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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Man, it's been over a year since our announcement. Where are we? We're behind where we wanted to be. We still talk about projects endlessly (today's topic was rear disc brake conversions), but a couple events in our personal lives this year surely derailed us a bit. I think @TowndawgR50 will give a separate update, but in general, I'll take the blame for things being slow throughout the year. At this point, we are finishing up 6 kits (3 each of 3" and 4"), plus some other side parts to complete another kit already partially in the field. Four of those kits are spoken for among the PNW crew, leaving 1 each of 3" and 4". I'm not sure when we'll push those latter two kits out, likely after we've had some additional hands-on with the parts and installs. That's the focus right now. We're still discussing 2020 plans, but tentatively we're talking about a few short run kits here and there rather than anything full-fledged. Our work schedules and locations presented their fair share of challenges, and Jake and I both have a few personal projects we'd like to focus on, so we've been discussing ways to make our two locations a little more independent. Part of that will be transferring my current CNC plasma table to him once my new one arrives and is operational. That would put nearly all of the SFD-making equipment in his hands, plus give him a kick-ass tool for a ton of projects. Since I'll have a larger table, I'll probably be exploring bumpers and skids, but will also be able to supplement SFD parts and such, too. More to follow soon...
  2. 2 points
    Hi, I `m Alexander. First Pathfinder WD21 i bought six year ago. Then i bought Xterra WD22 1999 and Infinity QX4 2002. I still drive these cars. QX4 i using for rally equipment. And my Pathfinder 2004 for cross-counry baja FIA T2 Omologation. Nice to meet you ))).
  3. 1 point
    So some of you guys have probably seen various posts about my old truck, a JDM 1997 Terrano 3.2 diesel. I was about to dump a whole lot of cash into it and spec it up for 4wding, but I've now gone a similar direction with a new vehicle and sold the Terrano My father decided to upgrade his vehicle, and offered me his 2007 R51 V6 for a price I couldn't refuse. So this will be the new 4wd and will also be specced up to do trips with the Canterbury Land Rover Owners Club. During his ownership my father added a 2" lift with King springs, so that's already done. So far I have added the UHF CB and dashcam from the Terrano, bolted on a set of front recovery points, got a rear recovery hitch, fitted a snorkel, made a sump skidplate from 5 mm steel tread plate, transferred all my recovery gear, fitted a 1.5 kg fire extinguisher, snorkel, spark arrestor and lastly, a set of 255/85r16 BFG KM2 tyres on OEM Nissan whpeels. At the moment I'm pretty keen just to get out and drive it on some club trips. I've got one planned over the Waikaia Bush Rd for the 28th. As my father has had it from new I've already put some serious bush miles on it, but it's always good to get out. That's next to a 265/65r17 all terrain, Goodride SL369
  4. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies and suggested options. I finally successfully pulled the engine out today so very happy to make that step forward. I ended up dropping the front cross member which came out very easily (suspect the prior owner may have had it out at some point as the bolts were tight but easy to undo). I had already disconnected the front diff/axle assembly so when i dropped the front cross member, i was able to lower the diff at the same time (one large workshop trolly jack under the front diff and another standard one under the front cross member) so all came down ok.(That diff/axle assy is heavy!!). Once the diff and cross member were out of the way, i was able to get to the bolts on the flywheel/torque converter a lot easier and was a bit surprised/shocked to find them only finger tight, so likely a disaster waiting to happen if I hadn’t addressed that i suspect. I then made sure all areas disconnected and also made a temporary cross member to bolt into the mounting points where the back mounts of the front diff are so to support the front of the gearbox when i removed the engine. Looked to connect the engine hoist and had to try and find some places to connect chains. Apart from one location with convenient nuts on a brackets on the rear passenger side of the block, there wasn’t too much that was jumping out. Connected chains using the aircon and power steering brackets and then a strap around the drivers side manifold secured back to the front of the engine. i had an engine leveller on my hoist so as i raised the engine, i found that the height of the terrano was too high so I wouldn’t be able to clear the top radiator cross member with the sump. I dropped the sump as well as the oil pick while raised and still in the engine bay so as to get as much clearance as possible as i was limited by the height in my garage and the lift of my engine hoist. i probably didn’t put the engine hoist leveller close enough to the block so lost some span - next time the leveller will be really down tight to the engine so as to make the lift back in a bit easier. I will likely also look to either make some connectors/plates for engine hoisting or at least sort something that is easier to manage. I had also had stands under the front half of the body raised up so as to give me enough room to work underneath while prepping the removal but this also meant the whole body’s higher than needed for clearance for the engine removal. So, a bit of judicious jacking with extra blocks and lowering the axle stands to then lower the overall height to remove the engine followed. A bit challenging and added a bit of a heart stopper when one of the blocks on the jack decided to pop out and drop the body on to the stands - a bit unexpected but at least the stands where in the right place/height so no damage thankfully. So, back to the hoist, lift and seperate the bellhousing no issue and move a bit forward then lift. Now the clearance was tight even with the sump/oil pickup gone. The rear spacing plate got rotated to sort that and then the engine leveller adjusted to drop the front down and raise the back for clearance. Tight squeeze with the top of the engine hoist jib just fouling the garage roof crossmember so very fiddle and back and forth, twist and then finally out clear. Brought it out and mounted on a portable engine stand to start the strip down and rebuild. Engine bay clean and some general maintenance while all out. Might also replace the torque converter at the same time - seems a logical thing to do while I have the engine out. Thoughts? So, my findings from my way of removing the engine: The Nissan engineers had no clue as to post assembly engine removal work and should be sentenced to working on removing and re installing the Terrano V6 auto 4wd repeatedly as punishment. Purchase of some aviation ring spanners was a great assistance. The 14mm spanner was particularly useful to get to the two bell housing bolts at the top of the bellhousing and was worth the price of the set by itself. Aviation spanners are around 3 times as long a standard ring spanners- extra leverage as well as a lot easier to access some fiddly bolts. Swivel connectors for socket drives and a couple of extension swivel bars assisted in breaking the set of some of the bolts. In looking at potential re assembly, i am considering connecting the diff to the front cross member and make a jig that will help balance it to raise the whole thing up once the engine is back in. Hopefully the option to mount the diff/front axle and the cross member will work but that is a new chapter worry once the engine is overhauled. So, for now, engine removal done, start of the clean up and prepping for overhaul. All of the work to date and todays efforts to remove the engine were all single handed, so a bit challenging on that front as well, but generally ok. Won’t be a quick workflow moving forward but finally looking to getting it done and getting the beast back on the road and prepped for the 2020 trek rally Will update as things resolve. Cheers all.
  5. 1 point
    The winter break vehicle, now that I’m in Idaho for the next 3 weeks. If you’ve never had the chance to try out this platform before, I highly recommend it. The Rubicon trim comes with front and rear lockers. With its gearing, I was able to idle up 45% grades, and the lockers make everything a breeze. It definitely has its disadvantages, but as a cheap local toy it’s a blast.
  6. 1 point
    They'll idle higher when cold. Mine idles up 1500ish when it's cold, then drops once it warms up (FSM says 750 RPM +/- 50). The EF&EC section of the service manual does have a procedure for adjusting the idle speed, but it assumes that the truck is running properly to begin with--don't adjust the IACV to try and mask some other issue. What's yours doing? If you don't have the service manual, the '90 manual from cardiagn is probably as close as you'll find for your '92. Nico has a '94/'95 manual that is mostly the same, but I keep finding out about weird little things that changed around '93.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Some late night shenanigans with Kirk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 1 point
    Hey guys! Haven't been on here in forever but I'm back! Heres a pic of my pathfinder now closer than ever to being on the road since I bought it 5 years ago for $400 [emoji28] Heres a before and after: Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    I can finally report that the power valve screws are done turns out none of them were missing or loose, but I locktited them anyway to be safe. Even though the job seemed like a waste of 4 hours, at least now I have peace of mind. Going to be taking a long road trip soon, so I’m glad I know for sure that they won’t be falling out when I had it running in the garage to confirm that I put everything back together properly, I noticed a faint squealing and it turned out to be an idler pulley not putting enough tension on one of the serpentine belts, so I tightened it up and the squeaking stopped. Very happy I caught it before it shredded a belt because that same thing happened a few months back on the other belt
  12. 1 point
    Great spot for switches, but interesting choice of switches. Sent from my Pathfinder
  13. 1 point
    Don’t judge my wiring job! It’s still a little rough for now. I was also trying to be as un-invasive as possible, so it’s not a super clean install. Just functional and not an eye sore
  14. 1 point
    Random parking lot picture I’ll be sure to post some more when the rock lights go on
  15. 1 point
    Its been a little while since my last update. Just got the warn manual hubs in the mail today, so I'm looking forward to installing them. I'm planning to tackle the power valve screws at the same time. I've been busy this past week with thanksgiving travelling so I haven't had a chance yet. On tuesday I finished doing the injectors and valve cover gaskets on my girlfriends 4runner. I'm still not done though, I found a crack in the passenger side cover so I'm going to replace it as soon as the part comes in. The damn thing is also starting to hesitate when you give it more than a light suggestion of throttle as you're starting off from a stop light, so I also have to look into that. Maybe TPS, but I'm not sure what could have changed since I never messed with it during the disassembly or reassembly. Anyway, Ill stop there so I dont get bashed for talking toyota lol On the pathy I installed a hitch mounted shackle which has already seen some use pulling people out of the snow. I picked up a smittybuilt trail jack (HiLift) and mounted it to the front brushguard in a spot thats not really noticeable but also keeps it easily accessible, rather than having to take it off the roof and fumble around risking damage. I also put on a set of rear facing light pods and I have a set of rock lights that I'll be installing along the running boards in the near future. To keep the dash clean, I've been wiring everything to a single switch panel mounted just forward of the dome lights (where the sunglasses holder used to be). So far, the main light bar, undercarriage camera monitor, and rear facing lights are all wired up, and once the rock lights go on, I can finish the job by closing off some open space that is leaving the wires exposed because the switch panel doesn't cover the entire hole. There's a fifth switch thats separate from the others and I've been brainstorming ideas on what to do with it. Yes I could just get some yellow fogs and mount those to the brush guard down low, but what fun is that?? Its also got a push button "ignition" style switch next to it, so my mind immediately jumps to having some sort of crazy contraption wired up to a two stage system where you have to first toggle the switch to arm and then push the button to activate. I have no idea what contraption would be cool enough to warrant a system like that, but I don't think surface to air missiles are a legal vehicle customization, so I'll have to skip that one.......for now. I ordered a wavian 5 gallon jerry can yesterday and was playing around with the idea of mounting it to an aluminum plate, and then attaching the assembly to the truck with some sort of hinged mechanism where the spare tire usually goes (underneath the truck). I'll be getting a full sized spare soon and likely a swinging carrier to mount it on, so the space would be unused. Maybe the switches could be wired to a door solenoid that catches the edge plate and holds it, and when its activated the solenoid could release the gate and allow access to the jerry can? I'd have to measure how much room there is in the spare tire well of course, and then find a solenoid with a strong bolt that is normally extended rather than retracted so that turning the truck off doesnt dump the jerry can. But I think it would be possible. The main thing I'm trying to avoid is having a big ugly gas can sticking straight up on the roof. Oh yeah and I've also got an NPORA sticker coming in the mail next week, so thats pretty sweet. The rig is starting to come together now, and its really exciting. My girl is getting mad that I cant stop staring at it through the window whenever we go out to eat haha. Thanks a lot guys, I blame all of you for this obsession
  16. 1 point
    Made it up to the snow after Thanksgiving. We just had a baby, so it was his first trip in the pathfinder. Definitely more stressful on the trails the first time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    Denver got hit hard. Pathy didn’t seem to mind though. I’m surprised how well the mudders did
  18. 1 point
    i go by fleenz. i am a young and foolish dude who hates haircuts and likes cars. with that being said, i am likely to make various mistakes including piddling around with my first and current vehicle, a 1988 SE pathy with 167k miles on it and counting. i am its second owner. apologies for the night photo but it's the most recent one i have. i affectionately call her the Leaky Susan. because somewhere the transmission fluid's dripping out and it's anywhere but the pan. every time i refill the fluid, i scream from the inside. on the plus side, it marks its territory. that's MY parking spot. i notice that off-roading is a major subject here on this forum but appreciates the pathfinder as a whole, so i assume i'm a minority of the forum regarding off-roading habits; not only for my ignorance in appropriate conversion to such activity for my vehicle and absolute inexperience of the sort, but also for where i am located. a big ol' city full of nothing. i mainly use the leaky susan as my daily driver to my job where i work six days a week and grovel over useless job searching e-mails, because young person and money. even though i do not usually travel out of my district in the Leaky Susan, i have dreams which put me in a setting where i at least barely survived a cross-country road trip in my SUV. a type of vehicle that should have that ability. alas, the only previous owner has a maintenance record like a slice of swiss cheese that makes me question the true condition of the leaky susan. so all i have left is whatever wits remain in my skull, any useful information that a rural-raised handyman can hand me, and persistent trial-and-error google searches, to help me keep this thing from utter turmoil as long as i possibly can. or if it meets a sudden fate in a collision (given a chance i do survive without airbags) that it was completely out of my own responsibility. the leaky susan is my first vehicle. i do not want to take her for granted, even at my age and limited intuition. so here's to being smarter, one brain cell and a 10mm at a time.
  19. 1 point
    How the hell did you get that pivot pin out with the tabs intact? I quickly lost patience with mine and gave it a very aggressive haircut. I'd almost forgotten about it until I saw your picture and wondered why it made me angry. What went wrong with the booster? Also, nobody chooses the piss-bottle life. The piss-bottle life chooses you.
  20. 1 point
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Section 3 of the Washington state Backcountry Discovery Route with @RainGoat
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Should be a relatively easy swap, just use parts from later model truck, I would think anyway. Others here would likely know better. I'm eventually gonna gut the drivetrain and go SBF, like a mild 302 in my 95 and do a solid axle swap. Dana 44 front and a Dana 60 or 9 inch rear. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
    With the additional lift in the rear and rake my tires clear the fenders now, so I removed my homemade bumpstops that were on the bottom of the spring perch. 3.5" inches would be great but I just have to make sure that the coils don't get unseated which would make it pointless lol.
  26. 1 point
    Banned for not being positive...ally'all.
  27. 1 point
    This Nissan proved itself today. We went to Sheep Wallow in Dawsonville GA and we were faced with more than we expected. We pulled in with a Jeep behind us and when we got to the trail head he called for us to ask where the “big mud hole” was. His buddy drove into the same mud hole that murdered my engine earlier this year! So I agreed to lead him down there.. So there are two paths to the 4ft deep mud hole and I accidentally chose the wrong one because I was nervous. The path I chose was only wrong because I do not have a solid front axel and the divots were HUGE! I had at least one wheel off the ground the entire time down that path!!! It was way more than I’ve ever done. Once we all got to the stuck red Jeep, the black Jeep winched him out. His engine survived because the intake is on the passenger side. Check out how deep this thing is; that water is up to his butt and would’ve been even worse but he caught himself before sinking into the rut. His Jeep is centered on the ridge. Next things got down right scary. We literally feared for our lives and the two guys riding with me jumped out to save theirs as we were sliding. I stayed with the vehicle because it looked to be dry(er) just before the cliff. We came around a curve on to the power line trail and to our right was a giant deep hole and we began to slide into it. Just before it was too late I let off the brakes and began to head straight for the literal cliff. You can see where I was sliding toward the hole here. And here are what you can see of the slide marks toward the cliff and then the cliff itself. I was trembling after it finally stopped and my tongue stuck to the top of my mouth. I was SCARED. Everything was fine after that though I did get stuck in some deep thick mud and winched out. On the way out I had to go back up that slippery hill from before.. I rode the edge of the cliff where it was dry to avoid filling my tread with mud and then once I was lined up I gunned the crap out of it and made it back up! Here are a couple pics of the scenery and us. I am very proud of my vehicle. It did a great job today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 1 point
    Check the brass-looking cap on the snout of the differential, behind the pinion flange. It can get misaligned and rub on the snout cast a little as it rotates, though probably not enough to make considerable noise. Another thing on the driveline are the pinion bearings, though hopefully thats fine considering youve buttoned everything back up. Perhaps u-joints need greasing or replacement?
  29. 1 point
    ... suddenly I've got this urge to check my rear wheel bearings. I've repacked my fronts but didn't even think to check the rears. Anyone repack theirs as preventative maintenance?
  30. 1 point
    Surprisingly, this actually isn't an unexpected result for this sort of failure. It's inherent to the semi-float axle design we have. The only thing that keeps the axle shaft attached to the truck is the wheel bearing. It's highly improbable that the shaft will actually slide out of the bearing (they require several tons of force to press together), but it only takes a couple dislodged or damaged rollers to allow the cone to slip from the race. In his 2nd to last pic, you can see that the inner cone has this massive score halfway up the cone, and a lip on the cone—where the outside of the rollers would rest against—is completely gone. The weakest link, then, is the bearing. Although there's a plastic retainer that seems flimsy, it's function is pretty low-duty. But like any bearing, debris, poor/deteriorated lubrication (i.e., water, gear oil contamination), and heat will be the death of it. Once a roller binds, it becomes a chain reaction, imminent doom.
  31. 1 point
    Yeah, not following. If the bearing is toast, you can either replace it (bearing is $19 from RA but you'll need a floor press), or get a complete RH axle shaft with brakes from any donor 96-00 R50, and then it's just bolt-on and some brake work. If the lock nut on the axle shaft shot off from the pressure, then the axle shaft probably can't be re-used...you'll need to look at the threads on the axle shaft above the bearing to confirm. Then buy a new lock nut and lock nut retainer. I can provide some pics if you want to see the breakdown. If you're desperate, I think I can also build you a full assembly...I think I have everything I need in my garage right now.
  32. 1 point
    Do you actually need new innards? You should be able to get away with installing a new right axle shaft, unless the bearing failure damaged other things besides the shaft.
  33. 1 point
    Well, mine is my first car. I actually kind of didn't like it at first (what's this thing, Japanese? IFS? Ew!) (I wanted a Jeep or Ford truck really bad) but now that I have it, I love it! It has completely gotten me into Japanese automobiles, and am even interested in JDM cars and stuff now, something I had always frowned upon. In my opinion, many of us got into it on accident, and now we have a sickness; but a good one.
  34. 1 point
    Nissan oil pumps are very durable. Drop the pan to see if the screen is plugged and check the oil filter. I have had after market oil filters plug up even brand new. I would take off the oil filter and crank the engine over. If you are getting oil out of the block its not the pump.
  35. 1 point
    If you could make a 3.3 spin those. I'd buy you a case of cookies. Your choice. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  36. 1 point
    When you are constantly going out to the driveway to look at a component or take a measurement to answer someone's questions on NPORA! B
  37. 1 point
    Or when you jump in the passenger seat and marvel at the abundance of leg room compared to new vehicles.
  38. 1 point
    Figured since I've used these "How to" threads SO many times that I'd give something back. This is my first "How to" guide so bear with me. In the FSM they call this a "Compression Rod"..@ my local Auto parts place it was called in the computer a "Strut Rod" and I've always called them a "Tension Rod" so whatever floats your boat. Ok here we go. So, to start look just behind the front wheels of your rig. See that Rod going from the LCA to the frame? That is your Strut Rod. You'll notice one black rubber bushing on one side of where it bolts to your frame and one on the other. Although the bushings may look fine, they're not, trust me. Unless they've been changed recently, change them. The bushing kit was $20 with my 40% discount at local auto parts store (Lordco) Time to complete: 2 hours (To be safe) Skill level: Easy Parts Needed: Moog Strut Rod Bushing Kit (1 Kit) Included in the kit is: (4) Strut Rod Bushings (4) Metal Washers (2) Strut Rod Sleeves Tools Required: 19mm Deep Socket 19mm Box Wrench 22mm Deep Socket 15/16 Box wrench Small Pry bar or flat blade screwdriver Your favourite penetrating lube (I used "Move-it) Air Impact gun (If you have it, easier) Torque Wrench So to start: Couple hours before you do this go and spray the 3 bolts per wheel with penetrating lube. you'll regret it otherwise. 1) Jack up one side of your rig (Use a Jack stand please, not a cinder block, not a tire, not a chunk of wood. I use 3 Ton Stands. You're neck is under the brake rotor basically while pulling on wrenches so...DO IT right or game over.) Just so the tire is off the ground then remove the wheel. 2)Remove the Rear most nut securing the Rod to the frame bracket. You'll need the 15/16" wrench as the torsion bars (or the bracket) won't allow you to get a socket in there. 3) Remove the 2 bolts securing the Rod to the LCA. 19mm Wrench on the top of the bolt and 22mm Socket underneath to get the nut off. I used air impact which makes it easier but a good 1/2" drive ratchet will do. 4) Pull the thing out. After the 2 bolts and 1 nut are removed it'll come out. You may have to pry the rear most bushing from the backside of the frame->rod bracket to allow you to pull it out. 5) After it's out, set it on your work space and look @ the rust, destroyed bushings and (if you're lucky like me) the part where the sleeve wore right through onto the actual rod.
  39. 1 point
    Nah it wasnt those. It was this guy, which took a tremendous amount of googleing to figure out what it was! Appologies for my poor explanation - I was a bit flustered. Turns out I cant be stuffed ordering one and waiting around. So I made a new one... Its an ugly sucker... Found some scrap pipe at the shop Was out of argon, so I used MIG gas on the TIG. Worked well enough for me! I'm not great at welding out pipe anyway. Welded out and cleaned up a bit Hit it with cold galv inside and out, to possibly slow down the rust. One of the little pipes was stainless, but the other and the filler is mild steel. It's installed and works a treat!! Went out for a test drive and my brakes dont work. But I'll make another post for that... Cheers, Taylor
  40. 1 point
    When you swear up and down at it for hours over whatever idiotic design or stuck fastener is fighting you, and then forget all about it once it's back together.
  41. 1 point
    When you find another pathy owner in your town from Facebook npora and your instantly bros.
  42. 1 point
    Today I replaced the old busted console, with the lid that stayed open so you rested your arm on sharp plastic. The one I picked up is from a 2001 isuzu rodeo. I had to rework the e brake handle. I raised it about an inch and welded it to the floor plate about 1.5" off center. This console feels great on the elbow and has cup holders! It just took a long time to figure out mounting.
  43. 1 point
    When your suspension lift only costs you 30 bucks for some springs at the junkyard and a few hours work....
  44. 1 point
    When you sit there and floor the gas, just to see a smart car fly by.
  45. 1 point
    Conversely, when comeone can't find your rear door handle... (actually had that happen, but then the same person complimented me on my Jeep, so....) B
  46. 1 point
    When you completely miss the rear door handle on someones else's car.
  47. 1 point
    6) If you're as picky and fortunate as me, to have a sandblaster, I just tossed the rod in the cabinet and blasted it quick to get the rust off. then put some tremclad on it. (Ignore the washer that I didn't take off yet, wack it with a hammer to get it off and put the new one on) 7) Reassemble it as it came apart. Washer, bushing (through the bracket) then bushing, washer, then the nut on the back. 8) It's kinda of a PITA to get back in since the bushings are all new n'stuff so what I did was got it all assembled back through the bracket and zip-tied the rod thru the bolt holes on the LCA until I got the rear most nut tight enough to allow the bolt holes to line back up on the LCA. this also prevents the rod from twisting when you're trying to tighten the rear nut. Then cut the zip-ties and put the bolts back through the LCA and tighen. 9) Torque the nuts down to 100ft/lbs (FSM says 97-108ft/lb I believe, so whatever.) 10) Put the wheel back on, lower your rig down, then start on the opposite side. It's exactly the same on both sides. 11) After all is said and done. Take it for a spin. 12) Have a beer, relax and stare at your rig knowing a job well done! Drive around for a day or so then re-torque the bolts again to make sure they didnt losen off. Any questions, Post them up! Thanks! More how-to guides to come!
  48. 1 point
    I've already posted but I gotta say... What ever suits your needs as long as its a wd21(framed)You got kids or carry more people then get a 4 door(preforabley a 94-95 for the vg30E that has 105 timing belt interviles)If you like flying solo then get a 2 door(less power with these though).Sure some can say 2 doors are better then 4 and others can say 4 is better then 2...but come on,isnt it all kinda childish,what are we,ford vs chevy guys.My trucks better then your truck(hehehehe) no its not duece bag,mines better(hahahaha).It really comes down to ones own preferance,not what other think. Oh,and buy the way...there are 3 doors and five doors...(the rear hatch can be used as a door in a pinch) 5 door pathys ftw.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Is the 95 an R50? If thats so then it doesn't count. it's not a real pathfinder.

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