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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2021 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
    ARB finally released the insulation bag for the fridge. I got a pair of maxtrax too but forgot to get a photo. I found a great deal on a second pair so will have two sets on my roof rack. Sent from my Pathfinder
  3. 4 points
    Go with KYB struts. You can purchase the rubber isolators separately from various online Nissan parts dealers. Replace the strut bearings and bump stop/boots as well. The correct Bilstein shock for a 2" lifted Pathfinder is 13-185552. With a 16" or 17" wheel with the correct offset, you can fit a 32" tire after some trimming or heat-remolding of the front plastic liners. You won't need to trim sheet metal, but you may need to remove or trim mud flaps. I have Ultra 175 Rogue wheels, 16x8 with 10mm offset. I was able to fit 265/75R16 tires with minor rubbing after trimming plastic wheel well liner. Tires cleared the strut tower as well. Camber bolts may be a good mod if you notice positive camber after lifting it. Manual locking hubs do prevent excessive wear and tear on the front CV boots while driving in 2WD. I have owned my 97 LE for 23 years. It has over 210K miles now. It's been lifted for 22 of those years. Ran 31x10.50R15 tires from 1999-2003, 32x11.50R15 tires from 2003-2006, 265/75-16's from 2006-2017. 285/75R16 tires 2017-present.
  4. 3 points
    Well, the R50 offroad market is small, cheap & diminishing here in the U.S. Sadly, while Pathfinders are common here (I literally see a couple on just about every drive I make), they’re rarely used as offroad vehicles. In almost 20 years I NEVER ran into another one on the trail (AZ, UT, CO, NM, CA, OR, WA, BC, ID) & think I only saw one other one and it was as minimally modified as mine at the time. In the last 5 years or so, there’s been an explosion of interest in offroading in the US and at the same time these trucks are now dirt cheap. Sadly, they’be become a bit of a throw away vehicle. It doesn’t take long on FaceBook to have a very sad impression of the R50 community these days. Conversely, offroading has been a part of daily life for alot of Australians. My Australian friends here talk about things like how their Mom, as a teacher, checked a Land Cruiser out of the district motor pool for her teaching duties. Following PCoA & corresponding with a couple Australians, R50s offroad are fairly common there & suppliers are numerous - many of them laugh at us buying ARB because that’s the most expensive of more than a handful of options they have. IronMan is just one of a few of many Australian brands that already have a domestic product but are only now considering distribution in the US. That said, I concur that they are unlikely to find a market willing to pay their prices (anyone familiar with the Toyota market would find our products ridiculously cheap but our options virtually non-existent. Everything on my Pathfinder cost a literal fraction of what something similar costs for my 5th Gen 4Runner). The Toyota world is full if 20 & 30 somethings willing to throw gobs of their disposable income at their truck. I’d love to see more Australian manufacturers bring their products here. The video that sparked the IronMan debate was rife with oddities & we already have an example of a successful application. I suspect we’ll soon have a second. If the guy who decided to distribute IronMan products here has an employee with an R50, I expect it’s a personal purchase. Given our tiny market, buying an R50 would likely exceed any profit margin they can expect on ALL R50 products they’ll sell here. I imagine our best avenue to more R50 products is a personal interest by the staff who will be deciding which products to bother importing. Frankly, I’m impressed with a professional response on their part in the face of a non-compliant customer. I don’t really understand what that truck owner’s goal was? All complaint, no attempt to fix or get his money back. I doubt any of the forum regulars would have responded similarly. IronMan already has a rep outside the R50 community & it’s pretty good. It’s my hope that one guy, and an overreaction on our part, doesn’t get us labelled as a community not worth supporting. I have to admit I responded from a jaded perspective. I spent more time on FaceBook R50 sites in the last 2 weeks than I ever had before. The level of immaturity, ignorance & stupidity I observed was mind numbing & depressing. The NPORA forum is typically a respite from all of that & has tended to make me feel superior to what I read on the Toyota forums - FB negated all that.
  5. 3 points
    Possibly. I never got around to making any new sets, and in the years that have passed, I've been wanting to do a redesign on my setup. That may be happening soon. Undecided on that. I'd have to see if I still even have originals to work with, but there's a general reluctance to hand-over work like that unfortunately.
  6. 3 points
    New roof rack is finally on. Some small stuff is still needed but here’s a pic of how it sits. I am extremely happy with how it turned out. Of course this wasn’t possible without [mention]hawairish [/mention] A big thanks to him for always willing to help in any way he can. He was behind the design and fabrication of the brackets that hold this thing together. At 72lbs, it isn’t the lightest but will out perform almost any off the shelf roof rack. We’ll continue the build tomorrow so I’ll have more pics then. Sent from my Pathfinder
  7. 3 points
    04Pfinder, I really wasn't trying to shut you down by telling you to search, and yes, there is such a thing as TMI sometimes! I think maybe you will get more input with more specific questions like "Is this part number the right one for a 2004, I've seen different numbers posted in these threads" type thing. The less homework you make people do will generally get better results... human nature. R50JR, I was simply saying that I recall a discussion about this, and that several people seemed to have issues. Poor installation... a bad batch... these things can happen. Hell, I didn't even have an R50 back then, give me credit for even remembering it 15+ years later. Let me say that I still appreciate the enthusiasm for Pathfinders, and I've obviously done my part here on NPORA. I currently own 3 pathfinders, a 91, a 95 and a 99. My wish is to convert the 91 into a front wheeled drive electric vehicle based on a Nissan Leaf drive train (150hp/180ft/lb stock VS 110hp/210ft/lb EV) that would mainly be used for around the county, the 99 will probably be sold soon (too damn many vehicles), and the 95 I'll keep until it is my coffin. Keep it up guys (and gals), they don't make them like this anymore! B
  8. 3 points
    Yeah, I kinda liked the IDX, especially the interior. Not crazy about the slab corners, but at least it's interesting. That is a clean two-door. Shame all the lead designer has to offer is marketing wank. Energy! Movement! Bold! Strong! This paint color means adventure!
  9. 3 points
    Hey, thanks for all the detailed infos you shared with us.. we owe you.. i have repacked 4 LSD’s so far for me and friends.. following all your advices and all successful .. 1- #|0|0|0|0|||() ——— 100 ft.ibs ( 19.30 ) 2- #|0|0|0|0|0|)) ——— 110 ft.ibs (19.35 ) 3- #|0|0|0|0|0|)) ——— 130 ft.ibs ( 19.55 ) 4- #|0|0|0|0||))) ——— 148 ft.ibs ( 19.60 ) this morning i tried this configuration : #|||0||||0|||)) ——— (20.09) it was spool.. i ran out of FD so i tried with what i have and used all thin FB.. now i am not sure is it because of the lack of FD’s or because of the stack hight increment or because of both?? I will try other configurations once i get more plates from JY.. will keep u updated if i made any improvements .. my goal is 150-250 ft.ibs anyway, just wanted to share my experience with you guys.. thanks again for every single info in this great forum .
  10. 3 points
    400km trip each way made for a long day. Just after fueling up for the drive home: Some Silo art we stopped to admire on the way home, this is only about a month or so old and has been on our list (Silo art is a big thing over here, we have the "Silo art trail" which brings a lot of tourism into small dying towns. Annnnnnnd Safely back home. Car ran great, wound the old Z24 right up in the back roads and even overtook several cars! It's basically the same shape as when I had it except the wheels have been changed out for a smaller set, the gearbox is a bit noisy, some of the interior plastics are a bit knocked around and the wiring for the stereo has been hacked (PO had a sub in the back, obviously ripped it out in a hurry). Overall I am thrilled to have it back, but probably paid a premium for my sentimental attachment. Updates soon, goes in for inspection next Friday! FGF
  11. 3 points
    Finally got this installed today after weeks of coordinating shipments and waiting. One of the junkyard L brackets was bent so I had to enlist a body shop's help, but dodgy corner bolts aside I'm pretty happy with the outcome. It'll eventually need paint to match, but for anyone who tackles this in the future, here's how it was all sourced: Rock Auto still has the black '93-'95 bumper face bar and end caps (all non-OEM) as of early 2021. The face bar is cheaply made and somewhat poorly stamped (didn't perfectly line up with the brackets), and arrived scuffed; reading through Amazon reviews it seems that's par for the course. I found the plastic bumper inserts and indicator lights on eBay, also new. Seems Nissan changed the plugs on the indicators between generations, so these had to be spliced with the wiring from my old '87 indicators, but that was minor. All of these parts arrived without brackets and bolts, so it was off to the junkyard for those! These came from a Pick n Pull unit in Calgary. And that's it! Now to find a new hood... j
  12. 2 points
    I tried to reach out to jovany to come on the site to clear any misinformation and he has been slow to react and probably uninterested. He did tell me his attempts to work with Ironman were before he made the video. He also mentioned Ironman wanted to give him partial refund for the springs. At this point he looks like even bigger liar with his claims of bad customer support. With that said, having worked on my pathfinder’s suspension a bunch, I can say something is wrong with those springs but I guess we’ll never really know. [mention]RainGoat [/mention] I gave up social media nearly a decade ago. I haven’t looked back since. The amount of crap on there makes everyone stupid. Sent from my Pathfinder
  13. 2 points
    So I did a thing with the second stimulus money, and got a new Apple CarPlay capable head unit. Went with a Sony XAV-AX5000 off a recommendation from another guy in a local overlanding group. I completed the install today and am pretty pleased with the results. I have 21st century tech now, and the sound quality is significantly improved over the factory unit. The nice thing, and one of the motivating factors is that Gaia GPS works with CarPlay which should come in handy while off grid.. I also went with a backup camera. I couldn’t really get perfect placement for the camera with the Wilco spare tire carrier back there, but I mainly wanted to be able to see where my tire and hitch/shackle were if I’m in a tight space. Ended up placing the camera where most new factory cameras would go. Again the view isn’t perfect but it’ll get the job done... It was a total pain running the camera wire through the hatch and through the rubber conduit that connects the body to the hatch wiring but I got through it.
  14. 2 points
    What's good NPORA friends? Aside from A LOT else that happened last year, I was in a fender bender (not my fault) which resulted in my Pathfinder being deemed a "Salvage" vehicle status. All headaches aside, the DMV requires a Brake & Lamp CERTIFIED ($$$) INSPECTION ($$$). According to the certified shop this means NO cracks (even hairline and airtight) in the light lenses and all lights functional as should be. ANY CRACK in a lense will fail the inspection. All my lights function and the bulbs are the correct original colors yet I have purchased all new lenses now because they all had fine cracking after almost 30 years on the roads. So that takes care of the Lamp Part, then ....there is the Brake inspection. No, it's not just do the brakes work, function, and stop the vehicle but the tolerances MUST be within specifications of the pads and rotors. My model pathfinder has front and rear disk and rotor brakes. I figure Okay, let's get ALL the brakes in order to make the best of the needed work. I'll get new rotors and pads front and back since I haven't done any brake work/maintenance since I bought the Nissan & they are in need of the work ...and I can hear GRINDING now. My local shop said the FRONT ROTORS on my Nissan ARE VERY DIFFICULT and require about $350 in labor!? Apparently this has to do with the 4X4 front end? What's the deal, how hard is the Front ROTOR and pad replacing? How hard are the rear Rotors and pads replacing? How difficult is proper bleeding of all four corners? I'm one guy in my small driveway and the HOA (home owners association) doesn't allow much time for vehicle work in the driveway... Should I do the rears myself because they are actually rather SIMPLE and ask the shop to do the fronts. The shop is saying the front brakes (pads and rotors and labor) is $400 and the rear is $250 more (parts and labor total job $650). Or should I do the job myself? What are your seasoned opinions, advice? Thanks again for any help. Aaron https://imgur.com/gallery/xofME4v<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/xofME4v" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/xofME4v">Pre Brake &amp; Lamp Inspection WD21 Nissan</a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
  15. 2 points
    Blokka for the R50 rear differential! 33 spline. Ordered Feb 8th arrived March 2nd. $290.88 delivered. Installation date is still to be determined.. Stay tuned.
  16. 2 points
    I could be wrong but I believe that Dobinsonsprings.com is their Australian site, and dobinsondirect.com is the US market site. I ordered my front springs from dobinsondirect.com. I chose to, and recommend sticking with LR springs for the rear.
  17. 2 points
    I agree with @RainGoat If they're on order wait on it. I only know of a couple others that have used them and they have yet to complain. The guy from the video was asked by Ironman directly for a hub to fender measurement from before and after which he opted to not provide. The FSM provides the factory specifications for ride height so even though he never took measurements before installing the springs he could have referenced the FSM material and then provided a post-lift measurements, just as they asked. We don't know what conversation took place prior to the video but I'd think if you provided them with OEM literature paired with before and after measurements, including photos, they would be obligated to fix the situation with a refund or replacement pair of springs.
  18. 2 points
    Personally, I find the video incomplete. It sounds like IronMan tried to engage the owner but he wasn’t interested in providing them information. If I were them, I’d probably be done there too. I wish we had a write up with the actual facts. Consequently, if the IronMan springs are coming, I’d wait to get too worried as I’m not convinced you won’t be okay or that IronMan won’t back their product up. That said, no real reason not to go with the Dobinsons. Personally, I very much dislike IronMan’s vivid green.
  19. 2 points
    so I just got off the phone with dobinsons, for those interested...the front springs are 202 lbs/in c45-168. and rear springs are 174 lbs/in c45-169. so question for those running them. Are the fronts topping out the struts ?
  20. 2 points
    No, but everyone whose installed them thats talked to me about it ( ~ 3 people?) like them. They’re a reputable brand, bigger in the Toyota world.
  21. 2 points
    It’s addressed in better mechanical detail in other threads but [mention=41986]Zakzackzachary[/mention] documents his failure due to leaving it out in his thread (Post#90). The struts alone have several instances of documented incorrect installation by garages in NPORA - in reviewing the above thread, I note he had trouble with some local shops as well. I’ve been passing along@XPLORx4 strut alignment pic for years now as that’s another common error. I would double check any shop’s work, especially for such a safety essential component.
  22. 2 points
    The parts stores sell replacement "wires" for the coil on plug ignition systems. They are replacement wires, boots, and seals that go between the coil and spark plugs. My experience with COP systems is unless there was mechanical damage to the coil, if one is failed or failing, replace them all together, or you will be chasing issues.
  23. 2 points
    Just looked at the wiring diagram. Check out the 7.5 amp fuse in the under dash fuse box. Labeled #24 but it controls the antenna and the door chime. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  24. 2 points
    Exhaust leaks shouldn't be the issue, mine leaks too. Doesn't seem like there should be any connection between the flasher and the engine running like crap. The intermittent nature of the problem does point to an electrical fault. Checking timing's not a bad idea. Sometimes the dizzy craps out and it gets worse as it warms up, which could explain the issue worsening. Did you do anything else at the parts store, anything under the hood? I'd take a look at the MAF wiring, just see if it's obviously wiggly or corroded. Look around where you installed the flasher, make sure you didn't knock anything else out, though I'm not sure what/how that would be. Also try running codes, on the off chance the computer's got some idea of what's going on.
  25. 2 points
    I'm new to pathfinders, I've been a jeep guy for years but the prices on jeeps has become ridiculous. I just picked up a 2004 pathfinder se 4x4 in December. I'm in the process of installing a 2.5 inch lift\leveling kit from supreme suspensions and new struts and shocks from Detroit axle.
  26. 2 points
    I used an OEM top hat, not the pictured aftermarket one. I don’t think the aftermarket spacer needs to be welded - you just need to be sure to use it.
  27. 2 points
    I have Bilstein 5160 shocks in the rear. I tend to keep a pretty good clip on washboard and rough terrain and these perform very well. My rear end doesn't float like it used to with the 5100 series and the road characteristics are sporty and responsive. If you already have the KYB shocks I'd run with those and if you find that you need or want more performance then change at a later point in time. I don't recall what the OEM spec compressed and extended lengths are but I'm sure you can find them posted.
  28. 2 points
    I’m not in the market for a new vehicle but this new pathfinder is not appealing. This explorer competition looks like the countryman in the back, highlander side view(fj copy color scheme), and an explorer up front. If they really want to motivate me to get a new ride, it’s gonna have to be something that you can get lockers on from the factory. And something that is rugged and looks rugged. The pathfinder name should be on a little suv tank with lockers. Something stupid capable. Sorry not sorry. I enjoy pathfinder but designers are still missing the point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  29. 2 points
    Hey gang, Over the last 18 months I've really come to love my WD21 Pathfinder! So many quirks and features. If you were going to do a "Doug DeMuro style" review of your WD21, what quirks and features would you point out? I can think of a few, perhaps specific to my SE-V6 w/ Power Package It has a spoiler... haha You can engage the windshield washer without actually using the wiper blades Rear armrests on the outside, and seatbelt clips to keep the buckles nice and organized those LEGO wheels tho My 1992 doesn't have a check engine light... not that it's broken or depopulated, it just never came with one. period. gotta check those blinky lights on the computer! two tier roofline as a precursor to the 1st gen Xterras Old school switch-activated cruise control Gotta press that little button to get the key out - classic japanese style The triple "nostrils" on the grill "hidden" rear door handles Maybe if I collect enough I'll make a 'tribute video' on YouTube.... haha Cheers from sunny Colorado!
  30. 2 points
    Hey Guys! I've read up on the numerous threads and builds over the past several months and it has been immensely helpful. However, my mechanical skills are quite limited and I have a few questions. My local custom truck shop had little to no knowledge. I plan on checking with another shop but I maybe in charge of ordering everything and being the person planning everything. 2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4 w 144,000 miles. Drive it a couple days a week. It's sagging and needs new tires. I'd like to lift it 2" and put some bigger more aggressive tires on it. I don't want to go crazy as I'd still like it to be pretty drivable. My offroading is mostly in slick mud no major rocks or anything. Here is what I know I need/want: 2" lift front AC coils , Landrover NRC 9447 rear springs bilstein shocks. I'll try and list these to be as brief & concise as possible. What struts do yall recommend? KYB or OME or other The guy looked at it and said I needed the full strut assembly because my rubber isolator was messed up? What parts should I get along with the strut? Is this the correct model shocks for the rear? Bilstein 33-18552shocks What is the largest tire I should anticipate without trimming metal? Seems like 31" easy maybe 32" I plan on buying new rims with the proper backspacing What else should I buy or replace? camber bolts seem reasonable Would locking hubs help performance or just take the pressure of my cv's? Thanks so much for any advice or help. I have enjoyed this truck for the last 16 years and would like to keep it a few more. I've got two pics if I can figure it out later I'll add them.
  31. 2 points
    KYB struts are fine, noone has had a problem with them. There may be some improvement in road manners with the OME, but its incremental & probably imperceptible paired with AC struts; plus they are significantly more expensive. I believe it was [mention=38818]micahfelker[/mention] who experienced a failure with the Moog strut bearing, not KYB. Here was my part list: OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com Wish I had new rubber/plastic to go on the bottom of the spring but I just rotated my old ones since I did not. I believe@hawairish improvised with hose. @02_Pathy & [mention=39745]stpickens[/mention] have excellent examples of 2” lifts; prior to their SFDs. 2” is all you really need & can make a great build. While manual hubs are all the rage, many of us, particularly the ATX14A trucks, are still running autohubs. In a part-time 4x4 truck there is no reason not to install them; but I wouldn’t get hung up on it. If you’re not spacer lifting, keeping it at 2”, & not rock crawling, you’ll probably never need new CVs but if you do, the manual hubs make it possible to replace them without removing the tire. Having owned my truck since new in ‘02 but having just started to refresh it about 4 years ago, you’re in for a treat. Just freshening the suspension alone will make it infinitely more pleasant to drive.
  32. 2 points
    All the weight of a full sized truck. All the gas mileage of a full sized tuck. None of the power of a full sized truck. Knowing you have one of the most reliable vehicles around. Knowing no one knows what it is unless they have owned one. Knowing passengers won't climb into the back unless you tell them where the door handles are. Being part of NPORA. B
  33. 2 points
    I actually watched that, Man I would love to have a look through their heritage centre, some nice units in there! Would love that 2 door, steering wheel is even on the right side! I think it's a real stretch to draw a parallel between this and the WD21 (as in "you're on crack"), but in this day and age bean counters make more final decisions on design than the actual designers. Nissan dropped the ball in the early 2000s in my opinion, building 'safe' non-offensive (BORING) vehicles for boring people. We have the navaras and the twin turbo diesels over here and I do not rate them. They have no resale and issues with reliability/poor reputation. If Nissan stuck their neck out and made a real tribute car I think they would be on a winner! Look at what Suzuki did with the new Jimny - That's how you pay homage to a classic. I test drove one and they are amazing. There is a 2 year waiting list to get one here in Aus, with second hand examples fetch 15k more than the original sticker price.
  34. 2 points
    I don't like it. Congratulations, Nissan, for making another lackluster car...or another Honda Pilot. I've grown so tired of Nissan engineers talking about WD21 inspiration and then they still produce some homage crapmobile. There's no lineage here whatsoever (and arguably, any lineage may have only ever existed in the Xterra). A second generation in a row they couldn't even get the rear door handles correct. Personally, I like the new Navara front end over the Frontier. I was hopeful that the new Frontier would have the body lines of the more recent Navara, but both were a departure. I keep hoping that Nissan will produce another matching-body truck/SUV combo like the Hardbody/Pathfinder and 1st and 2nd gen Frontiers/Xterras (and even 3rd gen Pathfinder). In this case, I was hoping for a Frontier/Terra joint release. Disappointed yet again. I'll add that the Pathfinders (R50 and R51) and Xterras (WD22 and N40) should never have coexisted (and the R50 wasn't a good successor to the WD21)...which gets me to the new Pathfinder: With the Xterra having been out of the picture for a several years, Nissan should have done a chassis-share between the Frontier and Pathfinder. And bring the diesels over! (There are a single- and twin-turbo diesels overseas!) Nissan just continues to create bland vehicles here. I can't tell the difference between a Versa, Sentra, Altima, or Maxima any more. It's probably just a matter of time before the Frontier and Titan are FWD, too.
  35. 2 points
    This was an interesting watch: Yeah it's still a soccer mom car but damn look at that clean 2 door in the background.
  36. 2 points
    Photos from[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] I can’t tell you how much I like his set up. The dust/chase lights work great too.
  37. 2 points
    The usual test for the injectors themselves is to rig up a fuel pressure tester, pressurize the system (cycle the key to run the pump), then turn it back off and see how long it holds pressure. If an injector is leaking, it should drop pretty quick. I don't know if the R50 has the shrader valve on the fuel rail so you can easily hook up a pressure tester. If not you'll have to unhook the fuel line somewhere and tee in the tester. I would also pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator, cycle the key, and make sure fuel doesn't come pissing out. If it was I think you'd have noticed symptoms other than the smell, though.
  38. 2 points
    Cheers lads! Leaving now, wish me luck!
  39. 2 points
    Got the old spare tire dismounted, bead blasted the barrel and the backside left the chrome intact Applied a base coat of signal white, put down a powdercoat of glowbee clear, laid down the template then sprayed the rest of the backside with ink black, peeled off the decal then finally baked on a gloss clear over everything, now i’m polishing the chrome up, only 4 rims to go The entire inside of the rim is somewhat illuminated from the glow, it’s pretty sexy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  40. 2 points
    So.... Plot Twist.... Going back to my first post, I mentioned the impetus behind this thing was to emulate my old pathy I sold a few years ago.... This one: Well, as soon as I started spending time and money on the white one.... My original car came up for sale... It looks to have been kept in great condition. ... And er.. Well um... I bought it... Over the phone from pics and a walkaround video the seller did for me. I'm excited. Took the Mrs for our first date in this car and my best mate whohelped me build it originally took his own life 12 months ago, so plenty of good memories with the thing. I pick it up in 2 days, 800km round trip.. Will post updates -FGF
  41. 2 points
    Right under the Nissan emblem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  42. 1 point
    I have a 1991 Nissan Pathfinder I take off road when I can and I’m slowly building it into a rig that will sustain me for a week+ at a time on remote trips. I’m located in the Bay Area of California.
  43. 1 point
    Here you go! Ford Maverick vs. Nissan Patrol: Mercury Villager vs. Nissan Quest vs. Guangdong Bus Works vs. Nissan Pathfinder:
  44. 1 point
    They're not hard, you'll need a G clamp or some large multigrips to push the pistons back in the calipers. Definitely repack your bearings and do your hub seals while you're in there. A good mechanic with a shop and hoist could do the whole shebang in a couple of hours. Download a FSM and find a mate that will give you the use of their driveway for an afternoon. Also, if your mechanic finds this task "very difficult", I'd be looking for another mechanic that knows what on earth they are doing.
  45. 1 point
    You might want to get back in there and include that spacer. Sent from my Pathfinder
  46. 1 point
    Hey guys, many you know I have asked several questions about repairs over the past few months and you all have provided a great amount of help. So wanna say thanks to you all! This is an amazing community of people on here. As R50JR has recommended I have started this build thread to keep everything concise and in one place. I know I've created several different threads with different questions and may have been confusing so sorry about that. Many of those repairs havent been done as yet as the weather up here in the Northeast hasn't been cooperating. I did get the chance to do some things here and there. Installed a double din Pioneer touchscreen system, kicker tweeters, back up camera, and did a pressurized fuel injection cleaning. My truck has just over 180k and its still going strong. Very minimal light spot rust on the undercarriage and on the driver side of the vehicle by the rear wheel well at the bottom near the side step there is some rust there also. Think i'll bring it to a body shop to repair that as I don't want it to get worse. As for rust, thats about all, havent found any on the rest of the vehicle or in any other wheel wells. Will be wiring brushing off any rust underneath and undercoating this summer. In the next week or two I’ll be pulling my transfer case at the shop to replace all seals as well as new u-joints for both driveshafts and a new transmission mount. I have all parts. -For the seals I’m using original Nissan’s (front driveshaft seal, rear driveshaft seal, front transfer case seal, shift seal, rear tranmsision seal) -U-joints will be Dana Spicer -Transmission mount Beck and Arnley This coming spring I’m doing some suspension work and will be putting on a new Rack and Pinion. If by then the OME coils are still not available I’ll be going with the Ironman coils for the front and rear. I know most have the OME and I've watched PathyDude17's video and he knows someone with the Ironman coils. So I guess I'll be one to update on the ride quality and performance once I get them on. NISS035B - rear 1.5” lift coils NISS034B - front 1.5” lift coils KYB strut mounts, boot and bellow, bearing Nissan spring Seat rubbers (54034-0W000 & 55034-0W003) KYB Exel-G struts KYB Gas-A-Just shocks A camber bolt for each strut Missing Link that I'll try to make on my own Already have new sway bar bushings and links front and back. New ball joints have been installed. Any reccomendations for a good Rack and Pinion? I was thinking about a AcDelco rack. (ACDELCO 36R0788) Now two years ago I had to replace the control arms in the front and the rear 4 trailing arms. I was going on a long trip and the swaying at highway speeds was not pleasant so I just did the arms at the time. What I didn't do correctly at was load the vehicle before torquing down the bolts. I torqued them down with the suspension still hanging. Everything still looks fine bushing wise and theres no swaying. Should I replace back the arms or loosen bolts and torque down loaded? At the time I used Mevotech control arms in the front. Havent had problems but I'm not sure how good of a brand this is? What do you guys reccomened for the front control arms as replacements? Once all those repairs are completed I'll be getting some new shoes for the Pathy. With a 1.5" lift and stock rims (15's) what are the best reccomendations for All Terrain tires? A bigger size possible? Thanks to everyone!
  47. 1 point
    It’ll be a fun game to see if I spot it as R50s always catch my eye & yours is truly unique. I might just look into the vinyl - happy to take any pointers on YouTubes, articles you found useful & where you bought it (you should have my contact info in your PM). I’d like to do my central hood. If that goes well I might do my G’s diffuser & even roof. I also have thought about the fenders in a charcoal. Part of my worry was the creases so I’m glad to hear that’s fixable. Your Raptor application plan sounds good & should avoid the pitfalls I encountered. I like the 2K in theory & wanted it on the sliders. I’m planning on trying a different brand of 2K primer & paint I’m going to try on my SFD parts. I tried the spray paint U-Pol as I thought it would be easier - but it wasn’t. I have an hvlp gun but my only experience with it has been cleaning up the disaster my wife made with it while painting some shelving units. The 4Runner in my IG feed is a friend on Redmond Ridge. I helped him out his sliders on & was really impressed with how his Rustoleum textured turned out - and I spent over an hour with my face only inches from it. He’s since banged it up & spot repaired it - those touch ups are essentially impossible to identify. I changed over & used it on the T4R sliders & a temporary winter coat to protect my bumper. It’s also nice that you can get it at Home Depot for $6 instead of the ~$25 I think I paid for the Raptor. I still have 3 cans staring at me which makes me a little angry at the wasted $ until I figure a project for it. My main unhappiness was that it was laying down the texture but not filling the spaces between. I had started with just the steps & realized the fan applicator was going to be even worse on tubes & was going to require more than the 4 cans I allotted for the project which meant more time & money. To their credit, I contacted U-Pol & they confirmed the Rustoleum would apply fine over the 2K - obviously, just not as hard. You can see the texture differences in these photos - unfortunately I don’t have one of just the U-Pol on the detached steps with the grey primer underneath (I was too angry to document).
  48. 1 point
    Any 4x4 forum would agree that unless it’s a full bumper replacement (in our case think ARB, coastal off-road, Hawairish, etc), any such bull bar, push bar, brush bar idea will be a damage multiplier. I dropped some good links when we were discussing it with @ThatBluePathy

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