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  1. 8 points
    Like Hawairish mentioned earlier, Ive started working with him on the design of these brackets. He sent me the data to punch out a set, using his current iteration, so I can start mock up on my rig and work with him on the R&D end. I have a chunk of time coming up and plan to push on this project so I can finally get rid of the XJ bumper and help however I can to get these on the market!
  2. 5 points
    Server Move NPORA Forum has moved to a new server due to the size of our database. The server system that we've been on since May of 2012 suited our needs until just over a year ago, when we were originally contacted by our host regarding the amount of system resources we were using. Since that system was a shared server, NPORA's growth had started to impact other websites on that server. Some of you may remember the "There's a problem with the database" errors that started a little over a year ago? That was due to us being temporarily blocked from the database server due to excessive resource usage. Since then we've been doing manual database maintenance every 1-4 days to keep within our limits but it was a loosing battle. We were able to lower our resource usage, thus lessening the impact on other sites and preventing almost all automatically enforced access restrictions, but since the database grows daily we basically came to a tipping point where the host would have been forced to permanently block our access. As a result we have transferred the entire site and database to a virtual private server with dedicated recourses. Now if we over use we affect only ourselves and no other websites. Although this does come at a higher cost, with a little luck it will serve us well for another 5+ years! Forum Upgrade In addition to the move talked about above, we also used this as an opportunity to upgrade the forum software. The old forum version worked great the way it was, so we put off upgrading and having to deal with changes, potential problems and features no longer being available. However, just like with the older server system, this was not sustainable in the long term. The old version had gone out of official support by IPS some time ago so when problems did arise we had no choice but to resolve them ourselves. If something had happened that required far more technical help, that help was no longer offered by IPS. So it was a risk by staying with it. The other thing that was no longer available, were security updates and with the constant reports of new malicious attacks happening, that in it self was a big risk. We are now on the most current available version of the forum software and as you have already noticed, quite a few things have changed. Beginning with version 4.0 IPS did a complete rewrite of the software so in the background many things work differently than before. As a result some visible features also act differently or are simply no longer available. We have managed to restore most of the function that we've all become accustomed too. But there are a few things you should know. No longer can accounts have separate Login and Display names. During the upgrade Login names were merged into the Display names on all accounts leaving the Display name only. So if you used to login with a name different from the one displayed on your profile and posts, you will need to use the Display name to sign in. To help minimize account lockouts, logging in using the email address linked to your account can also be used. The password is the same it. Friends / Followers Instead of friends, the new forum features followers. You now have the ability to follow another Member without that being automatically reciprocal. Previous friends were not converted to followers. Avatars Some Members Avatars did not make it through the upgrade process. We will slowly go through member my member and attempt to restore those images, but this is a very time consuming manual process and is not a high priority at this time. You are of course welcome to update the image yourself by clicking the photo icon on your avatar from your profile page. While your there, you can also add a cover photo on your profile, give it a try! Themes We've added a dark theme, which you can choose at the bottom of the page. Give it a try, let us know what you think. But a heads up, some people may fine that certain menu's could be a little harder to read. Sidebar They made a lot of changes to the sidebar, along with adding locations above (not currently used here) and below the main forum listings that act in much the same way. You' noticed that those items on the right do appear differently. For whatever reason IPS removed the ability to reply from the sidebar to Status Updates. Since many here use that, we did some searching and found a developer that restored similar functionality, but it definitely does display differently. Anniversaries We've been unable to find a Forum Anniversaries plugin similar to what we had at the bottom of the page. So far now that feature is no longer present. Member Country Flags These are the flags that appeared below your avatars in posts. There is no compatible version of the addon for the current forum software. There was also no easy method of removing the entry (addon was poorly written) so the entry, without a flag image is still present. We will look into manually editing that line out at a later date. Member Map The Member Map that we use here is a 3rd party addon application and it has changed a few times in the years we've been using it. With the current version, the background map has once again changed. However, the new version allows a selection of maps to be used, giving Members some ability to customize the view. It seems that all of the existing markers made it through the upgrade, but please take a minute to verify your marker if you had previously placed one. If you didn't, now is a perfect time to add one! Tapatalk - Resolved, For Now Tapatalk has always been a problem for us. It seldom works after a forum software upgrade (some times not for months), seldom works right after a Tapatalk software upgrade and never gets immediate support when problems do arise. Right now, Tapatalk does not work and there is nothing we can do about it at this time. This is a problem on Tapatalks side and we've submitted a support request. As soon as they can figure out the issue, or as is often the case, upgrade their software to be compatible, we will restore it's function. Until then I encourage you to use a mobile web browser to access NPORA. They really do work well and offer full or nearly full functionality. You can also use the Desktop view (or similar) and have the fully functional web view of the forum. We will update this entry with more, as needed. Please use this thread to report any issues you find or to talk about things you like. If we talk about the new forum features openly, then everyone will become more familiar with it even faster
  3. 4 points
    Welcome !... For your abs issues, if you do not have obd2 reader that reads them, you can always revert to the manual way... here`s how to retrieve the abs code for your 2001 : SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE NABR0097S02 1. Drive vehicle over 30 km/h (19 MPH) for at least one minute. 2. Turn ignition switch OFF. SBR665E 3. Ground terminal 9 of data link connector with a suitable harness. 4. Turn ignition switch ON while grounding terminal 9. Do not depress brake pedal. SBR676E 5. After 3.0 seconds, the warning lamp starts flashing to indicate the malfunction code No. (See NOTE.) 6. Verify the location of the malfunction with the malfunction code chart. Refer to BR-54. Then make the necessary repairs following the diagnostic procedures. 7. After the malfunctions are repaired, erase the malfunction codes stored in the control unit. Refer to BR-42. 8. Rerun the self-diagnostic results mode to verify that the malfunction codes have been erased. 9. Disconnect the check terminal from the ground. The self-diagnostic results mode is now complete. 10. Check warning lamp for deactivation after driving vehicle over 30 km/h (19 MPH) for at least one minute. 11. After making certain that warning lamp does not come on, test the ABS in a safe area to verify that it functions properly. NOTE: The indication terminates after 5 minutes. However, when the ignition switch is turned from OFF to ON, the indication starts flashing again. (BR-54) below Code No. (No. of warning lamp flashes) Malfunctioning part Reference Page 12 Self-diagnosis could not detect any malfunctions. — 17 H4 G sensor and circuit BR-65 18 H1 Sensor rotor BR-56 21 H1 Front right sensor (open-circuit) BR-56 22 H1 Front right sensor (short-circuit) BR-56 25 H1 Front left sensor (open-circuit) BR-56 26 H1 Front left sensor (short-circuit) BR-56 31 H1 Rear right sensor (open-circuit) BR-56 32 H1 Rear right sensor (short-circuit) BR-56 35 H1 Rear left sensor (open-circuit) BR-56 36 H1 Rear left sensor (short-circuit) BR-56 41 Actuator front right outlet solenoid valve BR-59 42 Actuator front right inlet solenoid valve BR-59 45 Actuator front left outlet solenoid valve BR-59 46 Actuator front left inlet solenoid valve BR-59 55 Actuator rear outlet solenoid valve BR-59 56 Actuator rear inlet solenoid valve BR-59 57 H2 Power supply (Low voltage) BR-63 61 H3 Actuator motor or motor relay BR-61 63 Solenoid valve relay BR-59 71 Control unit BR-68 ABS works frequently — BR-69 Unexpected pedal action — BR-69 Long stopping distance — BR-71 ABS does not work — BR-71 Pedal vibration and noise — BR-72 Warning lamp does not come on when ignition switch is turned ON. Fuse, warning lamp bulb or warning lamp circuit Control unit BR-73 Warning lamp stays on when ignition switch is turned ON. Control unit power supply circuit Warning lamp bulb circuit Control unit or control unit connector Solenoid valve relay stuck Power supply for solenoid valve relay coil BR-75 Vehicle vibrates excessively when ABS is operating. ABS control unit to TCM circuit BR-78 H1: If one or more wheels spin on a rough or slippery road for 40 seconds or more, the ABS warning lamp will illuminate. This does not indicate a malfunction. Only in the case of the short-circuit (Code Nos. 26, 22, 32 and 36), after repair the ABS warning lamp also illuminates when the ignition switch is turned ON. In this case, drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 30 km/h (19 MPH) for approximately 1 minute as specified in “SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE”, BR-41. Check to ensure that the ABS warning lamp goes out while the vehicle is being driven. H2: The trouble code “57”, which refers to a low power supply voltage, does not indicate that the ABS control unit is malfunctioning. Do not replace the ABS control unit with a new one. BR-42 Below HOW TO ERASE SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS (MALFUNCTION CODES) NABR0097S04 1. Disconnect the check terminal from ground (ABS warning lamp will stay lit). 2. Within 12.5 seconds, ground the check terminal three times. Each terminal ground must last more than 1 second. The ABS warning lamp goes out after the erase operation has been completed. 3. Perform self-diagnosis again. Refer to BR-41. Only the startcode should appear, no malfunction codes.
  4. 3 points
    Well, it's gone! 😭 Sad to see it go, but it needed to happen. It was a great almost two years (exactly 2 years and 9 months actually). Time to move on. Hopefully I'll have another one day. I did warn the buyers that if you use AC when it's really hot like today then engine gets hot, so let's just hope they actually listen and don't use it on the drive home. By the way, I've got a pic of that CV angle, I'll put it up when I get a chance.
  5. 3 points
    That Toyota V8 is sooooooo nice, no more struggling to keep up with traffic! My wife has a GX470 which is the same thing as the V8 4Runner and it is amazing. You made a very good choice. My next vehicle will be a 97 or earlier Land Cruiser. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 3 points
    Dude you deserve the “Cleanest Pathfinder Award” and I’m pretty sure you should start a detailing business! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 2 points
    Glad you made the sale! I hope there is a forum like this one for your new vehicle. If you find one let me know. I haven’t looked for one yet for my Toyota so I’d be very interested to know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 2 points
    The only diff breather I got around to extending on my rig was the rear diff, but it was pretty easy and I think the others are the same. I just popped it off the axle, cut a small section off, reattached it, drove to the auto parts store, got 15' of generic hose that had the same inner diameter, and then routed it up the fuel filler neck; I figured if I get that deep I'll have water in my gas anyways, so water in the diff will be a minor problem at that point. Just make sure to leave enough slack in the new diff breather for the axle to droop all the way. I've heard the fitment with that snorkel is actually pretty poor, and that you're better off saving your money and putting a D21 snorkel on, since you'll have to do some custom work anyways.
  9. 2 points
    I suspect the radiator. I just went thru this same issue over the last year and my issue ended up being a plugged radiator. I even flushed my radiator with acid and it remained plugged! You can grab a radiator for fairly cheap. I would go ahead and replace it so you can rule it out. I actually was about to change my head gaskets also... but one day while it was over heating I turned off the engine and placed my hand on the radiator and the middle of the radiator was completely cold while the left and right side were blazing hot! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. 2 points
    Sad to see this awesome rig go, but hopefully it finds a good home. I kinda felt the same way about my 96, but when offered almost twice what I had into it (including purchase price), I couldn't justify turning that down! I'm sure I'll still "see you around"! Enjoy your new adventure! P.S. - if possible, can you snap a pic of your CV angle? I'm possibly going a very similar route on my 01 soon.
  11. 2 points
    The discussion regarding that is still ongoing by the staff... sorta. I just temporarily upped the time limit to 3days (72hrs) Enjoy! If anyone has a specific need to edit beyond that, feel free to contact me with details. We'll work it out
  12. 2 points
    ^What he said! Seriously, there must've been a huge amount of crap to move over. Great work and thanks for keeping this place alive! One stupid question, though. Is the edit timeout still in effect? And what's the time limit set to?
  13. 2 points
    Good luck with the yota. I may be following you soon, still debating. At least with your new rig, the aftermarket is a little more robust.
  14. 2 points
    We are aware of this....what is this? Are you just referring to the country flag thing, or is there supposed to be a pic or something in that big white space?
  15. 2 points
    The brackets will fit a QX4; same chassis. There were variances in the bumpers and bumper covers, but mounting was largely unchanged. Do you mean the bumper cover, for a hidden winch setup? If so, I've lightly explored the idea. If utilizing the same universal winch channel, it could probably be made to work by mounting the channel and winch upside down, but the OE bumper (hidden by the cover) would need to be cut or notched. The bracket sizes would also be in close contact with the bumper cover, but there's probably an easy workaround.
  16. 1 point
    Just as you finish yours I sell mine. Funny how that works. It looks fantastic, great work!
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I just remembered the guy who started this thread was supposed to send me a box of parts, I never did get those. What a guy.
  19. 1 point
    Hey Scott... you are close enough for option 2 \/ \/ \/ And those of us who have been around for a while know that your more than capable of the installation... as long as it does not require the use of fire
  20. 1 point
    I thought I was in good hands power-wise with the 3.5L in my QX4, but this V8 is a beast! Same horsepower but 60 more torque, and you can feel it. Better fuel economy too. That being said, only one power socket up front and the center console is just a giant hole...no bueno. The seat is also far too low for my liking, the R50 seat is at a nice height in my opinion. Ah well, other than those things (which I'll find a solution for the storage and I'll get used to the seating), the platform seems extremely excellent, can't wait until sometime next year when I can start modifying it!!
  21. 1 point
    If you're an R51 owner thinking about doing this, but are unsure of the quality, workmanship or reputation of Steve or his SFC products, do not hesitate! Steve is a great guy, who has produced very high quality products, paired with even higher quality customer service, for a very niche market. I can personally vouch for his R50 spacer kits and skid plates. I'm probably underestimating if I suggest that probably at least half of the lifted R50's on NPORA either are running or have run SFC products. Seeing this offer makes me wish I had an R51, as I'd be all over this! I'm very glad to see you looking to expand the line a bit, Steve!
  22. 1 point
    Well, big news folks. My R50's replacement is here, and yup, it's a Toyota. Unfortunately I determined that the rust on my QX4 was just too extreme. I could have kept it going I'm sure, but it would have became increasingly sketchy with each passing winter, (I figure 2 more would have made the vehicle potentially quite dangerous, and at least no longer trustworthy offroading) and would have been expensive and time consuming to keep together. Hopefully it will be able to sell to somebody who has some good welding skills who can keep it going for a long time. In the meantime, I've purchased a 2003 4Runner SR5 V8 with 174k miles. It has some surface rust on the frame, but other than that and a few little things it's in fantastic shape. After a few hours underneath it with POR15 and a wire brush I think it'll be able to serve my offroading and daily driving needs very well for a long time. I really don't want to have to sell my QX4, as it was my first car and has given me nearly 3 years of fantastic memories. Honestly other than rust just about everything about it is perfect in my mind, however the work to switch everything over to a clean body (let along finding one for a reasonable price) isn't worth it to me. Don't confuse this as a lightly taken decision, I've been thinking about it for about 6 months, but I made the decision to move on about two weeks ago. So far I really miss my super nice interior, but other than that I can't say that the 4th gen 4Runner disappoints in any way. This community here at NPORA has been unbelievably fantastic to me over the years. I hope to remain in contact with those of you who I have built relationships with, and beyond that I will continue to check the forum frequently so I can continue to learn and answer questions (I do intend to get a nice southern rig and build one again after I finish college) and perform my TotM mod duties; it's really the least I can do considering how awesome y'all have been. So rest assured it isn't farewell to me, but it is certainly farewell to my rig. Let's just hope I don't have the pain of seeing it in in a junkyard a couple years from now...although if I do I'll certainly stock up for the next build. ps. I'll picture dump when I get a chance. This is pretty much the last chance to request specific pictures or information that I may not be able to acquire once I don't have the rig sitting in the driveway. pps. Sorry to spoil to the new forum like this!
  23. 1 point
    Things are looking good.
  24. 1 point
    You might be right! Come on by and we'll get that taken care of!
  25. 1 point
    I have had the p1444 in the past. I believe that that code deals specifically with the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Vavle. If your engine bay looks like this than I can help: If I remember correctly than the EVAP system changed significantly half way through 98 so some 98's have the system in the picture and others have an older system. If you have the system in the picture than your problem is with the valve that I circled. Possibly a bad wiring connection or the valve itself is bad due to wear or a bad charcoal canister. To check for bad charcoal canister: You can disconnect the hoses that I traced in red in the picture and check them to see if they are clogged with pieces of charcoal. In my case, the hose closest to the valve was full of charcoal. I actually had the P1440 code first and when that cleared was left with the P1444 code but it is possible you have this problem. If there is charcoal in the lines than that means the charcoal in your canister has broken up and should be replaced. This is an easy replacement. However, when you replace the canister you should also blow out all the evap lines. There is a hardline that runs from the engine bay all the way to the back drivers side corner of the vehicle where it connects to the canister. This line should be blown out with compressed air (I used a shop vac and some duct tape to suck the charcoal out). The small rubber hoses connecting the various parts of the EVAP system should also be blown out (the hoses I traced in red and some similar hoses that connect to the EVAP canister). In my case the charcoal had clogged the Purge Volume Control Valve causing the P1444 code. I replaced it with the same valve from a 98 altima and the code cleared out. Here is a post that might help: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33018-p1440-evap-small-leak/. It took me a while to figure out which valve the P1444 was referring to. If you don't see charcoal in the lines than try checking the wiring to the valve. If you leave the hood open and turn the ignition to on (don't turn the engine on) you should be able to hear the valve click if it is working correctly. I had someone else turn the key while I listened to the valve to hear it click. Hope this helps.

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