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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 4 points
    Came in the mail today. Another brochure to the collection. #R50OBSEESED Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  3. 4 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 4 points
    Did a full polish and wax, and wow even being a 17 year old truck that paint looks amazing. Also replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor, and also fixed the tachometer side of lights. Next is knock sensor, O2 sensor, climate control lights. Then hopefully we can begin on the fun stuff!
  5. 4 points
    did a drain and refill on front and rear diffs, transfer case, and transmission. diffs were still good, transmission was pretty dark, and the transfer case was black... yikes. still haven’t gotten around to the wheel bearings because i still don’t have a jack since our old one broke [emoji1475]. Just btw, I post on this thread more than@buttercup because i’m on the forum more frequently than her. plus i’m the one who does the work on the truck. weirdly enough, her 195k pathfinder runs better than my 135k did [emoji848]
  6. 2 points
    I've been looking for an R50 for a while now, and went to check out a few that were posted on FB/Craigslist today. I ended up walking away with this diamond in the rough. It's a 1997, 4WD, with the LSD (of *course* I checked for the sticker...before even test driving it!). It's got around 220k on the clock, but the previous owner had taken very good care of it. No real leaks, the interior is clean, and while it's got a few little bumps from being 22 years old, the paint is surprisingly not completely oxidized (pretty common in Arizona heat). I'm going to spend the summer just combing through everything and getting it back to 100%, but the first mod on the list is tires and a mild lift. Maybe a keyless entry for convenience before that.
  7. 2 points
    Sweet setup man. That looks good. #R50OBSEESED #REGULUSR #TERRARIRO #CUSTOMR50 #OIL #PRESSURE #GAUGE #DIYDASHCLOCK #NPORA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 2 points
    I doubt you would have to trim the lift blocks. 1/2" is small and the bumper should line up fine. I have done both the 3" on my 93 and the 2" on a 95 a friend had. I honestly found the 3" to be a little easier and have no regrets. It has made working on the truck easier and #6 spark plug is easy to get at.
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    Yea boi! #R50OBSEESED!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 2 points
    No, it’s the nuts that are not supposed to be reused. Replace bolts as necessary.
  12. 2 points
    You can replace the arms with the wheels on the ground, but it's pretty tight under there and it'll be hard work. No matter how you choose to do it, replace ONE link at a time. You will likely need a ratchet strap to help move the axle to line up the bolt holes.
  13. 2 points
    Last Missouri photo @Buttercup for the camera work
  14. 1 point
    Hey everyone, As you know my friend Pathydude17 has created a topic about a meetup in the north west. so i decided it would be good idea to have a meetup in the south! i have a good place in mind to camp and go wheeling. I'm in Georgia and we would go camping and wheeling up in cherry log (which is in the Blue Ridge Mountains). If anybody would like to come please let me know!
  15. 1 point
    January 2019: NIssanBoston *Send any member of the Mod team two additional pictures and they will be added here. *Pending official border.
  16. 1 point
    Hmmm... were there any transmission related problems? Did you notice any hard shifts or reluctance to downshift or shift to the next gear? How does the fluid look now? Does it smell different than new fluid? Jerking can be a symptom of transmission issues but usually not at idle. Also, an overheating engine can suffer various types of misfiring (pre/post) and if your knock sensor is unplugged (or relocated too far away from the block like mine) then the ECU cant pull time to correct it. It sounds like you were overheating to me. I'd change the engine oil and check the trans oil. Just saw that it was the coolant temp sensor that was unplugged. So you're getting a positive for knock but not misfire.. that sounds like the missing you feel is actually light knocking.
  17. 1 point
    fitting 32’s on OME MD springs will be pretty much impossible. 32’s would necessitate either 1: AC springs (4x4parts.com) Or 2: OME 2928 HD springs and, after they’ve settled, a 1” strut spacer would be recommended. For the rear, Land Rover springs would work best. Check page 7 of the below thread for the best estimates of lift height and where to order If you add wheel spacers, you might consider only putting them on the front so that your tires in the back still tuck easily inside the wheel well. As far as specific brands to look at, I can’t personally recommend any, nor do I recall they’re being much of a forum consensus. Of the people who do run spacers on stock wheels, I can think of @02_Pathy and @hawairish
  18. 1 point
    Bosch gauge cluster-Oil Pres, Volts,Temp #R50OBSEESED Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  19. 1 point
    I put a light coating of molybdenum grease on the body of the bolt that is in the bushings. That helps prevent the bolt from seizing in the bushing. That makes future repairs easier.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks to your reply, I figured it out. I looked at the schematic that you told me to and it was a fuse I didn’t think to check. Swapped the fuse and she started right up. On a side note for anyone that’s doing/did a electric fan swap where are they tapping into for a 12v ignition source so I’m not making the same mistake?
  21. 1 point
    Sounds like a good time. when and how many days would it last?
  22. 1 point
    Seems like the engine would've overheated long before the trans had issues with rad blocked off. Wouldn't hurt to check the fluid, though. Unless the paper had spikes on it I doubt it damaged the cooler. Odd that it would be misfiring and not coding. If you have a scanner that can show pending codes, give that a go, it might be waiting for a certain number of misses before it bothers telling you anything. The wind noise is odd, especially if it happened after you removed the paper. Fan clutch maybe?
  23. 1 point
    Thanks all, sounds like I will be waiting till i can use my friends driveway to tackle this. I do have replacement nuts and bolts on hand that I will be installing all around.
  24. 1 point
    Bosch oil press,volts and Temp gauges. Temp not hooked up yet. The USB to the left of the climate control actually reads your voltage plus has 2 usb charging ports. 2 wires poss & negative that's it. Like the others said much easier than actual mechanical gauge. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
    Just reiterating what was already said. I would definitely get you a ratchet strap. It will help pull the rear end to your control arm or control arm to the body. The bolts are a booger unless you get lucky. I would Jack it up and remove your wheels. Getem outta the way. 17mm wrench/socket 19 Wrench/Socket, breaker bar and Impact if available. 10mm for the cover over the control arm where it connects to the body. Also use the FSM manuals available online just search for your year R50 and go to the RA section. Make sure and torque to specs. NISSAN recommends you change the nuts. More than likely the bolts will get ruined removing them I know mine did. Good Luck. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
  26. 1 point
    looks great guy! im a metal fab guy myself and if yall need any help hit me up... otherwise im down to buy some products as they are available. im working on a front bumper design that would incorporate a receiver, flush mount leds and ditch lights as well. I had back surgery less than a month ago so its put a halt on all my projects but hopefully I can get some CAD work done while im laid up.
  27. 1 point
    Ended up ditching the original axle side track bar mount and making my own Threw together some temporary steering. Something to allow me to drive the car into the shed, letting me work on the rear of the car. Got the rear axle removed Got the ford axle rolled in Started the rear 4 link
  28. 1 point
    You might want to try Nissan for many of the parts. You will want a timing chain kit. When you have it apart, you will want to inspect both of the timing covers closely for damaged gaskets in the internal oil passages. The front cover is known to have the gasket fail between the cover and the passage plates screwed in the backside of the cover. Those gaskets are not available as far as I know, but can be easily made. When I was at the dealership we just replaced the timing cover when they developed internal leaks. It was not terribly expensive. Those passages are for the variable cam timing phasers, so when they leak, you have cam timing codes and poor running pop up. There is a couple of tiny screens in there too, be careful not to lose them. Many of the gaskets are from a tube, but there is a bunch of little O-rings used. I suggest getting a FSM for your engine and read it. Use the exploded diagrams to make a list of all the little parts you are going to be replacing. I am going to warn you now, Nissan engines are not inexpensive to rebuild. Years ago I built a Z24/Z22 Frankenstein for my 1980 200SX, and it wound up costing about $1000. And it was a primitive SOHC 4 cyl. Also, they have very tight tolerances and will not tolerate mistakes very well. Good luck, do it right and you will have a very good engine when done.
  29. 1 point
    Make sure you loctite the power valve screws while you put it back together, they're known for dropping into the VQ engines and causing problems. Also, the EM section of the service manual (which you can download from here if you haven't) should have all the procedures/torque specs/etc you need for the rebuild. Good luck!
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Unlock the driver door with the key to turn it off.
  32. 1 point
    That's quite the hook on your cherry picker! Looks like it's coming along.
  33. 1 point
    Had a good time camping this past week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  34. 1 point
    AARGH! I pulled out the front differential, pulled the oil pan, partially loosened ALL the bearing bolts and took off the timing belt. Everything spun freely so I started putting things back. I set the time and went through several revolutions so I figured it was ok and started putting things back. I put on the fuel rails (only took that off because I expected to have to remove the heads), the starter, the distributor, and the imitation Mr.510 pulley adapter without checking and now it's stuck again. I guess I narrowed down the possible issue but this is massively frustrating. I swear those two little coolant lines on the very back of the engine (from the weird octopus thing bolted to the bottom of the upper intake to the back of the block that T from the heater core lines are the most irritating part of working on the top end besides lining up the EGR tube with Pacesetter headers when most of the stuff on my 33 is from the 30. Complaints aside, I realized that if you have the differential and the oil pan off it's really easy to get to the torque converter bolts. If i ever pull the motor out again in putting it back in without the oil pan. Going through the starter slot is a pain, especially when your dad is right there talking about inspection plates on mopars. I typed that several days ago and evidently forgot to hit post. Anyways, earlier i pulled off the starter, the distributor, and the pulley adapter and it spun freely again. I put the distributor back, it spun, and then I put the starter back and it was like dragging on the flexplate. Granted I lost one of the bolts so I have an old head bolt with two inches of washers on the bottom, but it shouldn't be interfering with the flexplate. I bought the starter new last year and it's only been engaged a couple of times but I have a warranty on it so I'll probably go have it tested. I'm starting to think I'll need some sort of shim to keep it out far enough to clear but still engage the bendix when I need to start the truck. If anyone has any ideas, advice, or previous experience with this issue I'd like to hear it. Thanks for everything guys, I never would have made it this far without support from the community.
  35. 1 point
    Congrats @RainGoat! *Pending official border.
  36. 1 point
    September 2019: RainGoat *Pending official border.
  37. 1 point
    Alright, we've been busy. Big batch of parts finally cut and cleaned up, ready for drilling and bending. Couple tweaks on parts from the last sets, most notably changes to the motor mount spacers. Same footprint, but more efficient piece with tons more tool access. In other news...I ordered another CNC plasma table last week. This one will increase cutting sizes to 48" x 33" (my current is 25" x 23", though I've not installed the kit that bumps it to 25" x 33"). This gets us a step closer to making bumpers and skids a reality. Still tons of things to think about in that regard, but since the table won't ship until January, we have some time to plan.
  38. 1 point
    They make USB outlets with voltage readers that simply plug into your U-Plug. Just one of dozens of examples; https://www.amazon.com/Palumma-Charger-Adapter-Display-Battery/dp/B0773BYS6P
  39. 1 point
    I would echo[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] completely. Good tires are #1 but decide if you’re going to lift first as you may want a bigger size. Personally I think sliders are the most important body protection as damage in your rocker panel is tough & expensive to repair. The OEM low profile running boards are pretty hardy though and offer some protection. You’ll find all the young guys take them off, while we older/family guys keep them for roof access - I don’t know of anybody with body damage who had them on, but I can think of 3-4 current members with damage that occurs while having them off). Finally, I agree that you will likely find auxiliary lighting to be a useful mod. Luckily, there are countless ways to do that & most are easy & inexpensive.
  40. 1 point
    I put it on for my own enjoyment. It existed in my mind. LOL!!! Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Been there, done that. It is a pain to get all the wires in place for the front and rear cameras. The microphone wire was also not very easy to install. The side curtain airbags really make it tedious work. My next project for this weekend will be dash cam install: blackvue dr900-2ch Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  44. 1 point
    The beginnings of an extensive electrical project under the tutelage of Mr. Electric (@ferrariowner123). First step, “new” Pioneer AVH-X391BHS radio with USB port, line in, microphone, BlueTooth, and 2 camera ports (ultimately reverse & undercarriage cameras). We also addressed dash cam wiring, LED turn signal relay & removal of my old CB, it’s cable, and my old front auxiliary light wiring, as well as making room for a rear power panel. Special thanks to@ferrariowner123 without whom this would have been infinitely more difficult & who went the extra step of taking the new radio wiring & crafting a custom harness! Also, to my annoyance - as of March 2019, WAZE withdrew App support from Pioneer - REALLY annoying.
  45. 1 point
    I voted for Moab cause I feel like it’s not a place a lot of us have been, it’s central, and should (correct me if I’m wrong) have somewhat predictable/pleasant weather for the time of year. And if I’m honest, it’s only on this kind of trip that I’m gonna make it down there. I can see Idaho anytime I want, but making it to Utah is a different kind of special. Just my $.02
  46. 1 point
    Alright, @RainGoat, this post is just for you, buddy! I was long overdue for some dimensions for you. I still need to put them together for the tailgate and mounting feet, but here you go...now get cracking! There are a few repetitive dimensions and concepts, at minimum from the visual learners like myself, but also to summarize the little aspects of the build. Material sizes are 1" sq. tube for the main framework, 1" x 1-1/2" tube for the back and bottom, and 1/2" sq. tube for the shelf supports. I think everything was 16ga (1/16") wall. Everything was kept to 1/4" increments and simple angles (45° and 22.5° cuts). If I had to do it again, I might use wooden panels for the shelves, like I did for the tailgate, instead of all the 1/2" tube...took too much time to cut pieces and weld together. But then again, it adds various tie-down points. Space conceptualization. There are about 4"-6" available above the tops, and about 3" more on the passenger side, but these values just represent the dimensions up to those of the rack. Top view by levels, and the diagonal dimension that allows it to clear the liftgate opening. Recall that the angles of the 2nd (green) and 3rd (cyan) level shelves are so that it can clear the D-pillars. The height of the rack is also the max allowable, assuming you use 1" mounting spacers like I did (details to follow).
  47. 1 point
    This same scenario just happened to my 01 and wanted to chime in, in case someone else runs into this issue and is wondering what is going on. The Burning smell is a Triac on the ECM burning up. It will need to be repaired and also the IACV will need to be replaced. There is a fuse that blows under the hood as well which keeps the engine from firing up. I'm getting my ECM repaired as I've heard that if you buy a used one, it will need to be programmed from the dealer or lock smith cause it messes with the interlock switch not allowing you to start your vehicle. My two .02 cents worth.
  48. 1 point
    Done. I'll delete these posts tonight. B
  49. 1 point
    Yea pretty much, just find the hot wire when the reverse lights are on and tap into it. Though depending on how much they draw you may want, the stock reverse lights to switch a relay on which turns your top lights on.
  50. 1 point
    you could always experiment with a piece of chalk. Draw a line across the tire, drive for a little bit and see where the chalk wears off first. If it wears off evenly, you have good pressure, If it wears off in the middle first, decrease your pressure, if it wears off on the outsides first, increase your pressure.

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