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Custom 2WD steering system conversion


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The factory 4WD steering systems suffer from 2 flaws. The first being that the factory dog-bone style center link will flex really bad, especially on lifted vehicles and bend the crap out of the tie rod ends. The second is that the twisting motion of the center link will negatively impact the idler arm and either ruin it or rip it off completely. There are a few solutions to this problem but the one I liked the most was combining the 2WD system with the 4WD system. Doing so should greatly improve the steering feel and response. This setup will also eliminate the flaw of the center link twisting and allow you to jack up the front end as high as possible with zero issues to the steering. In this thread I am going to show what to do to get a hybrid 2WD and 4WD system suitable for street use and off-road.

 

Basically you need a 2WD center link, 2 4WD adjusting sleeves, 2 inner 2WD tie rods, and 2 inner 4WD tie rods (preferably heavy duty or "problem solver" type). I also got an ACDelco factory style idler arm and a steering enhancement package from 4x4parts.com.

 

https://www.4x4parts...age-p-2582.html

 

6f3c5ec68f09b8897d866632ecff4fb4.jpg

Edited by Tungsten
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Optional (only needed if your steering box is bad and if you have a box made before 1992, the setup will work fine): Get the newer style steering box from the junkyard and rebuild it or at least clean it up... Don't forget the lines because the fittings are different on newer style boxes.

 

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WARNING!!!

 

If you are going to use the newer box, DO NOT use the newer pitman arm. Only a 1991-1992 pitman arm will work properly with a newer box in this setup. The reason for that is the tapered hole for the joint on the newer pitman arm is of slightly larger diameter. You can end up destroying the joint on the 2WD center link if you run the newer pitman arm.

 

pitmans.JPG

 

Credit to nissannut for this picture.

 

GOOD

 

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BAD

 

543271_10150841428864075_612879074_9682445_144343891_n.jpg

Edited by Tungsten
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A decent steering stabilizer will make the steering system last much longer. For this project I used a Bilstein steering stabilizer:

 

430317_10150615554649075_612879074_9155401_1874487766_n.jpg

 

The first thing you want to do is remove the factory mount for the steering stabilizer from the center link. The factory steering stabilizer is not that great and the mount isn't as beefy as it should be. A bigger aftermarket stabilizer should be much better anyway. The OEM mount will need to be cut off to not interfere with the new aftermarket mount. Just cut the spot welds and whack it off with a big hammer.

 

426036_10150613888404075_612879074_9150268_376143256_n.jpg

 

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Bilstein suggests to put the dust boot toward the center link.

 

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When assembling the stabilizer make sure to put the washer with the groove on first. The groove goes over the rounded off piece so that the washer is flat against the stabilizer.

 

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Then install the bushing...

 

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Finally the side that would go to the driver's side (left hand drive) frame rail would look like this:

 

422378_10150615555774075_612879074_9155407_1910196299_n.jpg

 

The bracket that would attach to the center link would look like this:

 

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The whole assembly should look like this:

 

418567_10150615557024075_612879074_9155415_1002089476_n.jpg

 

The straight bracket goes to the frame rail on the passenger side (where the idler arm is located) on the inside part of the frame while the U-bolts attach to the center link.

Note 1: The mounting hardware for the stabilizer is a little loose in my pictures because the nuts are thread locking. Everything should (obviously) be tightened when it's installed.

Note 2: Alternatively you can mount the stabilizer bracket to the driver's side instead.

Edited by Tungsten
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With regards to the placement of the steering stabilizer bracket, the install manual recommends to put it on the passenger side.

 

The bracket would go on the other side of these two holes:

 

424512_10150624738749075_612879074_9191610_1614998050_n.jpg

 

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That way it is as close to the center link as possible:

 

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Alternatively, it will also bolt to the driver's side:

 

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Some kits might have a bracket to go on the side of the idler arm that is more toward the front but this was not the case for me...

 

428148_10150617248159075_612879074_9161804_1181070512_n.jpg

Edited by Tungsten
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The next thing to do here is to add a brace to the idler arm. I used a so called AC brace from 4x4parts. Put the idler arm into a vise and remove the nut with an impact (it's a tough nut to remove when not on the truck) and slide the brace right over and then tighten the nut back down. Before re-installing the nut, using thread locker such as Loc-Tite is optional but I used it anyway. The nut should be on there pretty tight, the FSM calls for 40-51 ft lbs. Do not remove the flat washer, just remove the nut and install the brace right over.

 

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Check out the zerk fitting nut on the back. The best thing about this brace is it leaves that space open.

 

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This is pretty straightforward. Also, unless you want to rebuild your old idler arm, you can discard those white plastic bushings that come in the kit.

 

My brace did not fit perfectly over the bottom hole and had to be slotted out:

 

426889_10150617247654075_612879074_9161799_1951504212_n.jpg

 

Do the trying and measuring ahead of time! Any machine shop should be able to fix these types of things.

 

UPDATE: Finally got that arm fixed!

 

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1 more thing to add here: The fender washers that came with the kit were what looked like 3/8" and were a little too big for the bolt so I got a set of 7/16" washers instead.

 

403824_10150654605359075_612879074_9302172_611350455_n.jpg

 

Edited by Tungsten
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Now for the fun part...

 

These are the inner and outer tie rod ends from the 4WD system:

 

424159_10150615551284075_612879074_9155387_1732774342_n.jpg

 

They look identical right? They are the same. The only difference is in the right-hand vs. left-hand threading. You want the left-hand thread tie rods only, which are the inner tie rods on the 4WD setup but they are used as outer tie rods on this setup. Do not confuse them.

 

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Now here are the 2WD inner tie rod ends at the bottom:

 

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They are 2mm thicker than the 4WD tie rod ends so the adjusting sleeves will need to be bored out half-way and re-tapped. Eventually the adjuster should bring the tie rod ends closer together or further apart for toe alignment purposes. For this to happen properly, you need to use 2 inner 4WD tie rod ends coupled with 2 inner 2WD tie rod ends.

 

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Inner 2WD tie rods will not couple with outer 4WD tie rods. The top combination (inner to inner) works, the bottom (inner to outer) one does not. The side with the tick marks is left hand thread and should be on the 4WD tie rod.

 

Tip 1: Don't forget to install the zerk fittings.

 

When it's all done the bored out sleeves should look like this (notice the tick marks, DO NOT TAP ON TICK MARK SIDE):

 

480165_10150643200194075_612879074_9257631_2005761117_n.jpg

 

The final product looks like this:

 

480165_10150643200184075_612879074_9257630_1415340067_n.jpg

 

Tip 2: Don't forget to put anti-sieze on the tie rod threads so that the adjusters don't ever freeze on the tie rods.

 

Some more pictures:

 

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Edited by Tungsten
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The hardcore part is coming up... :lol:

It's custom fab because this is a complete hack job. I'm fixing what isn't broken and trying new things.

Edited by Tungsten
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Some good news, some bad news...

 

The good news is I finally got the thread tapped in there. The bad news is the shop put the tap on the wrong side and destroyed the thread that I needed for this to work.

 

419529_10150629475769075_612879074_9206032_688208477_n.jpg

 

FIXED:

 

480165_10150643200194075_612879074_9257631_2005761117_n.jpg

Edited by Tungsten
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Looking good so far brother!

Yea you might have found a good alternative. I thought about trying this but everyone I talked to said it wasn't as strong so I didn't give it another thought. Make an extra set and send it to unccpathfinder, if he cant break it your good!

James

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I found that the real trick to doing this properly is to actually use the special "problem solver" 2WD inner tie rod ends that are slightly meatier than the factory 2WD inner tie rod ends. No way you are bending those, they are as strong as the radius arms that connect to the center link (and it is possible to further reinforce the inner tie rods if you don't like their funky shape). The other thing here that helps quite a bit is to use a real steering stabilizer which will make those tie rods nearly indestructible and effectively double or even triple the entire life of the steering system. Putting a brace on the idler arm is a good idea as well because it puts better torsional rigidity on the idler arm shaft and helps to keep the steering tighter.

 

I'm definitely going to try and see how far this build can go before bragging about it. My favorite part about this setup is that it allows the steering system to be ran at virtually any angle so extreme flexing and high lifts are possible without screwing the steering up at all. The other thing that I absolutely love about this style of tie rods is that they put more leverage on the wheels which will make the steering have much less feedback than the 4WD center link setup. The first thing I will do when I get this installed is to actually crank up the torsion bars to the point where the upper bump stops are just 0.5" away from the UCAs. Then try to go on the same type of trails that pigeon toe the people that run a lift with a stock 4WD center link. Finally I am going to report the results back to the forum.

 

Stay tuned!

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I don't see how this is "hardcore custom fab" but ok...

May not be a full on SAS or roof chop or something (and I have no personal plans of using it) but it is still a form of fab.

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Decided to get a new nut for the pitman arm...

 

484436_10150635301364075_612879074_9233553_1572973380_n.jpg

 

New sleeves came today, I hope my shop gets it right now.

 

EDIT: Done.

 

Also, how I organize my cotter pins to avoid losing them. :lol:

 

552928_10150654605499075_612879074_9302173_1561659118_n.jpg

Edited by Tungsten
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I would too if I had the right drill and the right tap. They have a lot of fancy equipment I don't have though so that can make the sleeve more precise. I'm going to mark exactly how I want something done next time. :headwall:

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I have questions...... :lol:

 

1) How will a steering stabilizer increase the life of the steering system and/or make it stronger? The stabilizer does not help support the ball joints in any of the components at all. If, for instance, the passenger side tire hits a rock or other obstacle hard enough, or repeatedly, the ball joints on that side will all take the hit. The stabilizer MAY cushion the shock from the other side of the truck, that I'd even debate, as vibration, like anything, will take the path of least resistance. It can't do anything more, logically. The only thing a stabilizer does is mask steering problems. This is why I'm generally against them.

 

2) Introducing bent components into the steering system is asking for trouble IMHO. The steering system is designed to run in straight lines. Lifting creates "bends" in the system, which creates leverage, which screws up the stock centerlink. I can see how this CL will resist those forces better, as there's no "dogbone" to leverage up, causing the twisting, but the 2wd inner ends with the bend will become a weak point. I can see those folding up even worse than WD22 tie rods do. I don't see how this design is not just a matter of relocating the problem?

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I imagine the stabilizer does exactly what it's supposed to: it cuts down on vibrations. Without stuff shaking around, the bushings/joints/etc last longer. I'm not sure about 2-3x longer, but whatever. It's not designed or expected to do anything about the conditions that straight up break parts... sort of like how running shoes will protect your knees, but won't do a whole lot if you jump off a roof and land on your feet in the parking lot.

 

The reason for the 2WD inner TREs is the hole size in the CL, correct? There's got to be a straight TRE out there that'd fit the hole if it proves to be an issue... not like you're not cutting a new adjustment sleeve anyway.

 

Anyway, Tungsten, hurry up and break this thing. :D Can't wait to see how it holds up.

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I imagine the stabilizer does exactly what it's supposed to: it cuts down on vibrations. Without stuff shaking around, the bushings/joints/etc last longer. I'm not sure about 2-3x longer, but whatever. It's not designed or expected to do anything about the conditions that straight up break parts... sort of like how running shoes will protect your knees, but won't do a whole lot if you jump off a roof and land on your feet in the parking lot.

 

The reason for the 2WD inner TREs is the hole size in the CL, correct? There's got to be a straight TRE out there that'd fit the hole if it proves to be an issue... not like you're not cutting a new adjustment sleeve anyway.

 

Anyway, Tungsten, hurry up and break this thing. :D Can't wait to see how it holds up.

It only cuts down on vibration that the driver can feel. All the vibration generated by the tires will still transfer through all the joints. It MIGHT decrease transfer from one side of the truck to the other, but even then, I'd be inclined to think that's minimal.

 

And while you're right, it's not supposed to do anything for the actions that break parts, that is what we're dealing with here. The stock steering system will hold up for years, just fine, under normal circumstances, on a stock truck. We're looking for something stronger, that can take the abuse of lifting/wheeling where the stock system leaves lots to be desired. From what I'm reading here, it appears that a steering stabilizer is being touted as an integral part of the system, and I don't see how it improves anything other than driver feel.

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Okay a steering stabilizer DOES take the SHOCK out of the system, so like Slartibartfast said it like jumping off the building reference or whatever is pretty accurate. It will not protect your vehicle from UP and DOWN vibration or impacts as in your wheels going OVER a big rock. It takes out the aggression of the SIDE impacts as in the parts that the steering controls... When you a rock hits the SIDE of your wheel and tries to shove the wheel sideways really hard it will cushion that force, acting as a what do you know... a DAMPER. To dampen the impact of the blow...

 

You are right it won't do much for the balljoints because most of the force on the balljoints is when the suspension is articulating up and down. Not a lot of wear hits balljoints from side to side motion as thats what the steering is attached to and does. The balljoint is just a pivot point and its a hell of a lot fatter than the rest of the joints.... It will help a little bit for balljoints but what it is mainly for is the STEERING JOINTS. The tie rods/centerlink/idler arm...

 

Just like riding down the road with just springs would be very stiff and harsh and in no time you would be pounding your spine into herniation. Add shocks and voila you won't even bruise your butt.

 

It's for SIDE loads that the shock stabilizes and instead of being a shocking jolt to one side and then having the opposing resistance of the opposite wheel and steering wheel forcing it straight, that's where the wear is created! It cushions the whole system so there are no sudden changes. If one wheel gets hit hard from a side impact its going to try and shove the steering wheel and the opposing wheel with it but they resist that change and create a wear point. As well as any play in the system allowing that wear to exacerbate the situation, letting the problem get even worse. That is why the hoohaa center link works as it stops the twisting force which just adds another "shock" to the system as soon as an impact is taken and it quickly straightens itself and twists and hurts the joints. As well as the better design of the of the 2WD system which would also allow less twisting forces and better leverage...

 

The whole point is to; for one, take the shock out of the system. if you are shocking steering joints with anything like hard side impacts then you need to take that violent force out to regulate the speed and force which are applied to the system/joints. if you have a shock instead of the system just having free play then you have a controlled much slower and much less harsh impact, and the force is absorbed into shock instead of into the sideways controlling joints.

 

Does that make more sense? Just like any other part of the suspension which articulates up and down (which obviously needs shocks), once you start applying hard SIDE loads to the system (as with 4x4ing and the such) you need to dampen that force to increase control and to allow the system time to adjust, and not just be outright and quickly forced into a new position. When you are on a normal road it is not a big deal as there are no real side loads other than steering, so they don't come on most vehicles but as soon as you start adding forces in places where there is no protection you are asking for trouble.

 

Steering stabilizers DO increase the wear life of STEERING components, I don't know about 2-3x as much wear protection but it is significant. You go try taking the shocks out of your truck and ride down the road and then say it is not as harsh feeling on you or your vehicle. Those forces do exist and they have to GO SOMEWHERE. It may help a little in the balljoints as well but not nearly as much as the steering.

 

sorry but i had to chime in I just cant take this one anymore. lol

Edited by Nefarious
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