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  1. appreciate this forum!!!
    3 points
  2. Hi everyone my name is Bill thanks for having me.
    2 points
  3. Correct, that 50 pin powers other similar accessories. If I'm being honest, though, I have the Homelink and don't use it because of how it's wired. It's basically always on. It should have been wired to be on an ACC or ON circuit, in my opinion. Aside from being in plain sight, just takes someone breaking the window or opening the door to press the button and access to the garage.
    2 points
  4. The look on my dads face when I showed him the tool bag with the #6 tool was priceless. Had it out and replaced in 5 minutes, and any other R50 owner that hasn't used it is missing out!
    2 points
  5. The first thing you would want to do is check for leaks, the most common areas to check for leaks is where the aluminum lines are crimped onto the rubber hose on the low-pressure a/c line. This is the line that runs along the top front edge of your engine, if it's leaking it will be wet and greasy looking. If it's not leaking and you have verified the system has the correct amount of freon in it, then you can try cleaning your condenser and evaporator core. Here's a few videos for you to watch on the subject, there's also links in the video description for what you would need to clean your condenser and evaporator core. Chris.
    2 points
  6. Hey all, New member here. Got my 98 SE 4x4 last fall with about 98k miles single owner. Drove one in college in the late 90s and loved it. Was in the market for an inexpensive project vehicle that I could learn some auto mechanics on and turn into a capable 4x4 for some outdoor activities. Since I've been able to get the engine in good shape by changing belts, fluids, seals, water pump, as well as upgraded the suspension with an KYB/OME lift. I was also able to cash in on the strut tower rust recall. This website has been a treasure of info and am glad registration is back up. Looking forward to participating and keeping this place going.
    2 points
  7. I'm not aware of any size differences, and I'm surprised to not see the parts weren't superseding, but they should fit all the same. The difference is probably the vibration dampeners that are attached to the bar. Only real changes across the entire 96-04 range relating to rear suspension were in regards to shock mounting, and even then 96-99 were the same style.
    1 point
  8. Hey there yall, im freshly signed up now, but ive frequently used this forum over the past few years this is my 1997 r50 lifted 2 with 33x12.5 tires stuffed underneath her lol, used to be local to washington but now am located by little rock arkansas cant figure out how to adjust my photos properly from one drive yet, other wise i would add a photo thanks for the add here
    1 point
  9. As Chris mentioned, it could be the trans cooler hard lines or It could also be the rubber portion of the line which is the best case scenario... Just go to the auto parts store and ask for transmission line hose of the same diameter and you're good to go. It could also be the radiator. The radiator has aluminum barbs for the trans cooler lines that can snap. I've snapped mine off on the trail before. Once you find the point of exit for the fluid and fix it, a simple refill should get you mobile again. I'm guessing 4 quarts should get the thing rolling. May need a 5th quart to get where you need to be on the dipstick. Driver side cooler line is hot fluid exiting the trans. Passenger side is cooler fluid returning to the trans.
    1 point
  10. Well, the heat gun in "stock" form didn't work. Have since ordered the cone accessories to better concentrate/direct the heat, coupled with the Kroil that also arrived. (Currently using a wood block to keep the heat away from the wiper reservoir area). Have been trying with the ratchet strap, (not using the ratchet feature), just my "brute strength" to yank on it, the m/c will move SLIGHTLY, but really only from the top stud, towards the left front tire, can't get it to move towards the right front tire at all. If the heat won't get it, and dremel contraption is gonna be cumbersome, gonna protect/give some clearance to the stud threads (rubber hose, old credit card, etc) and try and chisel the ear and bend whatever gap I can make. Will try and post pics when I hit pay dirt! (Oh, thanks for chiming in, Slart, you helped me make sense of the EGR solenoid circuit many moons ago!)
    1 point
  11. If you could gently heat up the part of the MC around the stud it should release. Even a plumbing propane torch or MAPP gas would work, if you're careful you won't damage anything. That is what I did when changing my brake MC.
    1 point
  12. Assuming you do have everything disconnected, I would put the nuts back on(just a few threads) and lightly smack the master cylinder with a dead blow hammer(not to be confused with a rubber mallet)from the top and bottom the best you can. Hopefully that should break it loose enough for it wants to come off and then this will help keep it from flying off
    1 point
  13. Welcome! We strive to be a great source of information and community.
    1 point
  14. That was my assumption, too. Well, not really an assumption, since the Owner's Manual says it turns off after 30 minutes. But, because that function is seemingly tied to the battery saver function and not as a security measure, it's why I don't trust it. Per the FSM: The door opening is the main one, but I also think any appropriate metal object --key or screwdriver-- in the cylinder might also complete the circuit. This description is also specifically for when the battery saver mode is activated. It's not clear if this applies when battery saver mode is not activated, or even if the security is enabled. My thought is that anything that enables the interior lighting also enables the vanity lamps and Homelink. If true, that means just switching the dome light from Off or Door to On or pressing the door unlock switch will wake everything, even if the door is not opened (pretty sure the alarm still sounds if the door is unlocked from the inside after being armed). Main thing for me is that there are just too many conditions. It should just be disabled when no key is present. I don't even like knowing it remains active for 30 minutes...why so long? Why not 5 minutes? I don't even want a dome light left on for 30 minutes.
    1 point
  15. Well, I'm done retrofitting the sun visors. It was relatively easy with the only hassle being routing the wires through the small holes in the roof. There is a reinforcing structure just above the windshield that prevents you from easily reaching out and grabbing the wire. To make that part easy you would need to remove the whole headliner, which is something I wasn't willing to do. In any case, it's manageable once you get the hang of it. The rest is just splitting wires and testing everything. I tapped into the reading lights power and ground as I planned but on the console's side. The main harness was left untouched. I already programmed two garage motors. BTW, @hawairish, not sure if homelink is always powered in R50s as they came from the factory, but they way I wired it (to the power saver interior lighting circuit) it cuts power after 10-15 min so it's not that bad. What I don't know is if someone forcefully opens a door (without the key and with the alarm armed) if the car will be dumb enough to "wake up". If it does, then there's still that risk you mentioned.
    1 point
  16. The alarm on these was an afterthought, so it's pretty easy to remove. Most of it is just plugged in between stuff. Your ignition switch plugs into the alarm harness, which plugs into the main harness--so you just separate the two plugs and plug the switch into the main harness, without the alarm harness in between. Same deal for the power locks, at the A pillar. I think the horn was the same way. A couple wires are scotchlock'd into the harness, so you'll have to pick those apart or cut the wires on the alarm harness side. The parking lights are tapped near the switch, and the dome light is tapped near the fuel door release IIRC. The wires for the hood switch and the siren go through the firewall along with the fog light harness, so be careful which wires you cut there. IIRC the fog harness is also scotchlock'd to the headlight harness near the switch. The alarm brain is the square box under the driver's seat with the hole in the top (or a white sticker over the hole in the top, if that's still there). You will need to remove the driver's seat, the kick panel, the clamshell, and the trim plate along the bottom of the door jamb. Might need to remove the dash panel under the clamshell as well. Didn't take too long when I did it to mine, and my starter circuit has been reliable since.
    1 point
  17. FSM says the harness (M62, white w/ 6 wires) is located on the passenger side, near the A-pillar. May have to pull the glove box to see would be my guess. The Smart Entrance Control Unit supplies the power for it (from pin 50, red w/white wire to M62) and is above the pedals somewhere. The FSM indicates that the harness that connects to the illuminated visor (R5, red w/ 2 wires) is the same harness used to power the Homelink transceiver. Everything should run up the passenger A-pillar. Refs: https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder%2F2003%2Fel.pdf EL-371: Homelink diagram EL-101: vanity/illumination diagram EL-522/523: main harness layout (M62 in cell F1) EL-532: A-pillar/roof wiring locations
    1 point
  18. If you're still running the factory mechanical cluch cooling fan, make sure the clutch is still in good condition. There should be some resistance when rotating by hand with the engine off. If you try to push it really fast and it keeps spinning, this is your issue. Does the engine maintain proper temp for a long time at idle with the A/C off? The fan should be able to keep the engine cool at idle for a long period of time with out over heating. Its also possible the pressure sensor could be going faulty, and looking at a service manual diagram there isn't a temperature sensor for the refrigerant. (HA-31)
    1 point
  19. If the system hasn't been charged since factory, its possible the pressure isn't as high as it used to be. My brother's WD21 will blow warm then cold repeatedly while hearing the compressor kicking on and off. This is usually the sign of low refrigerant. Heat also expands, so its possible when it gets warm the refrigerant is getting to a high enough temperature for the system to "function". The VG has a weird adapter harness so the connection might be loose on one of the plugs. Not 100% on the VQ, I'd have to look at my donor car to know for sure. Testing for 12V at the plug should give a pretty good indication on how the system is functioning. 12V should turn on the compressor, and 0V off.
    1 point
  20. I got a payout, based on the cost to repair, so saving the labour doing the panel work myself I should have enough to get it repainted You're right parts are getting really hard to find. Almost tempted to get another parts truck...
    1 point
  21. If anyone ever finds themselves looking for these connectors because they also want to reuse the factory harness. Use part number: 12015792 Delphi Weather Pack Someone on the facebook group managed to reverse image search for them online. I'll just order new connectors
    1 point
  22. I just airdrop to my macbook and export from the default photos app. It has options for quality and size. Assuming other photo editing apps have similar (there's probably some free apps on iphone but haven't researched)
    1 point
  23. I believe this to be forum page Slart was referencing though. https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/distributor-rebuild-on-the-cheap-for-1st-gen-nissan-frontier-xterra.350719/
    1 point
  24. Looks like Wes answered this the last time you asked.
    1 point
  25. This is great info. Thanks
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. I successfully changed my first timing belt/water pump/drive belts/cam and crank shaft seals thanks in large part to the info here. I'll share some tips from it here that I put on the npora facebook group a few weeks ago: My first timing belt replacement is done. Pathy runs smoothly. Replaced timing belt, water pump, cam and crankshaft seals, coolant hoses, and drive belts. Here are a few tips for anyone who tries this in the future... The 1A auto YouTube tutorial on R50s is superb. Following it will set you right - https://youtu.be/awjqoFUUPSo?si=6Avjp9Q6ivaIk-UO the Nissan repair manual is good to have as well. (get it on the NICO Club forum) Use the OEM crankshaft seal. I went through 3 seals because the inner lip would get caught on the shaft and fold under. The Nissan seal was built better (and pre-lubed) The harmonic balance puller is fantastic for pulling the crank pulley right off. I bought a kit for like 20 bucks on Amazon (you can also get a loaner from the autoparts store), and got the bolts for it at the hardware store (m6 x 1.0 x 75mm - same size as the long upper left bolt in the lower timing cover) An impact wrench is key. Used it for getting off/on the crankshaft bolt and the cam bolts without turning the shafts. I also used a camshaft holder tool once the belt was off. I debated on whether to remove the air compressor like the video suggests or try to jimmy the timing cover off around it. I was able to get the timing cover off with some work, but getting it on was tougher, and scary (I didn't want to break my A/C or mess with my timing bel. Moving the compressor was easier than I thought. The power steering tensioner bolt was a PITA because of where it was located. a 12mm ratcheting wrench would've been nice Tighten your belts. The first time I turned on the engine it was like the loudest chalkboard screech I've ever heard. Finally, there's a right-angle coolant hose that sits behind the timing belt cover that's a PITA to get off/on. I ended up having success using a chisel to pry it on. Make sure the clamp tabs aren't facing out when you put the timing cover back on, or it can bend the cover, possibly interfering with the belt. I of course read this in the repair manual after the cover and cam sprockets were back on.
    1 point
  28. Steering stop noise doesn't apply to the r50, that's a wd21/22 thing.
    1 point
  29. Hey guys I just picked up a 2002 QX4 with sunroof, two tone, no heated seats or steering wheel, and I donโ€™t think it has a LSD Other than a blower motor I did once upon a long time ago, this is my first experience with a R50! Im excited. Not much experience with Japanese autos. Mostly German. excited to drive my Pathfinder/QX4 to work, with my very young son, to the recycling dump, and whatever else. Will try to keep it in the family for as long as I can. Hopefully, Lord willing, not too many hiccups along the way! I found the forum while looking for creature comfort mods. What is everyone doing for infotainment?
    1 point
  30. I'll bet this is a quirk of the Ackermann angle. When you're turning, both front wheels follow curved paths, but the inside wheel follows a tighter curve, so it has to steer sharper. The geometry to make this happen is built into the knuckles (where the tie rod attaches vs where the knuckle pivots). The farther you turn, the more the Ackermann kicks in. This also means that any error in the geometry will show up more the farther you're turned. Anything suspension-related tends to be at its worst at the limits of its travel anyway. I'm guessing the steering angles at full lock don't quite agree on how tight of a turn you're taking, which means one wheel or the other has to slip, which is more dramatic on the polished concrete than it is on normal road surfaces. Strato's wheel offset is an interesting wrinkle to this. Changing the offset wouldn't change the angles, but it would change the curve of the paths they're on--evidently enough to get them closer to where the wheels are pointing. Now that I'm thinking about it, I don't think I've ever driven mine in a parking garage, but I have noticed that it disturbs gravel more at full lock. Probably the same thing going on. In any case, Ackermann is not adjustable (apart from racecar stuff), so I'd file this one under It Just Does That. It's also possible I'm full of crap. But if you're not in 4x, then it's not torque binding. If a tire was hitting something in the wheel well, which would make sense with it only happening at full lock, I imagine you would've noticed the noise or seen the shiny spot. I've heard of the rear limited slip chattering if it's got the wrong lube in it, but I wouldn't expect that to only happen when you're against the steering stops.
    1 point
  31. My Xterra has done this forever... I think it is a normalish thing for solid axle part time 4wd vehicles.
    1 point
  32. Not sure how long the forum was down, but it was caused by a PHP error on the server. And a thanks goes out to @adamzan for bringing it to my attention.
    1 point
  33. I'm going to say this is normal because my parents are the original owners of my 97, and when I started driving it my dad always warned me about taking corners too fast for that reason. Since getting some Offset wheels and the lift there is no more of this wheel hop at all. My dad would say it was always on the right hand turns it would hop the most for him.
    1 point
  34. Put a new cheapo Dual deck in. Iโ€™ve had her now 6 years and have loved every minute. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  35. Well since the host of the site had a failure a few days ago, I'll go ahead and toss in a recap to the build from May 2021 to present since some of my build posts are gone. 2001 SE Grille: Kind of a rare find since the Bronzed Gray paint only existed in 2001 and 2002. Found it listed in a local part out. Sadly the part out had worse paint on the hood and fenders than mine but I digress. Powerstop z36 front brake kit. Local guy had a wrecked R50 that I was buying parts from. He had these new in box and wanted me to take/buy them. I didn't need brakes so I was like "uh, I can do $20" and he handed them over. For daily driving and wheeling they don't feel any different than my stock discs and pads but whatevs. Poly steering rack bushings form 4x4parts.com I rebuilt the front end with new cv axles, inner+outer tie rods, ball joints, inner+outer bearings, and rack bushings trying to find a popping noise that ended up being a control arm bushing. They don't appear to drive or feel special but I think polyurethane is supposed to be more resilient to oil than rubber so that's comforting to know while I procrastinate on replacing leaky valve covers. Missing link Made this from 1.5" x 1.5" 1/8" steel square tubing. 23 7/8" long. Ends chopped at 45 degrees. Couldn't feel any difference driving or wheeling. This later got modified for a skid plate a few months later. Skidplate. Had some trails at the offroad park that couldn't be finished because I lacked armor. After getting scammed on cheap rock sliders and Lokka taking 9 months to ship my part, my wife was very leery about me spending big bucks on car parts so I took matters into my own inexperienced hands to make my own skidplates. 3/16 thick 24x48 steel was "only" $96 so I started. I first modified the missing link by adding a 1" spacer from square tubing so the plate steel would clear the front diff. I measured and cut out the mid skid and made notches for the rear control arm bolts. I turned a lot of drill bits into smoke so drilling this took forever. I cut the front skid and notched it with an angle grinder. Apparently the plate steel had a wave to it and made it difficult to notch with the angle grinder without puncturing through the back side. Welded the creases and cleaned up the mill scale and welds after several hours Painted it with flat black rust converter for easy touch ups. Found some bolts at the hardware store. Got some washers for rocks to deflect off. Mounted it up. Just enough clearance between plate and diff Took it to the offroad park and hit the trails I had to turn around on last time. Got some scars to test it out. I think it's a winner. Whenever time allows, I'll see about making a rear skid. So that's a wrap on the build as it sits now.
    1 point
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