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  1. 6 points
  2. 6 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 6 points
  4. 5 points
    I want to start by giving a huge thank you to [mention]hawairish [/mention] for his unmatched pathfinder expertise, fabrication skills, and most of all his generosity. This past weekend I headed East to visit hawairish for fun garage day. Our plan: remove OEM steps and install sliders. We started by removing the steps. (Internet pic) Once the steps were removed, we noticed how robust the mounts actually were and the round tube was much thicker than anticipated. This photo is after the mounts were cut and notched but it shows the thickness of the tube. I believe it is 10ga. After seeing the mounts we decided to change our game plan. We were no longer going to use the included slider legs and mounting plates and instead reuse the original mounts but not without beefing them up....a lot. Before we started cutting the legs we brainstormed of how we could make our idea work. We decided on making gussets from 3/16” steel. Once the plan was set, we cut the legs, cleaned them up, and notched them to fit slider main tube. Here’s the driver’s slider ready to be tacked on. Once tacked we removed slider and got to work on the gussets. Hawairish sketching up the gussets Gusset cut and welded A complete slider ready to mount. Notice the beefy legs Slider fully welded and mounted When we had finished with the installation, we looked at the step left over after we cut the legs. We realized we could actually separate the top plate that holds the plastic step from the channel that was welded to legs. This is our end result. The plate welded onto slider. Hawairish has to cut the plate above the kickout to keep it level. I had to cut a small section to accommodate the kickout of the slider. Installed and compete. The step sticks out about 3” more than OEM which is great! Underside of slider Obviously we had to test these bad boys. Absolutely zero deflection no matter where we lifted. [mention]hawairish [/mention] is the artist in his family I must say it was a lot if work but I am more than happy with the outcome. Two long days of custom fabrication really wore us out, not to mention the temp was 108 degs. Next time I’m in town we’re wheeling and I’m breaking these in. Sent from my Pathfinder
  5. 5 points
    New addition to the family Four months later - overhauled, lifted and dressed up
  6. 5 points
    Been a while since this thread has had some attention.. Since my last post, I (we), with @hawairish & @Rockit, installed a front Lokka and a repacked lsd. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the diffs or install, that weekend was crazy. We did about three 15+ hour days working on rockit's truck installing front and rear ARB lockers, compressor, struts, coils, spacers, cv axles (installed & removed like 10 times). I'm not sure how hawairish still had the patience and energy to still work on my truck. Here’s a pic of hawairish’s work stand. I've also installed a cb radio with 4' antenna on the spare tire carrier. Uniden cmx760 firestik 2 with K4-8r18 cable I also have a couple of pending items: sliders and ARB compressor mounted in engine bay. Hopefully I remember to get some photos of those.
  7. 5 points
    More footage from a trail day yesterday, conquered some obstacles that I couldn’t before the lokka.
  8. 5 points
  9. 4 points
  10. 4 points
    These are what you’re looking for: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981107-pathfinder-lowering-coils.html
  11. 4 points
    Did this with my stock 03 pathfinder 4WD But plan on getting the LR NRC9449 coils in the rear with Bilstein shocks and ome coils in the front.
  12. 4 points
    I’m going to be at the junkyard tomorrow morning tearing apart as many r50 cv axles as are available for measurements. Sent from my Pathfinder
  13. 4 points
    My 2001 LE CV Brand/PN: OReilly's Import Direct/NI8185 Markings: "KAI 025" on the outer cup band. Has a smooth round outer cup Strut Brand/PN: KYB-335032 & KYB-335033 Spacers: SFD w 4.75" strut spacers + OME HD coils Binding: 0 currently, had 2" spacers on top of the OME HD when I first lifted the truck before installing my SFD and broke 2 CV axles but never observed issues at full droop though there was likely some Pines to Spines 2003 LE "Gambler" CV Brand/PN: uknown Markings: none Strut Brand/PN: unkown Spacers: Pines to Spines 4" SFD Binding: 0 I currently have 3 sets of CV's to look at- My 2001 which has new units from ORielly's, a used set of what @02_Pathy thought were OEM and the set on the Gambler, which look identical to the assumed OEM set. The biggest difference I can tell right away is the entirely smooth and round outer cup on the OReilly part whereas the "OEM" units have a step in the casting. Assuming the 190K 2003 Gambler has never had a CV replaced and @02_Pathy really did replace OEM units I think this may be an identifying trait? Also worth noting- @02_Pathy installed a brand of CV I've never heard of and has had no issues since, although they have the same part number as the new OReilly units in my 2001 and could just be a re-branded part. He gave me the "OEM" units in their boxes
  14. 4 points
    1 week update: So I finally got around to getting the alignment fixed. I gave the shop guy 4 camber bolts to work with and he only needed 2. The tires a little quieter now they aren't riding on the outside corner of the tread. Something I've noticed is that at highway speeds, I can hear a noise from what I think is the transfer case when the hubs are unlocked. The noise is similar to a worn out bearing or something. It's very faint and can't be heard unless passengers are quiet and the music is low/off. I can't hear it below 55 mph though. No 4x4 warning lights yet. So I took it wheeling on some moderate stuff nearby in Missouri. With the bigger tires and more ground clearance it took some of the excitement out of the easy stuff as it wasn't much different than driving a car down a dirt road. Struts didn't top out much and never dragged anything over rocks. I got a bit ambitious and tried to go up a steep, off camber hill with sloppy mud, peppered with embedded rocks and tight trees on either side. I almost made it to the top but ultimately got the tires hung on rocks and it crab walked about 6 inches sideways into a tree. I used a hi-lift jack as a winch to pull the rest of the way up. So the silver lining of that trip was, that I found the limits of the tires on mud... That's burned into my memory. I also found no issues with the suspension components and the cv axles held up on rocks just fine. Also, I carried an adult passenger, two kids and a bit of weight consisting of tools, spare cv axle, chains, coolers and drinks. The NRC9449s didn't even show they were doing double duty. I can now compare this ride to a stock xterra with the same exact tires and say this r50 is now superior as it sits higher therefore giving me about the same approach, departure and breakover angles. The r50 articulates better but the slightly longer wheelbase makes turns between tight trees a bit trickier when inches matter. The offset of the new wheels makes more vehicle to squeeze between trees but several times, the wide tires made an effective bumper which kept the tree an inch away from my fender flares as the tires stick out now. In a few days, I'm going to take it to an offroad park to get a better feel for it as there is more diverse difficulty and the density of the terrain is much better.
  15. 4 points
    Not to be rude but this is the most posted about topic on this forum. If you use the search you’ll find a plethora of options. I suggest looking into the land rover springs. 9447 springs specifically.
  16. 3 points
    I almost forgot to mention I also installed an arb onboard air compressor. Hawairish cut the plate and I gave it some awkward bends to make it fit. Sent from my Pathfinder
  17. 3 points
    Junkyard bump stops, or consider Old Man Emu rear springs, which will handle load well while only lifting the vehicle a little (0.5-1”)
  18. 3 points
    So... Working in SE BC for a while and went to check out the local wrecker to grab some spare headlamps and such. Look what I found! The gate is immaculate so has already replaced my mostly rusty gate and can’t wait to get home and refurbish that carrier and hopefully mount this summer or fall. Was a little hard to get that mounted by myself but ratchet straps for the win haha. Interior LED conversion also mostly done save for some warning lamps. Heading back early next week to grab the leading edge of the roof skin and some other goodies. CV axles still good with OME MD and 1” spacer.
  19. 3 points
    Alright folks, let's try this again with some updates. I figured Amazon pictures would work as a host for my pics, but I guess not - oh well, continuing this thread with Photobucket!: This is what I started with: the vehicle was just a pretty stock manual XE model. It had some pretty bad rust spots on the rockers that needed to be re-worked. Thought about buying just some slip-on rockers, but decided that it would be good to have a little experience with patch panels. As you can tell, the rust wasn't HORRIBLE, but it definitely needed to be repaired. Once everything was welded up, I used some paintable caulk to seal the gaps between the rocker and the fender. And same thing on the driver's side (featuring some fiberglass filler): I had to sand the hood down to metal (practically everywhere), as the rock chips had started light rusting: I bought some new rims for it. Just some standard Chevy six-lug rims, wrapped with 33's. These were the tires that came with the rims. Super worn out, so I decided to get some new rubbers. I went with a 32x11.5 tire, in hopes that it would fit under the fenders a bit better. I love how tiny the stock wheels look compared to the 33's. Ha! And the new tires (featuring my ominous shadow): Next up was the painting process. Yes, I painted this in my driveway. Definitely a 'redneck' way of painting, but I think it turned out pretty well! Used a House of Kolor primer/sealer, and painted the inner door jams and inner doors first: Once the "interior paint" was done, I put the doors back on, and put everything relatively back together so that I could focus on exterior paint. Again, primed/sealed the body with the HoK and used TCP Global Ginger Metallic for the single-stage enamel. I highly recommend that paint. This is the second time I've used their paint, and have had absolutely no complaints about them (though I often am found complaining about the guns or some dust - or in this case, a wasp - that found it's way into the paint): Once the paint was on, it was time to focus on sound. Replaced the stock 5x7 speakers with CT sounds speakers. The head unit was replaced with a Pioneer MVH-S310BT Bluetooth stereo (so that I could jam out to some AC/DC and Dynazty on Spotify, of course). I did a professional wire kit (none of this through-the-fender-and-doorjam bs) and slapped my old Sony sub paired with a Volfenhag amp. It's an old setup, and isn't the loudest or proudest, but I still love that combo. I don't have many pictures of the sound system, sorry. After that, it was time to move on to coating the frame with POR15 paint. I should have taken pictures of myself on this one, because it was a sight to behold. Let me tell you something: that POR15 will take a layer of skin off if you try to peel it off too soon. Which is very problematic when you get it on your whole body (including face). Highly recommend that stuff, but highly recommend not getting any on you or anything you don't wish to be permanently black. Once all that was done, I moved on to getting the wheels/tires. sandblasted and powdercoated (charcoal grey) the rims. That was a miserable experience. I highly recommend taking items in to be sandblasted. I had sand in crevices on my body that I didn't even know I had. And once those were on, the fun began of mounting the bumpers. The rear bumper was no problem. The front bumper, though, was a challenge. The 3" bumper relocation brackets that were sold in the kit had to be fairly heavily modified in order to fit. Oh well - that's part of the fun, right? I also fabricated a new rear license plate holder, as the old one wouldn't fit with the bumper and lift kit. And one of the final steps I had was the shift boot. As you all are probably well-aware, the stock boots don't work well with a lift kit. So to remedy this, I bent the 4x4 shifter, but left the manual shifter as is. I originally thought I could use a larger sewn boot (3rd picture) and tuck under the carpet. However, that looked a bit ridiculous, so I went a different route: cut a diamond plate sheet and bent it to match the curvature of the well. I then sewed the shift boot from faux gator skin, used a screw-in grommet on the top (as a finisher), and bought some new knobs. Behold, the shift boot shenanigans: And last but not least: the graphics. I owe a huge debt to my dad who helped me with some of the cutting/designing of the graphics. The back part (where it is flat at the top) needs to be re-designed and re-cut, but overall it turned out pretty nice. We are also going to be doing a hood graphic here in the next few weeks: Some other mentions that may not be pictured: I highly recommend fluid film as a rust-preventative in the rockers and fender areas. It doesn't take but 5 minutes to pop off the scuff guards and spray some FF down into the rockers. Pretty easy. I also ordered stainless M6-1.0 16mm flanged bolts on Amazon for pretty cheap. I found it very beneficial to spray just a tiny bit of Fluid Film on the stainless bolts to ensure nothing is getting rusted/stuck. I broke about 50,000 of the old bolts off, simply due to rust, age, and over torque from previous work. Next on the to-do list for this vehicle: headers/exhaust, roof basket rack, and steering components (I have new inner/outer tie rods, centerlink, and some other goodies coming in the mail in the next few days). And that's about it, folks. I have about 300 hours of cutting, welding, sewing, cursing, pleading, and some good ol' quality dad/son time into this since March. I hope you all enjoyed! Let me know if there are any questions or if I can help with anything.
  20. 3 points
    You want to replace the shocks because they will bottom out since the resting height of the vehicle will already be much lower with those springs. You’d want a shorter shock with smaller compressed length. Sent from my Pathfinder
  21. 3 points
    Hi , this is Sultan from United arab Emirates.. origin from yemen.. a marine ambulance responder.. father of three kids.. a proud owner of a black pathfinder R50 SE 3.5 gcc specifications.. 3 years so far.. mods done are : - 2” lovells HD springs lift - front lokka locker - repacked LSD - nafara d22 snorkel - 1” SFD All done by me .. been following on facebook but decided to do it right and join this forum.. thanks to all https://ibb.co/sqMsvth
  22. 3 points
    15” procomp wheels with 32x11.5 mt tires. We’re currently in a roof rack swap from SE to LE, but I’m kind of enjoying this sleek look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. 3 points
    Cascade Creek road today. Pretty rocky in some spots but not bad at all
  24. 3 points
    My dad was in town so the two pathy generations visited Estes Park today. We tried to go up Pole Hill Road, but bailed when it started raining hard. The first stretch was much rockier than it seemed in videos and it was pushing his stock height to the limit. Mine probably could have made it all the way with some decent line selection, but we decided a drier day would be better. We ended up just taking some dirt roads up to a random trailhead and doing a bit of hiking
  25. 3 points
    That was both odd and a huge bummer because we were using @hawairish truck to tour the state parks and ruins. Heard the noise after a relatively flat and smooth FS road around Sedona. Found the swaybar snapped clean and was dangling. There was a vastly different and unstable feeling at freeway speeds in turns. Upon leaving Sedona we hit 17 which is a couple hours from PHX and mostly downhill if I remember correctly. The initial lean isn't the concerning part, its the opposing "sway" the springs have which causes a back and forth motion compounded by driver input to correct it. Kinda like speed wobbles on a skateboard, except slower. I'm glad you have replaced it. I know a lot of folks like to take the rear sway bar off for supposed increase in rear axle articulation but that just isn't the case with these rigs. I have retained my sway bar as has @hawairish and I can flex as much as folks without it, if not more due to my extended rear trailing arms. For something that's used strictly on the trails there wouldn't be an issue but for anything that has to drive to the trails, let alone serves as a daily/only vehicle its a huge gamble and could have disastrous results. #GetYourSwayOn
  26. 3 points
    I'll start with these setups: CV Brand/PN: Cardone 66-6185 (New) Markings: "6185 20/04" (presuming date code of 04/2020) Strut Brand/PN: OME N145S/N146S Strut Spacers: 3" (w/ 3" SFD) Binding: 3-Severe CV Brand/PN: unknown Markings: none Strut Brand/PN: KYB 335032/335033 Spacers: 3" (w/ 3" SFD) Binding: 0-none
  27. 3 points
    If your R50 is stock, neither left or right CV axle should be able to turn without the wheels turning. They use a splined drive flange bolted to the wheel hub. If you are wanting to unlock the axles from the wheels, you will need to replace the drive flanges with locking hubs from a WD21 Pathfinder, or V6 D21 pickup. First gen Xterra and Frontier are another possibility. Unless you get lucky, what you will find on these trucks are auto hubs. If you want manual, you will need to look to the aftermarket.
  28. 3 points
    Gwin had an interview where he said he clears $1M per year including endorsements. But if you think about it, he's getting paid less than he deserves (being the fastest rider on earth) considering how much he puts on the line. But DH is not a popular sport, so there. Here's Gwin on your actual bike... he rode it like he stole it... lol!
  29. 3 points
    Mine snapped back in Feb, just like that, when @TowndawgR50 had the truck. He can probably attest to the usefulness of it coming down the mountain on the curvy sections of I-17.
  30. 3 points
    When i bought the truck the seats on both sides were torn typical on our year models. So i just quickly fixed them. Before and Afters. Sorry for the bad photos these were dealer photos thought i took some of my own but don't see them? Passenger Driver
  31. 3 points
    Oh, quick other little update- I got rid of my 4 front facing lights in the lower bumper. They weren't improving light output, and I wasn't in love with the look. Here's a look at the "updated" front end from a fun little trail run yesterday evening. And a cool picture of the jeep and the terrain for good measure.
  32. 3 points
    In 2007, I was looking for a Jeep Cherokee and kept coming up short. Asking prices were too high, AC didn't work, and they weren't comfortable for someone over 6 feet tall. On the way home one evening after I was out looking, I came across this 2001 Pathfinder for sale and bought it that night. I drove it for 9 years, did a bunch of off roading, put nearly 100,000 miles on it, and then regrettably sold it, stupidly thinking I didn't need it anymore. I never was able to make it into what I wanted it to be, but it was always extremely reliable, comfortable, and I got a ton of use out of the cargo space in it. Earlier this year, I was bored and browsing Craigslist and found this 02 for sale nearby for $2800. 150k miles, super clean other than some small cosmetic issues and a little bit of interior wear. It has a factory LSD too! I bought it and spent the next few weeks hitting every junkyard in the area to fix all the little issues. I even found the factory Bose radio for it with a working 6 disc changer and tape deck. With the help of NPORA, I bought all the parts to lift it and overhauled the suspension. It's now sitting on OME springs (MD rear, HD front), KYB shocks/struts, and 265/70/16 Duratracs. It has a WD21 transfer case skid plate underneath and I installed Warn hubs, a CB radio, and a Yakima Load Warrior. I'd much prefer one of the lower profile roof racks in the pictures here, can anyone point me in the right direction to get one? I'm glad to have a good overlanding vehicle again. It's been a lot of fun putting it together. I've been a total lurker up to this point, but thank you all for the mountains of info I was able to dig through to get it to where it is now. Next mods are probably more skid plates and some rock sliders. I also have a buddy selling his 93 XE...so pretty soon I may have two Pathfinders!
  33. 3 points
    No roof rack no spoiler Guess I’ll be trying my hand at painting the hood in the near future... unless I find a good one at the yard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  34. 2 points
    The other week up near Nahatlach! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  35. 2 points
  36. 2 points
    I can confirm that this works. You don't even have to take the module entirely out. The illumination lights for the panel are on the top left and right centre and are easy to access through the double DIN for the head unit. Just did it.
  37. 2 points
    The manual transfer case will grind if you're slow to shift between low and high range, even with the transmission in neutral. There's enough drag in the transmission clutches to spin the output if it's not being held by anything, and when the transfer is in neutral, there's nothing holding it. If you're slow, it spins up and grinds when you try to couple it to the transfer output, which isn't spinning. If you linger in neutral, and it won't to back into gear without grinding, you can shut the engine off, finish the shift, and then restart. It shouldn't grind if you're quick about it. I've fumbled and barked mine a few times, but if you shift quickly from low to high, and it grinds anyway, every time, then yeah, something ain't right. The 4x light not going out as soon as you move the shifter isn't unusual either. When you move the stick back to 2HI, you're not actually pushing the selector out of 4x, you're allowing a spring to return it. I think this is to prevent you from reefing on the shifter when the transfer is under load (or torque-bound) and damaging the shift fork or the splines (like trying to pull a manual out of gear without letting off the gas or pressing the clutch). You move the stick when you want, and the selector should pop back when the load across it is released. My '95 was balky about disengaging 4x until I changed the transfer case fluid, after which it was fine. I don't know what percentage of R50s burn oil, but I know my dad's '03 did. I never opened it up, so I don't know if the screws fell in or the valve stem seals were shot or the bores were tapered or what was wrong with it, but the damn thing used a quart/1k miles before it had 100k on it. He had no idea it was burning oil until he noticed the lifters making noise and checked the oil level. The dealer certainly didn't mention it. (I assume the oil consumption was why someone traded it in, and I doubt they said anything, either.) I can understand being skeptical of a rebuilt engine, but if whoever rebuilt it knew what they were doing, it might still be worth considering. They may well have done a better job than Nissan did. The VQ R50 slushbox is a good unit from what I've heard. I haven't heard any complaints about the manual, either, though if it's the same box the earlier trucks used, you have to be careful about what kind of oil you put in it. A more basic truck with manual controls means there's less to go wrong, which is not a downside IMO. Speaking of which, the '03-'04 trucks got drive-by-wire throttle bodies. My dad's '03 had just enough throttle lag to piss me off. If I had to get a VQ, I'd look for an earlier one. Look for rust around the front strut towers, that was a big issue on the R50s. Good luck!
  38. 2 points
    Scored some 31x10.5 mts on wheels for 70 bucks and stuck some 7in leds on the bush guard
  39. 2 points
    Awesome, @PathyDude17! I totally forgot about the round inner joint flanges; perhaps that's the easiest indicator of early model CVs. Am noticing your first CVs have the same style shaft as mine. Wish I knew if mine were OE or not...I only know the boots were replaced previously. I rebuilt one of mine the other month (and hated every minute of it), but can't seem to find the pics I took. I vowed to never rebuild another one, but with this discovery and the fact that I'm sitting on spare boots, I may need to face the music and rebuild the other. I've been wanting to keep a spare CV for off-road use, but I can't move forward on that until I have an answer about these. I may just end up bringing an angle finger to the JY and finding the right set.
  40. 2 points
    Thanks @fleurys for chiming in. I especially wanted you to see this because I've seen some of the complaints on FB and they're totally unwarranted; there are simply "bad" CVs out there that will bind with with the slightest amount of lift. Hopefully this post becomes a means to identify them beforehand. Thanks, too, @mjotrainbrain. Rebuilding OEM CVs seems like the way to go, and I think that's why remanufactured CVs will be hit or miss since they might be made from OEM parts. I doubt we'll ever have a shop specializing in OEM rebuilds...the market's not there, and there may not be a good way to identify them. I'm hoping someone with a genuine part can shed light on identifiers. (@RainGoat, were yours ever changed?). I was also just reading up on Nissan's Value Advantage parts line-up and it reads like the CVs are all new but perhaps aftermarket..."a quality product validated by Nissan Engineers". At 4x-5x the cost of an aftermarket, I'd hope these are the "good" CVs. I refrained from mentioning it in the 1st post {puts on tin foil hat}, but what if this is a conspiracy by the aftermarket to sell more CVs but producing a product that can't range as well as OEM? That's defective in my book. Since Nissan still lists one CV to cover all R50 applications, I doubt the part number change they made in between was to lessen the angle range. Otherwise, it would surely fail on the early model. If the aftermarket is supposed to build to OE specs, several degrees off seems like a major oversight. It's nonsense to have an aftermarket CV that binds on an OE-spec strut, even a little, and that's defective in my book. I also wonder if it affects 1st gen Frontiers and Xterras...the only difference between those CV and ours is the shaft length (ours are shorter). The joints, bearings, and boots are all identical. Probably not an issue on those trucks because the only way to induce binding is with longer UCAs, and if they have as much wheel travel as ours, the longer shaft means they have lower operating angles. Anyway, don't dive into the conspiracy theory here, but just something to think about.
  41. 2 points
    I will chime in...even though I have tried to skip the subject because there is alot of "experts" on facebook and all that have their opinions and people that know me, knows that i'm not a big fan of arguing over a keyboard.. Some would say I lack diplomacy ..but i'll give it a shot Lifting a an ifs front with either stiffer springs or spacers does exactly the same thing to the half-shaft...which is to accentuate the angle.. I have said it many times, the quality of the half-shaft is essential and I am glad that someone actually made some tests and measurements... Thank you !... I have run my first trail pathy hard as I had 2 arb lockers installed on it and I ran at first the ac coils, then my spacers (2.5") and I never had binding in them. mind you they were OEM Nissan... One thing I did was to change the neoprene boots with thermoplastics ones made by rockford...I actually made a post about that explaining how I made them add this boot to their catalog...that's another story.. The only time I broke something with a cv was doing a full send climb, locked all 4 on a steep hill and my right tire got stuck in a rut while having the skinny pedal floored... that ended up in the halfshaft snapping in two.... not the cv joint....the shaft... you can barely hear it at the end :https://photos.smugmug.com/Trail-gazoduc-4-jours-juillet-2010/i-FrTDTBn/0/bf7a4533/640/broken-cv-640.mp4 That being said, I also did limiting straps on my struts in order to prevent too low of a drop..therefore saving the over extension... I have over 1000 kits sold and of course my kits are for the beginner off-roader that don't want to break the bank in order to start...but I have demonstrated that with some modifications (limiting straps, thermoplastic boots and good oem quality half-shaft), you can go a long way. That's all i'm gonna say as I just wanted to share my opinion and experience... I'm sure others will have something to say about this and I will respect that. Bringing a product to market is not an easy thing...there is always some that will say why it is crap and why it will not work or it cost too much etc... All I have to said to you is bravo and keep at it if you believe in it. I'm sure you'll end up with a great kit to sell and i'll be the first one to refer you guys when your kit is ready for primetime. S.
  42. 2 points
    Yep, I am the one that posted the starter mod. Did that back when AC was Nissan only and had an active discussion forum. Still have the diagram I drew up stashed away in a dusty corner of my hard drive. I much less savvy these days and a hard time figuring out how to do pictures, but can email. Basically what I did with my Pathfinder was seperate the connector I mentioned before. I then used a standard Bosch style 30 amp relay. The harness side black/violet wire went to terminal 85 on the relay. Ran a wire from terminal 86 to ground(the coil is non polarized so can be reversed, works the same). Ran a 12 gauge wire from the positive terminal of the battery to terminal 30 on the relay. Finally, the black/violet wire going to the starter was attached to terminal 87. The relay will reliably operate down to 6 volts, so it covered the problem that was in my ignition switch. When the relay triggered, it fed full battery power through the very short circuit between the battery and starter. I still have a relay in there to run the starter but these days it is fired by the keyless ignition I installed.
  43. 2 points
    The starting issues are among the most common on these older vehicles and are rarely the starter. The problem seems to be with older wiring and not being able to carry enough current to complete the circuit. There is a mod that bypasses some of the long circuit and allows power to be delivered to the starter directly by tripping a relay that requires only minimal voltage input. It used to be posted in the How to's section I believe about 10 years ago. Yeah, some of us have been around that long :{ I think it mightve been posted up by 88pathoffroad since he did the headlight mod. ( same issue with old wiring making headlights dimmer over time) By using relays can transferr power to lights directly from alty or battery giving brighter lights) An easy test for your starter is to jump it directly from the battery. If it cranks it aint the starter and likelly you will benefit from the relay mod. Search on here for it. If you cant find it let me know and I will take pictures of how it looks in my truck. I couldn't find it when I just searched ( there are 250+ pages of starter issues) Perhaps one of the long time members or mods has it archived and can resurrect it and pin it to the How Tos where it rightly belongs. Mr. Reverse has it right as far as testing. The relay mod involves dividing those wires and installing the relay which will trip with much less voltage. Actually, now that i think about it, I think the mod was posted by Mr. Reverse !
  44. 2 points
    Been offline for a bit, just catching up, but looks like that hitch setup will work for your needs. Several years ago, I grabbed an old rear hitch off a friends Expedition he was getting ready to junk, cut oi down to size and welded it to those same tow hook/tie down brackets, reinforced with some beefy angle iron. I use mine year round, Snowsport utility plow for my driveway in winter and cargo/cooler/fishing pole rack in the summer and its held up great! Nice use of ingenuity! Nice bikes too!
  45. 2 points
    Forgot what day this was, Butt shot with the swapped over 02 Pathfinder LE cross bars ( Removed chrome roof rack cross bar in backround) and taillight guards.
  46. 2 points
    Congrats ! *Pending official border. *Send any member of the Mod team two additional pictures and they will be added here.
  47. 2 points
    Took the truck home, swapped over the wheel/light bar from the Pathy and started cleaning everything, from de greasing the engine, washing it to carpets etc. also removed the driver side running board with your typical rusting. Considering the rust on it, the rocker panels were in good condition.Cleaned and Sprayed some fluid film) I had a set of non rusted running boards ready but they were silver so it needed to be painted. Removed Chrome Roof Rack Steamed Clean Carpets Sunroof Drain Clean Interior Temp Sensor End of the day
  48. 2 points
  49. 2 points
  50. 2 points

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