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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Garage day w @RainGoat &@ferrariowner123
  2. 8 points
    Hey y’all! Doing a little update on what’s been going on with the Pathy and some upgrades hawairish and I plan to tackle this weekend. For starters, this Pathy already fell into my hands with a -3” SFD -4.636 gear swap -R200 Lokka -H233B LSD rear diff (repacked @ 150 lb/ft torque) -airlift 1000 -3” strut spacers -2” coil spacers -Warren Manual hubs And much more in the link below http:// https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/2002-pathfinder-r50-overland-build.134475/ Originally this pathfinder was Duke90’s, my brother, he then later sold it to me and I’ve had the truck over the last 10 months or so. As his was, this Pathy is also my DD and within the first month I notice some pulling and vibration on the passenger side wheel which eventually became so severe I had to garage it till I could tow it out for repair. The damage from what I later understood was a crack on the subframe cross arm which attaches also to my control arm. That side of the frame was completely torn from the bolt. *I assume this was initially caused by some prior trips we did in the Pathy. Never heavily offroaded but did do 300+ miles of various overlanding terrain with no ‘missing link’. I’m assuming this initially created some sort of damage that had slowly got progressively worse. I figure it must of been a drop or rough hit because the damage needed a lot of force for such a tear to occur. I had great difficulty finding a fabrication shop willing to take on the repair. I mean not even collision centers wanted to touch it but from one referral to another I finally got in touch with tnj performance and got my Pathy back on the road again. Note: the truck sat till around the middle of August (with frequent starts to continuously run fluids). Since then I’ve been fortunate enough to be in touch with hawairish and added a aluminum mid-skid and ‘missing-link’ to the truck. I’ve taken it on my first 4x4 trip to cathedral valley/canyon lands/ spider rock/ Tucson and then Anza borrego on the SoCal xterra event and ocotillo Wells after. Have had no problems then and since the trip so all seems clear with the repair. (Put roughly 4K miles on during this time) As for the parts update This weekend [user]hawairish[/user] and I are planning to do -LR Defender 90 Rear coil springs #NRC9448 -Bilstein 5165s #25-261400 -Viair 485c OBA install Keeping the rear spacers this should bring the Pathy up to a 4” lift in the rear and the much added convenience of OBA that also future proofs the Pathy for adding air-lockers if eventually decided. I’m happy to have this truck and looking forward to all the additions we’ll go through and trips we’ll make through the years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 8 points
  4. 6 points
  5. 6 points
    I'm torn! Love @hawairish's ride (and the amazing work he does to benefit this community & our rigs), but I'm in love with how clean and well put-together @02_Pathy
  6. 6 points
    It's not really a brush guard, it's a whole bumper, so its mounts don't have to work around the factory bumper cover or crash bar or whatever. I assume it bolts straight to the unibody where the factory bumper mounts, where the body's built to take that kind of load. The nice thing about RainGoat's guards is that if they do fail, there's only so much damage they're gonna do to what's behind them; they don't have a big tall section to slap back against the body and cause damage away from the site of the actual impact. Worst case, your bumper cover gets screwed up, and that was gonna take a hit either way. Looks like a good setup and sounds like they were well-built.
  7. 5 points
    Hello everybody, I’ve registered a few days ago and have been reading posts ever since. Beginning to feel like I should introduce myself. I'm an avid car guy, and am into Pontiac muscle cars, which is where 100% of my restoration knowledge comes from. My wife and I recently had a baby, which meant it was time to make some cuts and save money where we could, it was a choice between selling my Range Rover or my fun cars, so I've got rid of my Range Rover and decided to build the perfect winter vehicle instead. I’ve always been a fan of Pathfinders, and have owned a few through the years; my first was a white 98 with a 5speed, I loved that thing but I live at 4000ft altitude which means the already underpowered 3.3L was way too underpowered and the interior left a bit to be desired. I sold that vehicle and bought a 2001 QX4, which fixed the power and interior issues but it felt just a tad bit too civilized, what I really wanted was a Pathfinder on the outside and a QX4 on the inside. Now I’ve found one, it’s a project but seeing as I’m saving a thousand dollars a month on a range rover payment my wife is letting me spend whatever I need to on it. About my Pathfinder: There was a guy locally selling a 2002 Pathfinder LE for parts. After seeing it I took pity on the vehicle, the kid who owned it had really done a number on it. The plastic plate under the vehicle had been removed for some time, which meant all the gravel and salt thrown onto the roads had been thrown up into the engine bay, the front of the engine is plated with rust, and the clutch fan had been torn to pieces. The radiator shroud was no where to be seen, and the radiator catch can has been replaced with an empty one quart motor oil bottle, there is some very questionable wiring, and the tail lights are mismatched. But that was all that was wrong with it, the vehicle had surprisingly little rust ( only some spots from rock chips on the roof above the windshield ), which is all I really care about. The plan is to restore and modify the Pathfinder just like I would any muscle or sports car, but the object isn’t speed it’s making the best winter vehicle possible. It needs to fire up after sitting at -40, needs to be able to pull itself out of ditches, climb hills, stop on short notice, and basically deliver me to the office every morning regardless of the size of any snow storm. It also needs to be able to haul me, regardless of the weather, to any commercial or rural property I may need to get to for work. Our current ride, a Mercedes Benz GLK gets stuck just leaving my neighbourhood in the winter. I’ve gone and ordered a JDM VQ35, and have a complete parts vehicle for anything else I may need ( I’m sure I’ll need plenty ). I know I have my work cut out for me, and am incredibly glad I found a forum full of people who have experience with this vehicle because it’s all new to me.
  8. 5 points
    Back to Cali we go, cheers to [user]hawairish[/user] on many more meets and trips to come! Learned a new lesson called F*%# Pneumatics in a quick 4 day 50+ hour class. Final result was really really good, artful in a sense. Updates to come. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 5 points
    Hi I'm new to NPORA and semi new to Nissan. I got 2 pathys: one is a gray on black 99 r50 vg33 2x4 stock that I picked up randomly 5 years ago because I needed transportation and the other I just picked up a week ago because i fell in love with pathys and it brought back my dream of making a runner/crawler. It is a gray black on black 03 r50 vg35 4x4 stock also. I've always wanted to build a runner/crawler and I think that my 03 r50 will be it. I've tinkered with cars for more than 15 years so I know a good amount about working on them. I could be called a garage mechanic. I'm planning on making the 03 r50 a mild project but who knows it might become a wild project if I become even more in love with it. Any help along the way to my dream would be much appreciated. Oh and I'm in Northern California near Roseville and I would like to join any meets if there are any to share any ideas and info on these rings. My plans for this rig is: *Front winch bumper *Rear HD / more clearance bumper *Maybe 2-3" lift *Bigger tires 31s or 33s, whichever will fit better *Nice roof rack for cargo and maybe tent conversion *All around led lighting bars and pods *Interior ideas ( storage, led lighting and guage lighting) *******and probably other stuff along the way *Pics of my loves coming soon*  P.S. sorry for the long intro, I'm just soo excited about finding this site. 
  10. 4 points
    Hello all it’s me again. So I have some free time right now where I thought I would do a quick write up. So I’ll be going over how I installed my light bar into the bumper for a clean look and also without the use of a brush guard or other mounting bar.Then I’ll go over on how I installed amber lights into the grill to mimic what every 4runner does lol. Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. So with the light bar I used a 30 inch china bar that is spot middle and floods on either side and unfortunately I do not know what brand it is as I got it on Ebay like 2 years ago. But the important part of the bar is how it mounts. Preferably you would need a light bar with a slim adjustable bracket that goes on the body of the light bar compared to the end mounting brackets. Next you need to remove the plastic front bumper cover to trim the “teeth” in the plastic bumper and cut a notch at the end of the plastic bumper as well as expose the steel crash bar. After cutting the “teeth” off and cutting a notch you’ll need to line up the light bar as centered as possible and perfectly perpendicular to the crash bar. I used a sharpie to mark the holes as well as used a straight edge and measuring tape to get it as close as possible. Drilling in the crash bar is not easy and takes some effort but is doable. After mounting the light bar go ahead and turn it on as this is the easiest to adjust the angle of the bar before putting the plastic cover on. After you do that you’re done! It took me several times to put the bumper back on and off to trim the plastic just a little bit at a time and as well as measuring. With this setup you get no hood glare (obviously) and also more of a “stealth” look without the addition of other mounting brackets. The only downside to this is that is removes your front plate bracket which could be a bad thing in your area depending on your front plate laws. I went ahead and just put my plate in windshield and I may relocate it up to the rack potentially. For the amber lights I used Grand General 77650 amber lights off amazon. I also went ahead and bought a 99 to 01 SE grill as I was tired of the LE grill of the pathy. When it arrived it was a silver color so I had to paint it black and I got it close enough with the original black on the truck. Then thanks to@TowndawgR50 and@RainGoat for light placement I then carefully dremeled out the back to cut a notch in so the lights could be more secure as the mesh wasn’t flat. After getting the right depth and width I went ahead and super glued the lights in and as well as zip tied it to the grill as an extra precaution. I then routed the wiring between the mesh so you can’t see it and I just tapped the wiring into the cigarette lighter fuse spot. So when I turn the key the lights come on and serve as my driving lights and as well as giving it more of a unique look. I tried plugging the tap into an empty slot but it didn’t work for some reason but when I put my CB radio tap in the same slot it worked so I don’t know if it needs a switch but I’m just gonna use the cigarette lighter for now. Since I was doing “light” mods I also went ahead and installed some clear corners as well. Also currently waiting for the emblem as Nissan changed it from a stick on to a bolt on but I think USPS lost it but that's another topic. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  11. 4 points
    Got a hood from a local Pull-A-Part for $40 had to have one where the paint was in good shape. Luckily enough they had one same color to boot. Mine you can tell the entire hood clear coat is gone, it's also gone on the top of both front fenders. The pictures tell the tell. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
  12. 4 points
    Jump forward several years and I was living in another city in another state and obviously with a new group of friends. Freight trains used to pass through the city and very low speeds. Most of these trains were very long and usually had a handful or more of empty box cars on them, with the doors open. We would hop in them, along with out bikes for a quick and easy, albeit dangerous way to get across town. Really surprised no one ever got seriously hurt or killed Although at least one bike tire & wheel were not so lucky One day I remember two of us we were going to go to another friends who lived about 2 miles south of town. Luckily there was a train passing through town, headed south! What luck we thought! So we hopped it, with the intent of getting off about a mile later, before it was at a speed to fast to jump from as it accelerated into farm lands. We were bs'ing and just screwing around and before we knew it that jump point was long gone and the train was hauling-***!!! When it finally started slowing again, we jumped off and eventually figured out that we were in the next heavily populated city... about 50 or so miles south of home! Having no way to get back, we had no choice but to call one of our moms. A tense couple rounds of Rock Paper Scissors resulted in a "win" for me, so Travis reluctantly placed a collect call to his house. Lucky for us his mom was not home but her boyfriend was. He drove down and picked us up and in exchange (aka blackmail) for not telling our moms, we had to do a bunch of crap for him for the rest of the summer. Apparently he even told Travis's mom that the collect call on the bill was from his brother... as far as I know, neither of our moms ever found out what we really did that day! So did we learn from that? Come on seriously? We were in 5th grade and continued doing it through middle school too!
  13. 4 points
  14. 4 points
    Well, we're coming up on 2 years of having done this project. Glad to say everything has been holding up really well, despite not putting many miles on the truck annually. Odometer now reads 185,100, so I've only seen about 7,800 miles on them so far. At last check, pads and rotors were holding up just fine. Funny thing is that I took the truck to the nearby Nissan dealership earlier this year for the airbag recall, and their maintenance report said they were wearing low...jackasses probably had no clue what they were looking at. Still haven't looked into my ABS light, again noting that it came on several months after doing the swap. I deem them unrelated. In other news, the torch has been passed to @TowndawgR50 to also do the swap! I had been sitting on a spare set of discs for a long while now, and just shipped them up to him last week. Looking forward to seeing his take on the project and expanding this thread in the coming months.
  15. 4 points
    Here is the summary I have to date. (BTW, I have the 9448s as I'm headed towards a 3-4" SFD - not put on yet. I'm pairing them with an ARB OME Heavy Duty Front setup-also not put on yet. I'll post when it's done. I re researched purchase options & LR Direct was still the best. I paid $85 on Fri 10/12 & got them in Eastside Seattle Mon 10/15.) Land Rover Defender 90 Spring Summary http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html 5” Inner Diameter NRC9446 +2.5-3” (15Spring Ht) 0.5-1" rake c 2 front spacers 175# Spring Rate LR 90 Defender-Front Driver (0.5" longer than passenger) NRC9447 +2-2.5" (Micah got 4") 175# Spring Rate LR 90 Defender-Front Passenger NRC9448 +4(Perfect c 4"SFD), cut one coil=3" 225# Spring Rate Blue”/Red LR 90 Defender-RearRH 110 & 130 Heavy Duty-Front RH $80 Delivered from UK $84.49($32.92+$51.57) from NRC9449 +2-2.5" (same Height as NRC9447) 225# Spring Rate (heavier Load than NRC9447) 1badqx4 9446: neilca(35"F/36"R c 31"tireMid Fender Ht) 9447: 19pathfinder99, MichaelAndrews, micahfelker(37-37.5" c 31"tire, MD OME Springs, F=HD OME), thehillboys (Bilstein 1525 shocks) LR - 34 1/4" to 38 1/2" settled to 37.5" net 3 1/4" RR-33 3/4" to 38" settled to 37.5" net 3 3/4" Front 35” c Moog OEM Springs, KYB Struts & 1 1/2" spacer LF - 32 1/2" to 35 net 2 1/2" (slightly uneven shop floor) LR- 32" to 35 net 3" Rake 2.5” 9448: hawairish, TowndawgR50, Bax03SE(37"F/38"R c 33"tire Mid Fender Ht-1 coil cut), drewp29 9449: 03Troutfinder (36.5" from 34", same ht as OEM Spring+2”spacer) Order from LRdirect Brands-few reviews on LR forums say Brit Part (c8) springs held up better than OEM Land Rover against sagging Please let me know if there are any corrections that need to be made & take mid fender measurements at wheel center & fender as well as supply your wheel & tire size. Thanks!
  16. 4 points
    Agree. I know both owners some and both are good guys. @02_Pathy rig is beautiful but there are very few other Paths out there as nice as thoroughly & thoughtfully modified as[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention]. BTW, the vote buttons don’t show up on TapaTalk which is what I use 90% of the time.
  17. 4 points
    I think the idle is just a QD thing, dad's has always been rough. Here's a pic side by side
  18. 3 points
    Me too (and I know how they turned out!). He’s probably still recovering from the weekend! He got to experience firsthand the marathon workload his brother and I did the last time the truck was in my garage...despite having “only” three things to do this time around (shocks, springs, compressor), it was far from being simple installs. We put in some really long hours, I felt pretty bad with how long all the mods took, but the end result seems worth it and I think the community will be pleased by the work. I got some pics, but I’ll wait for him to show-and-tell!
  19. 3 points
    I had a guy in a squeaky clean wrangler call mine an Isuzu.. he said “that winch on the front of your Isuzu for looks?” I said back “that Nissan has been places you’ll never go” he started saying something about some place he had been but I was already walking away.
  20. 3 points
    No-brand are exact SAME hubs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 3 points
    You're in great hands. @hawairish is the man. I love the 5160's paired up with the LR springs. I run the wider, open forest routes up here (Scenic Mtn Loop Hwy) at a pretty good clip( 30-50mph) and the type of grading they do creates 2 1/2ft wide wash boarding thats about 4-6" deep from peak to shallow. With my old OME MD springs and 5100's I'd get rear end "float" and the truck never felt stable in those conditions, especially in cornering. Now the truck is tight, easy to control at speed and corners with no rear end "float". I think you're going to love them. Make sure to check for clearance at full droop and compression. Depending on your wheel/tire offet you may need yo make some adjustments to avoid contact with the shocks and reservoir. What reservoir clamp hardware are you going with?
  22. 3 points
    If you want a lift, the easiest thing to do is to purchase new coil springs and shocks, then take them to the shop and tell them "hey, my old coil springs are sagging, and my shocks are worn out" and ask them to install these new coil springs and shocks that you got. If the front struts are still OK, you can re-use them, but if they're tired and worn, you should replace them with the springs, since the labor to replace the spring is the same as to replace the strut, too. You don't have to tell them that your new parts provide any significant lift. The shop you used simply isn't familiar with suspension lifts for MacPherson strut-based IFS. The only thing I have run into is that some shops refuse to install customer-supplied parts due to liability/warranty-claim issues. After the springs are installed, of course, you should get an alignment. Camber bolts (which usually correct for positive camber after lifting) may or may not be required, but the toe angle will be off. Also, with any lift, the front CV axles will be at a higher angle and could accelerate wear on the CV boots, and may potentially introduce mild vibration of the CV joints. If you want to mitigate these issues post-lift-install, you may consider installing manually hubs on the front wheels to disengage the front drivetrain while you're not using 4WD.
  23. 3 points
    Definitely swap those bushings haha, it’s going to be worth it by the looks of it (and really help narrow things down if it isn’t the fix). If you have the cash, buying the whole arm assemblies with pre-pressed bushings will save you a crap ton of work. I otherwise had to use a press and large impact sockets to get those suckers in and out of the arms. With a big press, it was easy. Never would have gotten it done without one, however.
  24. 3 points
    Alot of fun.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] did all the real work, I catered & learned while [mention=32880]ferrariowner123[/mention] advised & supplied tools. Boy, that picture sure makes it look nicer outside than the dreary, wet, PNW day that it was. Thanks for hosting & all your help[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention]. Ha, ha, doesn’t my truck look tiny next to TowndawgR50’s. His lady said it looked like his truck’s baby!
  25. 3 points
    Well let’s talk about the vibration characteristics. How would you describe the vibration? Is it low frequency like death wobble? Or is it a medium frequency like the hum of your engine? Or high frequency like the roar of a wheel bearing? When the CVs (both at same time) went bad in our old MDX it was a combination of medium frequency vibrations that waxed and waned with very low frequency and violent vibrations that increased with acceleration. When my steering rack bushings gave out the vibrations were low frequency and could be seen in the shaking of the steering wheel side to side. When my drivers side wheel bearing went out there was what seemed like white noise at highway speeds with vibrations that felt like traveling over ice in a sled at lower speeds. When my control arm bushing went out is was also low frequency and extremely violent.. like shake the car so hard you can’t see straight violent.

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