transmission, thats not a fun job. As for recommendations- Any item that requires taking off the intake to replace or is made easier by the current level of access. I believe I did my spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, some vacuum, coolant and fuel lines, fuel injector O-Rings as well as a few other items that were easily accessed with everything off the top of the motor. It definitely adds to the time and money invested but its well spent if you plan on keeping the rig for the long haul.
    1 point
  41. But how will my pathfinder's chi ever align without its vibration crystals??? Thanks for the answer. To the bin they go.
    1 point
  42. last time I went looking for bushings I had to get them from Bandit 4x4. Not even sure if they are still selling them though.
    1 point
  43. On the off chance you haven't yet, check those power valve screws while the intake is apart!
    1 point
  44. Yep, 4Runner guys are hot to buy the Pro wheels & the market gets flooded with the TRD Off-Road wheels for cheap since there’s little to no demand. Toyota’s too cheap to provide a matching spare so I bought a set & broke it up amongst 4 TRD Off-Roads that were keeping their OEM wheels & wanted to replace the spare steelie. My FJ 8Holes came off an FJ that put TRD Off-Road take offs on (he also took one of the spares).
    1 point
  45. We remounted it after I finally installed my winch & cube lights. I genuinely can’t thank@TowndawgR50 enough. While it may look the same at first glance, it’s incredibly more solid. Additionally, all the edges are rounded & smooth. It actually feels beautiful to the hand. A little behind the scenes of what goes on at @spinestopinesoffroad Tiger Mountain Test Lab. It’s worth noting that this is the kind of care, skill & perfectionism that makes up their DNA. It’s just one of the many reasons I rely on the two of them for their sage advice regarding modifications of any substance.
    1 point
  46. Should probably update this so you guys don't think I'm working on this thing forever lol. After 3 weeks of tedious work I finally got it back together and thankfully no leaks! This is definitely a big job to do nevertheless but totally worth it in my case as I would drip about half a quart of oil after parking... yeah. Also in the meantime while I had the rig apart@TowndawgR50 helped me install the Pines to Spines 4" SFD kit which also made it possible to take my oil pan out and access other parts of the vehicle. More details on that later... Also after this huge project and with addition to the SFD I have replaced and installed: New OEM motor mount Denso Starter 4" stainless steel braided brake lines from Goodridge Extended breathers on front and rear differentials U Joints New O rings in the oil pan as well as the pan gaskets and RMS IVAC gasket Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  47. Another mission success! I got this on a little bit ago, but haven't had a chance to post pics. You can find way more pics/info in my build thread here.
    1 point
  48. Here's some photos of the rig's transformation from when I got her to the police cruiser stage, then to a good trail rig to the present day Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
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