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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Hello, a lot of you may have already seen this but I designed a fold and weld bumper kit. There are still some little adjustments that need to be addressed and I won't be able to test it with a winch for quite some time. Anyway, I wanted to see if there was any interest in the kit being sold, the price would likely be near the $500 mark. Side Note: It has been quite some time since I have been on here. The new layout is much more user-friendly, so props to those of you that worked to make that happen.
  2. 7 points
    Alright! I got the AC installed the other weekend, and it is GREAT! Fired up the plasma cutter to do some by-hand cuts last week, and tonight I cut my very first pieces on the plasma table! Nothing special, just some mounting tabs for a bracket to hold up a massive ventilation fan that @TowndawgR50 hooked me up with. Getting the rest of the ventilation pieces tomorrow, and will hopefully weld up the fan bracket and get things installed over the weekend. I think that's the last item on my list to complete the garage-to-workshop conversion...well, could use a TV in here, maybe move my mini-fridge from the other garage, some more lighting....anyway, details. Over the weekend, I also got around to converting all my original parts and some V2 modifications into the CAD/CAM application I was hoping to use for both my CNC router and plasma table. The application (Autodesk Fusion 360) is very frustrating, to say the least. Some issues are surely learning curve induced, and it might get me where I need to be in time, but I'm going to explore some other options first. Notably, it allowed me to cut my parts tonight, so at least I know we're heading in the right direction.
  3. 7 points
    Well, looks like we're fast approaching September... The bad news is that early/mid August goal didn't happen. The good news, though, is that the conversion of garage to shop is progressing well. I added several new circuits the other week, finished installing an air compressor and lines (I #@$%^& hate pneumatics) this week, and finally put the plasma table through its first cycle (no cutting, though) the other night. The heat in the garage has became too unbearable, so I dropped some coin for a mini-split AC, which I'll be installing this weekend. Then, lastly (ugh, I hope), I'll put in a fume extraction/ventilation system. I can't explain the anxiety I've had from having to drill so many holes into the outside of my stucco house. The grand finale will be a 6" one...still building up courage for that one. Bottom line is that I'm getting there! I hit up the steel shop the other week to grab various plate scraps for some initial cuts once things are ready. I've not looked into any actual material costs yet, though, so will still need to come up with pricing numbers for those interested. As before, stay tuned. This is gonna happen.
  4. 5 points
    Finally put mine on, was a little harder than I thought it was going to be. It does have a bracket on the pillar. Also it does not sit flush with the pillar.
  5. 5 points
    For brackets, I'm also looking into making a small metal brake or finger press brake for my floor press to make some bends. Hood hinge mounts are something on my list of things to make. Yeah, the spots vs flood vs clear vs color also boil down to usage...a "what do you need to see, and how soon?" assessment comes to mind. If you're speeding through desert trails at dusk, spots. Crawling, floods. Forested fire roads, maybe spots for straight-ahead, and floods for forest line/periphery. Some brands also support clip-on color lenses. The wiring is actually pretty simple. Although the wiring kits simplify the installation, they're not usually the path I take because they're too universal...you usually have to plan for the inline fuse to be accessible, a certain location to mount the relay, hiding excess cable length (or worse, insufficient cable length). But, the electrical connection itself is very simple. The best advice I can give with it comes to electrical connections is to consider ALL of the future (and even current) devices in the truck, then build a solution that makes connecting and adding circuits easier, safer, and cleaner. I personally can't stand rats nests of wiring, which is essentially what you get when you add something here, then something there, then something something something. Particularly in the case of adding external lighting, planning ahead is a must if you need to drill into any part of the vehicle. For a single light bar, you might be able to snake a cable along the windshield under the seal, but if you're adding multiple lights, drilling a hole in the roof might be the best/only approach...plan accordingly! Blue Sea makes some nice fused distribution blocks, great for relay and non-relay applications, but there are some simpler/cheaper fuse blocks out there. If you plan to add multiple LED lighting circuits, take a look at some multi-relay circuit boards meant for Arduino/RPi stuff (some support 12V/10A applications, . Nice, clean, and cheap (not that standalone relays aren't dirt cheap). Even if you only plan to add one lightbar, make your own relay distribution hub to support extra relays. Keep in mind that some low-wattage lights can be supported by relay-less circuits, so long as the switch supports the amperage (watts/voltage=amps), which can simplify circuits even further. Bottom line is that it's easier and better to run a single power lead from the battery to a distribution point, than it is to run a bunch of wire directly off the battery.
  6. 5 points
    And...she passed inspection, all of I monitors checked. I only had to put in a bank 1 sensor 2 o2 sensor. The only other major bug to work out is rear driveshaft vibration above 50mph. Once I figure that out I am calling the recovery portion done and will move on to building it for overland.
  7. 5 points
    She moved under her own power. Still more work to do, but a couple of quarts of tranny fluid, replace the diff fluid, and I may drive her to work.
  8. 4 points
    Find a new shop. Stephen Pearson probably deals mainly with Jeeps, and always has issues with Nissans and Toyotas because he doesn’t know what he’s doing. Absolutely no practical difference between those trucks and any other trucks. No joke, shop elsewhere, or risk this guy screwing something up to prove his point. Only things you need to give thought to are backspacing, center bore, and lug nut style. Most steelies take acorn lug nuts and have large center bores to allow them to fit all vehicle makes. That means you’ll likely need hub-centric rings. You can buy them on Amazon or eBay or wherever; they’re a couple bucks for a set of 4. You’ll likely need 100mm-106mm or 100mm-108mm. For the steelies I ran on my 98 Frontier long ago, the center caps somewhat served a centering purpose because they installed between the wheel and hub. I never had balancing issues. Keep in mind that you may have some issues installing both hub-centric rings and center caps like this since they’ll occupy the same space. Also, don’t rely solely on the lug nuts to center the wheel. Your OE nuts are acorn style, but you might not be able to re-use them unless they're tall enough. Aluminum wheels have thicker mounting surfaces than steel, so short lugs may bottom out on the wheel stud. If your OE lug nuts reach, or almost reach (~1/8”) the wheel hub when the wheel isn’t installed, you’re probably okay. If you do need new ones, they’re M12x1.25. Not too relevant here, but only notable with Toyotas are when dealing with their mag-style nuts. The basic solution is to just change them to acorns. In my case, I run 17x8 4Runner alloys on my Frontier now...I use 100mm-106mm hub rings and mag-style lugs on it. Works fine.
  9. 4 points
    ^ This. I ran a bunch of circuits to my battery with individual fuse holders flapping in the breeze until I got tired of it and redid it with a blade fuse box. Easier to get to, doesn't look like a rat's nest, easy to disconnect something if I need to. The box I got even has little indicators that light up if a fuse pops. Check the combined amp rating of the fuse box to be sure it can take all the circuits you're routing through it, and size its wire to the battery appropriately. I've got three factory Nissan fog light rocker switches for the aux lights on mine (factory fogs, driving lights, aux reverse lights). I've got them set so they only come on if the circuit they're tied to (low beam, high beam, reverse lights, respectively) is hot and the switch is on. This way they're locked out when the switch is off, and automatic when the switch is on. The wiring on mine is laid out like this: + wire from whatever circuit enables that light (low beams for fogs, high beams for driving lights, reverse signal from the trans for reverse lights) to the rocker switch, rocker switch to the relay coil, relay coil to ground. Battery + to the fuse, fuse to the relay contacts, relay contacts to the lights, ground the lights to the body. (Because my switches have indicator lights built in, each switch needs a ground as well.) So for, let's say, the fogs, if the low beams are on, and the switch is on, current flows through the relay coil, closing the contacts, allowing power to flow through the lights via the heavier-gauge fused circuit. Turn off the switch, or turn off the the low beams, and the relay coil loses power and the contacts open.
  10. 4 points
    I have one I got off craigslist. It was 100 bucks. 42" Works fine for me.
  11. 4 points
    Not without spacers, no. The issue is when you go larger than 31" the tire contacts the strut. You have to move the tire/wheel outward to give the clearance necessary for larger tires. After that you can cut to your heart's desire.
  12. 4 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  13. 4 points
    Spent the morning at a friend’s winery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 4 points
    Sometimes I can stand it, but for this particular project, I’ve basically been in my garage almost daily for the past couple weeks, sweating it out. But, it would be another layer of hell cutting parts with the garage door closed without AC.
  15. 3 points
    After patiently waiting they finally arrived couldn't believe I also got the corner lights along with the fender lights really good deal 315$ out the door shipping and all. I've looked high and low for the wiring diagram on a terrano regulus and cannot find a FSM manual on it. I can get on and download the FSM for the 2001 QX4 which it has the Xenon too. Does anyone know if the wiring for the headlights on a 01 QX4 is the same for a 97 Terrano Regulus with the Xenon headlamps. Just wondering if I can use the 01 QX4 headlight wiring diagram and make it work on my 97 QX4? Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
  16. 3 points
  17. 3 points
    This thing is quite clean! I hope it was a nice gentle clean 159k highway miles. We shall see :] Just look at those plugs... you can’t even tell mine are plugs, they just look like balls of dirt at the end of a stick from a tree. There’s even plants growing under there and everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. 3 points
    There aren't many mini-ATC (mATC) fuse blocks available. You have to look to the motorcycle industry to find more/better mATC options, but they can get expensive. Fortunately, carrying spare fuses for both sizes isn't too cumbersome. The little containers they come in can hold about 10 fuses and take up less space than a Zippo. It's the glass fuses I wouldn't bother carrying. Any wires coming from the battery are always hot, even with the key off. You'll find these hot leads going to each fuse panel, plus the ignition switch. Another lead will come from the ignition switch and back into the fuse panels for any ACC (accessory) devices. The leads are attached to power rails for distributing to relays or fuses. On that note, I wouldn't tamper with any OE leads, unless you're installing a distribution block directly to the battery and need to modify the OE terminal to fit (pretty common when installing a proper audio setup). It's trivial to add a new hot lead from the battery with ring terminal. So, let's talk options (noting this is generic for most electrical upgrades)... These are some fused distribution blocks. The first one uses mATC fuses...you can find it at Aerostitch, a motorcycle outfitter. The 2nd one is from Blue Sea, a marine outfitter. The 3rd is similar to the 1st, but uses ATC fuses. The 4th (Dorman 85668) also uses ATC, but is also modular allowing you to slide multiple blocks together, and even relay mounts (5th image). The 6th option, also from Blue Sea, connects directly to the battery terminals. There are numerous options like these from the car audio world, but many of them use glass fuses...which I avoid. I've used a few of those. The 4th one I had installed under the radio in my Frontier to provide power to several accessories (additional 12V socket, aftermarket alarm, door locks), and I've got a Blue Sea box hanging in the shadows for when I get around to installing a power inverter, 12V socket (always on), and possibly a water pump and water heater in the cargo area of the Pathfinder. One perk of the Blue Sea blocks is that they also have a distribution (consolidation point) for a ground, which may save you the trouble of finding/drilling other ground points. As far as relays go, they're pretty standard. You can get harnesses that provide some wiring leads (as shown), or you can use slide connectors. They also have relays with fuse slots. Because most relays have mounting tabs, you can mount them somewhere on the chassis very easily, or with a strip of steel or ABS, create a mount for holding multiple fuses. If using the fused relays, you can get a distribution block and some jumpers (3rd pic) to distribute power, or just splice together a low gauge wire with higher gauge wires. Normally, I'm not a fan of terminal blocks because I try to make sure all power leads (aside from those on the battery) are not exposed...it doesn't take much effort to short something when using a screwdriver or wrench around them. Plus, the plastic on those styles can get brittle, causing the separate terminals to loosen over time. Putting it all together, I usually put a relay on just about anything drawing more than 10A but it depends (stereo amplifiers have built-in relays). If it's just a single accessory in an isolated area, I keep it simple. One example is my air compressor: it's close enough to the battery to warrant a direct connection, and because of its proximity to the inner fender wall (which has a few M6-threaded holes), it was easy to find mounting and ground locations: If you plan to run multiple devices, making a custom panel makes connections very easy: You connect the main lead to the fuse block on the left, the switch leads on the terminal block in the bottom-middle, and the devices to the larger terminal block on the bottom-right. (By the way, this guy sells this board for $300!...probably has maybe $50 in parts. The use of different terminal jacket types drives me nuts, but at least it's a clean solution). These Bussman modular fuse/relay boxes are probably my favorite, but require a fair amount of effort to wire up: Long long story short...if you're just planning to install the light bar only, a single lead, fuse, and relay (like what's sold in the wiring kit), is sufficient. If you plan on adding any other lights, or anything under the hood, plan on supporting those with some distribution point. Since you'll need to run at least one wire into the cab for the switch, if you plan on installing any other accessories inside the cab, minimize the numbers of wires going through the firewall. This is may mean having the distribution block inside the cab, but in doing so, all of the wires for switches will all be accessible.
  19. 3 points
    Dude, saw this project on FB; looks great! I'd consider kitting it out, over selling the plans. And to answer your question from FB, I put a 1/2" gap from bumper to fender on mine.
  20. 3 points
    Don't trust the waterproof ratings on some of the cheaper stuff. I put a pair of Kawell LED lights (not proper bars) on mine as backup lights, and the ad said they were waterproof, but they weren't sealed for crap. The fittings for the wires were loose, and I discovered after sealing those up that the lenses weren't sealed either. I ended up tearing the leaky one apart and putting them both back together with a bunch of silicone. They're bright as hell but it's a good thing they're mounted down where you can't see them, because they look like they lost a fight with a tube of Ultra Black. Oh, and if you're even considering using the bar on the road, hook the switch into one of your high beam leads instead of constant + so that the bar turns off when you dim your lights. I've driven past one bro truck with the light bar on and that was enough.
  21. 3 points
    You painted that frog in the picture too?
  22. 3 points
    Fairly subjective, you might get a wide variety of answers in terms of making a selection. A lot boils down to budget and general usage. I'll never stomach spending the money for some brand name ones...they won't make or break my adventures. I really like the aesthetics of curved light bars that span the top of the windshield. There was one install pic somewhere on NPORA that looked great. But, they're impractical for my application: I rarely offroad at night, and in the situations where I have, I wouldn't be able to use them because I'd just be blinding the guy in front of me. A smaller light bar in a low position will serve my needs. If electrical isn't your thing, look for wiring kits...they'll usually include the switch, relay, loomed wiring, and crimped terminals. Some will include a water-tight harness, or otherwise be plug-and-play (particularly if the light and wiring are of the same brand). Harnesses that come with Carling switches (those rectangular ones) are a close fit to the rectangular knockouts on the dash, but some modification (by knife or file) might be needed, and you might have some close clearances if using the openings to the left of the steering wheel under the vent...the dash can interfere with the paddle switch operation (at least on the later models they can). The round switches install well with a Forstner bit, which leave a better cut than standard or paddle bits in my opinion. I usually drill the hole right into the knockout piece, knowing that I can replace it easily if my setup changes...if taking this route, put some disconnects on the switch wiring to simplify installation/removal. As for mounting...this is probably the trickiest part since it's all custom. If the light bar brackets are included (some aren't) using your roof rack rails might be pretty trivial...some slot or square nuts in the channel (probably have the OE ones already in there and unused...I think they take an M6x1?), matching bolts, and some pieces of plate steel or aluminum cut to size/shape would give you some offset mounting options, since the end of the rail is still several inches from the windshield line. If you're willing to drill into the roof and have access to a rivet nut setter, that's another option, as is self-tapping screws into the A-pillar (though probably not the approach I'd take...just be sure to seal any holes with silicone and rubber gaskets to prevent water ingress). If you want some custom brackets made, I could cut something out on the plasma table, perhaps even get some bends in it. We'd need to talk about some dimensions, of course.
  23. 3 points
    So the snorkel got delivered and ill be sure to put photos up later today, but overall it seems to fit a treat, its built for a 2001 Navara D22/Frontier but the body conforms to the shapes of the snorkel, mounts to the A pillar great! Only complication is that the radio arial is in the way, so im thinking of relocating it to the bullbar and welding a plate to seal the hole left behind. Will make sure to post plenty of updates today!
  24. 3 points
    I set up two of the large spring traps earlier in the day under my wife’s car and literally 5 mins ago I heard that thing go off. Took a look and got a huge rat! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. 3 points

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