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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Time for an update! Another month gone by... It's been busy the last several weeks, as usual. We've since acquired all the steel and hardware we need to do the first batch of kits. We've done a limited run of parts to validate our anticipated production processes, and things are currently in @TowndawgR50's hands to complete the first finished kits. For now, this first pass only includes a complete 3" and 4" kit (and technically the 1.75" spacer, thanks to the modular design), as well as two panhard drop bracket options: a short bracket that gives a simple 3.5" drop, and a long bracket for 3.5", 4.5", or 5.5" drops. We also intend to offer extended rear sway bar end links. Expect some teaser pics soon. We are planning to install the first 3" kit in less than 2 weeks (!!), so we're both excited and stressed. Soon after, The Gambler will get outfitted with the 4" kit. If everything goes to plan, we'll start cranking out the remaining kits for the initial group we've been working with. Also, we want to make a clarification about the camber-correction function of the strut spacers: while the two-piece strut spacers allow for camber adjustments, we are still advocating the use of camber bolts. The adjustment feature is primarily to make large camber adjustments during the installation process. You'll be able to eyeball the camber during installation, and get it dialed in relatively well, but our secondary objective is to simply make sure the truck is alignable—and for many people (including myself), this means taking the truck to a professional shop. The use of camber bolts gives alignment shops the ability to accurately dial things in, using a part/process that they are very familiar with. While we like our strut spacer approach, it will be very foreign to many shops, who may refuse to adjust them. Keep in mind that R50s didn't have camber or caster adjustability to begin with, so there's already the initial challenge of informing the shop that you've added camber adjustability. Feel free to ask any questions, otherwise more updates to follow soon!
  2. 12 points
    Finished 1 complete 3" prototype kit as well as a partial 3" prototype kit and sent them off to AZ today. In the process of making this initial batch we've invested a lot of time into fabricating fixtures for the assembly and welding processes. This ensures our kits are consistent and allows us to be much more efficient. Looking forward to the coming weeks as this has been a lot of work and time but the passion for this project only grows daily, doubly so with good weather finally creeping in here and camping season on the horizon!
  3. 11 points
  4. 8 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 8 points
    Alright folks, I finally got around to installing my tire carrier. Special thanks to everyone in the R50 Tire Carrier Mod: Lets Settle This! post. I thoroughly went through that and studied everything in preparation for this. Special tools I picked up include the following: M10 Rivet Nut 95105A199 (hinges) M10 bolts 91280A636 (hinge bolts) M8 Rivet Nuts 95105A191 (lower latch) Astro Rivet Nut Kit Rivet Tool (lower hatch plate) 1.5 x 1.5" x 1/8" thick angle aluminum First step was to mock up the carrier to get an idea of where the lower mounting hardware needed to be bolted. Then I took off the bumper to check to see if there were the OEM cutout locations- Indeed there were cutouts! I used a hot X-acto blade to easily trim out the holes. At this point I wanted to get the lower latch hardware finished first so I can use it to hold the carrier while I do the hinge portion. I trimmed 1" off one side of the 1.5" angle aluminum, that way it can tuck under toward the vehicle a bit. I tested the rivnuts, seem to work well! I transferred my hardware marks from the metal bumper to my aluminum and used a step bit to drill out the holes, then finished them to the rivnut size of 13.5mm (17/32") using a hard-to-find bit. Both the M8 and M10 required the same hole size. I drilled two small holes to temporarily rivet the aluminum to the vehicle, then used the holes I drilled in the aluminum to drill the holes in the bumper for the rivnuts. The aluminum was then removed and the rivnuts were installed- Then the aluminum went back on. The rivnuts have a washer-head that's larger than the hole, so when you put the aluminum back on it sandwiches the rivnut. I drilled out a bunch of holes and installed rivets to hold it in place. Took no time at all. From here it was as simple as bolting on all the lower hardware. Note: unlike some, I did not have the swing gate door ajar sensor wiring left in the bumper. Hinge time. I put some protective tape down and removed the inner plastic trim to get access to behind the vehicle skin- With the carrier mounted up, locked into the lower latch, I marked out my hole locations. Using pilot holes, I started with the ones I could reach with the carrier closed. Lots of removing, testing, drilling, removing, looking, etc. Eventually I got enough holes in to start the rivnuts. The most aft two holes on each hinge are in very difficult to reach locations, I opted to just rivnut those. The side holes are accessable relatively easily from the inside so I fished nylocks with washers onto those. Fully assembled! I have a license plate bracket + light combo in the mail. I think I'll use the rivnut gun again and mount it on the hatch to the driver's side of the tire carrier. And of course, a tribute to the ruster that I pulled the carrier from: Junkyard bonus stuff- Got these 5' long Yakima crossbars with mounts that work on the OEM Pathfinder rails. Here I am testing them on a junker: Also scored me one of them fancy string dampers for the glove box.
  6. 8 points
    Alright, here is the install of the new-style oem carrier. A huge thanks to hawairish for his patience and expertise on these installs. I would not have been able to have this without his help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 8 points
  8. 8 points
    Little project I wrapped up today, got some scene lights and spot lights for the rack. Got the lights off of Amazon as they work for my needs and if I ever want to upgrade to a brighter spot light I can always do so in the future but it works pretty well for the price. The spots are Auxbeam brand and the side lights are Kalwell I believe. Ran the wiring through the superstrut channel crossbar I made and down the A pillar underneath the weatherstrip. I have 360° lighting and will come handy whether camping, in a parking lot or just to see everywhere in a dark area. Some of the pictures are with the normal headlights and then the lightbar and spot lights, then looking to the side without and with the side lights on. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  9. 8 points
    Took a 99% amazing trip to Afton Canyon, the Mojave Lava Tubes, Kelso Dunes, and the Calico Hills. Mostly wonderful, exploring the Mojave Road and other trails nearby. Did bite off a bit more than I could chew doing the water crossing at Afton (P0130 and P01325 codes came right up), and may have overdid it on the clutch trying a slightly too difficult section of road in Calico. Looks like I have some more work to do on Hermon!
  10. 7 points
    So... After already starting a topic or 2 I thought I'd just start documenting all of the madness of trying to pull a Frankenstein. This will certainly test my patience but I'm all in on this project and it's just due to boredom and sentiment. My parents had a '93 hardbody and a '96 R50 so I wanted to buy one to fool around with but ended up buying 2 of them in need of major TLC instead. It's going to be slow and steady but I can be long winded so read on with a grain or 2 of salt. The first two topics are: And I've already had a handful of issues and really haven't documented a whole lot but I'm going to try to start from my current position and hopefully get help where needed. You'll find that this is truly a rescue thread more than a build because there are sooooo many things that need work. Anyway, I'm off like a herd of turtles. I'll post a few pics tomorrow and cover where I'm at with this project. Thanks to all in advance for your patience.
  11. 7 points
    Another mission success! I got this on a little bit ago, but haven't had a chance to post pics. You can find way more pics/info in my build thread here.
  12. 7 points
    I’ll be back with some actual pics from canyon lands in a week Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 6 points
    I pulled all the metal part from the truck for painting/bedlining (the parts, not the truck). Everything weighs over 460 lbs! No wonder my MPG has been crap for years... Also have my new Kia Telluride and the project FJ80 creeping in the background. Carnage from the sliders. Will likely modify them to avoid further damage. And finally got some lights mocked up on the bumper before removing it.
  14. 6 points
    Adding @Astrorami's build link to the thread, since we completed his last weekend. His is the newer style aluminum carrier, which weighed around 36.5 lbs vs. the 58-lb steel carrier. For his, we used a 1.5" x 14" (14.5?", I don't recall already) 14ga steel strip and a bunch of 1/4" and 3/16" rivets, in addition to the rivnuts. I was very pleased with how that turned out; barely any deflection when pushing or lifting the support bracket. Admittedly, we installed the hinge mounts about 1/4" too high, which created some alignment issues with the support bracket, as well as made the lower plastic hinge cover come up over the tail light a little. Overall, pleased with the install despite that issue. The release lever on this model is lower than the older models, so it doesn't contact the valence panel on the liftgate, about a 1/4" gap. We didn't come up with a license plate mount or lighting...the aluminum frame tubing had a larger diameter than the vinyl-coated clamps that I had. Since it was very late (er, very early in the morning), we just cable tied the plate and literally taped a freebie Harbor Freight LED light to it so that he could legally drive it home that night. We also did not wire up the switch for the tire carrier cluster light that looks like a hamburger. Just like my experience, his switch did not match the harness that's there, which seems to confirm that there's some additional pigtail wiring that needs to be grabbed from a donor to avoid having to splice wires. Oh...and I also learned that long ago when I did mine, I flipped the hole opening for the switch...Astrorami gave me grief about it...the hole for the switch body is supposed to be on the right of the screw hole. I had put it on the left, and we did the same on his just because the positioning on the reinforcement template was already set (and because it doesn't really matter...you can just as easily flip the plastic depressor piece on the carrier to make it line up). Lastly, I don't recall finding any set of 5 M12x1.25 locking lug nuts when I looked years ago, but they seem to exist now. McGard 25442: http://www.mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-5-locks-and-1-key/ (I'm still using the Rugged Ridge 16715.22 single wheel lock.) ... In other news, I removed my carrier from my truck the other day for bedlining, along with my bumpers, sliders, and skids. Here's how my rivnuts have held up over the years: By no means terrible. The overall damage is minimal; the indentations on the side panels are from an accidental too fast/hard opening long ago (lesson learned), but it's also apparent that at some point I dragged the tire while off-roading judging by the 4 rivets at the rear...the top two are pushed in a little (panel is dented from corner of hinge bracket), and the bottom two are bulged out a tiny amount. I never knew I did that, but if that's the extent of carnage, I can totally live with that. Naked truck...
  15. 6 points
    not a pathfinder, but here’s my ride to prom tonight. My grandpa’s restores 66 GTO, bored out motor and headers, among other things
  16. 6 points
    Knocked out about 560 miles round trip on a long drive down to the Columbia River Gorge. Kicked it around Hood River before heading up into the mountains on the Washington side to camp for the night. Dropped down to 34*F overnight, ouch! It'll be nice when the weather warms up. Here you can see the high-tech branch deflection device I turned my fold out table into. The path to this campsite was covered in lots of low hanging branches and they were getting caught on my new bag. The rest of the car is definitely SCRATCH CITY, but that's what I got it for! And next to a modern Pathfinder- Got home and had to pressure wash the mud off! One of the puddles I splashed through must have had a bunch of horse manure in it...
  17. 6 points
    Yes, Alex is spot on. Your cv’s up front are designed to operate within factory geometry, which basically from full compression (at the bump stops) to full extension (strut top out). Putting a lift coil inside your strut assembly may increase the frequency that you hit that top out, or full extension of the strut, but even with the increased angles your cvs are still within the stock operation angles that they were made to function within from the factory. With spacers, however, since you’re moving the entire strut assembly down 2,” your cv’s can now extend to your struts full extension PLUS that 2,” causing them to bind up and break. Yes, the angle that the cvs sit at on the road are gonna be equal, the problem is with actual off road use they can drop passed the angle they were made to operate within if that makes sense. That aside, we’re all human and all make mistakes regardless of who’s right or wrong. Everyone’s trying to just help each other out here and sometimes things can get miscommunicated, so let’s try and keep the personal attacks off the forum. We’ve got a really great community here of a ton of awesome folks.
  18. 6 points
    Went for a bit of a drive!
  19. 5 points
  20. 5 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 5 points
    Just out in the woods playin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. 5 points
    Just to add a little justification for the cost, even building your own kit isn’t cheap. I just added up what it would cost me to replicate everything on my truck as it currently sits, and it’s right around $600 that I have in it. That not only includes the material to fabricate the sfd components, but also the front and rear HD springs, extended shocks, limit straps, etc.. Once you factor in the labor time to fabricate the kit, and the fact that there needs to be enough profit to make it worth your while, there is a good reason that it isn’t cheap to buy a good pre-made sfd kit. If you’re not trying to make a profit, have the means, and just want to make a kit for your personal rig, then the DIY approach definitely saves some money. This also makes a good argument for waiting for the upcoming “pines to spines” kit. As I understand it, they are making the components modular, so if budget is a concern you can start with getting the parts for a mild lift, and then “grow into” bigger lifts later on by adding onto the basic kit. Correct me if I’m wrong on that....
  23. 5 points
    how about the 33s? (that actually measure 32.5x11.5 after inflation on 15” rim) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. 5 points
    More OHV fun on a day off
  25. 5 points
    Finally finished mine, from Coastal. I think it’s a fantastic build. It’s very heavy but very sturdy. There ARE some flaws in the design that they don’t account for, such as the dinky little power steering line that runs across the front of the frame, so that was a huge pain to bend and move out of the way... resulting in some crushed fins on my condenser, but oh well, more reason to install an aftermarket cooler eventually. I really took my time welding the kit, made sure it was solid throughout, but I also have a pretty decent set of welding machines at work. It’s not going to be easy with a smaller welder, so be prepared to either have a decent one at your expense, or someone that can weld it. The total time it took me to bevel the edges, tack it together, weld, grind, stitch-weld the inside, etch, prime, and paint was a little over 36 hours, and I was definitely taking my time. All in all, it’s a fantastic kit, the piece quality was actually great, and the metal was very clean and ready to weld, minus the edges that all had to be beveled. For the price and availability, I strongly recommend their service.
  26. 4 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 4 points
    I’d hate to buy this poor Tahoe as a used vehicle one day. I see this thing at least once a week where I shop for work. It’s always loaded down and riding on the bumpstops like this with an overweight trailer. Also has like 6 people riding inside. Pics don’t do it justice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 4 points
    I know it’s not the same as the stresses from a winch pulling, but for a basic strength test I’m happy to see the bumper has no problem supporting the weight of the truck (at least the front of it). This is just lifting from the round tube on the front of the bumper. I took it slow, but it lifted both wheels with no complaints. It’s hard to tell in the picture, but the drivers wheel was off the ground just enough to spin it by hand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  29. 4 points
  30. 4 points
    Well, after giving the feedback/criticism some thought, I decided to pull the winch back off and add some reinforcement to the winch and fairlead mount. I’m sure it still isn’t the best design, but I do feel a lot better about this being able to spread the load out across more of the bumper. I was going for a minimalist design at first, but I agree it was a bit too minimalist.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  31. 4 points
    The answer is yes Aaaand a little something to remember the trail. There’s now a random boulder with a nice red stripe on it in the middle of the woods now. Time to build some sliders! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  32. 4 points
    Picked up a new toy today!should make a nice addition to the bumper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  33. 4 points
    Echoing the last couple replies, springs alone don’t lead to CV breakage. Neither springs nor spacers change the max extension length of the strut, but only spacers can change the max operating angle of the CV, which at around 2” of spacer lift, becomes problematic. An SFD does correct the operating angle of the CV. I think there was a minor clash in the concept/purpose of the SFD in some of the replies, but all are technically accurate. Historically, the SFD kits were previously sold as having a strut spacer that’s equal in height to the subframe spacers, and it could “stack” with whatever springs you have. That is, if you bought a 4” SFD and already had AC springs, it would yield a 6” lift on 4” SFD, but you’d still be at risk for CV binding. But if you just wanted only 4” of lift, you’d have to run stock springs. I find the notion of matching strut spacer and subframe blocks totally unnecessary, and the kits we’re producing don’t require that; you will mix and match springs and spacers to get the desired lift amount, and then offset the lift with whichever subframe blocks will keep the “net” lift to around 0”-1.5” to avoid CV binding. Case in point, I run 3” strut spacers, OME HD springs (about 1.5” lift for my setup), with a 3” SFD. I could run the exact lift setup and 4” SFD if CV angles were a concern, but I’d rather have the ground clearance.
  34. 4 points
    I'll leave it simply at the fact that @02_Pathy and @PathyDude17 have got the idea right about spacer vs spring lifts and their effect on suspension. Spacer lifts work, but you're more likely to break a CV off-road, and almost guaranteed with a taller spacer lift. As far as the SFD issue, I think you guys just had a miscommunication; it seems that from the beginning you both expressed how they work correctly, just maybe not entirely clearly. I've been meaning to make a diagram demonstrating the different kinds of lifts. Now that I have a week off between semesters I suppose it's high time. Don't want to get anybody riled up, just want to help people modify their rigs in the way which will suit their intended use best! -tacking on because Micah replied while I was typing, to say his explanation is pretty dang good about spacer vs spring.
  35. 4 points
    Yes both lifts via coils and spacers change the angle of the axle to some degree and thus accelerate wear on boots and such. With the spacer lifts and depending on which size you get they physically move the strut down however many inch spacer you put up front. So at full droop when offroading the strut will drop farther down because the spacer pushes it down that much and that's how some people break and bind CV axles. With the coil lift at full droop itll stay the same as stock because the strut is still in it normal operating range and isn't being pushed down by a physical spacer, the only thing that prevents it from dropping too far is the maximum travel of the strut. I'm running a 1inch spacer with OME HD coils and dont have issues with binding or blowing up a CV, the only problem I have is CV boot wear. Not trying to start an argument or anything as theres tons of information out there with different styles of lifts and testimonies I'm just adding my 2 cents into the pot. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  36. 4 points
    Just checking in with an update after the most recent suspension work. I’ve put about 500 miles on it with the sfd, custom front coils, and limiting straps and I’m still very happy with how it all worked out. Other than the struts topping out, I love the way it rides with the new front suspension set up, and the limiting straps worked out perfect to take care of the top out. I haven’t had a single issue with top out since installing the straps. At the risk of jinxing myself..I’m going to say I’m done messing with the pathy for a while and am just going to drive it, lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  37. 4 points
    I had several XJ waves that got more confused as they went past. Always fun breaking the neck of a guy driving a big Jeep haha. On the original topic of this thread, it's always cool spotting R50's in published things. Fun to keep an eye out when watching movies.
  38. 4 points
    I've been lazy lately, but I'm finally moving forward with the rear tire carrier! I ordered rivnuts and bolts from McMaster (hopefully shipping isn't outrageous since they don't tell you what it'll be...), my current game plan is to go with rivnuts in the hard to reach spots, and either a metal plate+washer+nuts or larger fender washer+nuts (nylock). I'll update when I get around to doing it. Here's a fun little update- me and some friends went out and were just doing some trail driving. Found a little hilly challenge and decided to give it a go. Definitely steeper than it looks in the video! Pathfinder made it up just fine Also, slightly off topic, but kayaking went great:
  39. 3 points
    That’ll come in handy if you go wheeling with any Jeeps
  40. 3 points
    Hello all, I've just managed to locate and buy back my 2001 3.3L Pathfinder R50 SE which was my first car many many years ago. The reason I bought it back is because it has a big sentimental value but for many reasons I was forced to sell it a few years back. But here we are, about 10 years later, different circumstances with this new crazy project. I'm planning to completely strip the car down, from engine to transmission, suspension etc. and build it back from scratch to make it a much better/more powerful car. My priority is performance and comfort rather than offroad (even though it should still be able to hit a dirt road or be driveable under light snow). Basically the pathfinder version of an SRT8 First choice is to find what engine fits and/or is recommended, and this is where I'd appreciate your advice. I'm not sure if something like this has been done before? My restriction: absolutely non-turbo engine. Must be NA. I'm aware i might have to do some alteration to the engine bay, that's fine with me. Budget is not an issue here (Ok maybe not 100k but still decent budget) Any other similar crazy project/engine + transmission suggestions here?
  41. 3 points
    Just keepin the thread going. #97jlr50 #infinitinorthamerica #cleanmachine Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  42. 3 points
    I love this time of year. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  43. 3 points
    actual tire measurements are 32.5x11.5 on 15 with 3.75” backspacing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  44. 3 points
    [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention], if that’s true, I think I would follow your lead with a 3”SFD instead of 4”, however, I’ll want it to match up with the LR9448s in back. I’m happy to take functionality over aesthetics & I’m not sure 1” will be noticeable (except when I’m around @02_Pathy &[mention=39745]stpickens[/mention] with their eventual 4”. We’ll all be under[mention=37543]towndawgR50[/mention] by a notable amount anyway - TownDawgR50 or is it TopDawgR50?)
  45. 3 points
    One thing I generally love about this forum compared to other car forums, is people genuinely talk to each other with respect and aren’t always trying to one up each other. That being said, let’s all take a deep breath and a step back on this one....lol. I think everyone is trying to help and a lot is just getting lost in translation. Here’s what I know from my personal experience with several different set ups. Spacer lifts and spring lifts both increase the static angle the same amount, thus effecting CV boot wear and camber the same when at normal ride height. The difference is in the maximum angle at full suspension travel (full droop). The stock R50 struts have about 3 inches of down travel before they max out, and anywhere within that 3 inch range the CV is generally safe from binding. With a spring lift, you’re only working within that 3 inch range of travel. A 2 inch lift will use up 2 inches of down travel, leaving only 1 inch left (hence some people experience top out). But the CV won’t bind up and Grenade itself at full droop because it is still at the same maximum angle as stock. Now say you have a 2 inch spacer lift on top of the stock strut and spring assembly. At static ride height, everything is at the same angle as it would be with a 2 inch coil spring lift. But, in this case you still have the full 3 inches of strut travel available. So if you unload the front suspension and let it hang at full droop, you will now have a full 5 inches of downward travel and the CV will be beyond it’s safe limit of travel. If this happens while the front axles are spinning the CV will bind up and something will most likely break. That is why people say spring lifts are safer, because they don’t let the CV travel past it’s stock limits for downward travel. With spacers, 2 inches is generally the max you can go and “probably” not break anything. If you put in anything larger than a 2 inch spacer without a sfd then probably not becomes definitely will break something. Now SFD’s really come into play when you want to go past 2-2.5 inches of lift. Dropping the sub frame let’s you go beyond 2 inches while still keeping the CV’s at a safe angle and also keeps camber within spec by bringing down the lower control arm mounting point. Most people with a SFD achieve the lift through a combination of both strut spacers and lift springs, then drop the sub frame whatever amount is needed to bring all the angles back into a safe range. So if you have a total lift of 4 inches with both spacers and springs, then you use a 4 inch spacer to bring the sub frame down to match it. Here are a couple pictures of my front end that were taken while in the process of doing the sfd. The first is with full lift in place (combination of 2 inch spacers and 2.5 inch spring lift) but without the sfd. You can see the CV and lower control arm angles are all out of whack. Then with the sfd in place everything is back to lining up much more reasonably. Hope this all helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  46. 3 points
    Pines to Spines Offroad. They’re getting ready to do the first fittings & trials. Your patience will be rewarded by a better product.
  47. 3 points
    Suuuuuuure Glad to hear it's still going well!
  48. 3 points
    Do more research. My AC coils have never and will never bind up my cv axles under any conditions, where as my spacers would have. A strut spacer means you’re lifting on top of your strut, which means your strut assembly is now pushed down, as opposed to a spring lift which lifts inside of the travel limited by the strut (hence experiencing top out with a coil lift but not with a spacer lift). You will never bind a shaft with a coil lift, period. It simply isn’t possible, the halfshaft is always operating within its designed travel. Just ask @XPLORx4. His 18 years on AC coils going throughout Moab and whatnot can attest to that lift. To the people who have busted multiple CV’s on spacers, @TowndawgR50 and @system_f can attest to that. As far as the SFD goes, understand an SFD is usually run with a 2” lift in conjunction with it (4” body lift with 2” suspension lift with SFD). If you just do an SFD with no spring lift your ground clearance doesn’t change at all in the front, except by half of your increase in tire size. A 6” SFD on 33” tires has .5” more ground clearance than a properly set up 2” lift on 32’s that can tuck tires correctly. And honestly, if you’re serious about your rig you’ll find more and more reasons to go with a spring lift. It improves handling and load capacity, which is important for taking turns on a lifted vehicle. It also helps give your suspension more downward force in increasing articulation and keeping traction.
  49. 3 points
    Lol. Every time I see one on the road I wave and they just stare at me like wtf is up with this dude.
  50. 3 points
    Some action shots I received from my neighbor when we had our snow storm back in January Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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