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  2. Sounds way too fast to be the bottom end. Those numbers are passable. You do not want more than 10% of a difference between the highest and lowest numbers. 150 to 165 is 9.5% so it's almost there. Even so, you won't notice much of a hit to performance or gas mileage. Once the battery is charged retest #4 and you may find it pump to 155 or 160. So far as I can see/hear, your bottom end is healthy but that top end has a nasty lifter tick. A mechanics stethoscope, or a long screw driver, could help you pinpoint which head you need to remove.
  3. Today
  4. I can appreciate that. I also thought long and hard about this, and debated trying to track down an OEM tire carrier as well. My situation is that I don’t have a garage or even driveway and live in a neighborhood in the city. I decided I didn’t want to struggle drill into the body of the car out on the street as cars are passing by and my neighbors are walking the dogs.. Particularly in the middle of the rainy season here in the Pacific NW. This seemed like the best solution for me at this time. Not only that but having the option for bolt-on rotopax mounts for spare fuel was appealing as well and with the OEM mount you’d be talking about custom welding etc which is out for me. You’re mileage may vary. Note as well the price was not over 1k - more like $750. On top of that since this is a relatively universal product I figure I can easily sell it for not a big loss if I decide to go a different direction in the future.
  5. I was able to find a loaner compression tester gauge. I was only able to test 5 out of the 6 cylinders, prior to the battery pooping out on me. I'll need to get it charged. The last cylinder is the dreaded number 6 on the back end of the engine. I'm unsure if the C4 number is accurate or if that is due to the battery losing power on me. C1: 165 C2: 155 C3: 160 C4: 150 C5: 165 Thanks again for the advice and help guys.
  6. I considered one if these for a LONG time before I settled on an OEM tire carrier. I even contacted a couple custom hitch accessory fabricators and their offerings seemed built a bit better than wilco. My problem was I needed a swing-away for my bike rack and while the fabricators could do it, I really didn’t like how all hitch tire carriers have too much wobble that even a cam system won’t stop. I see now wilco offers a “hitch swing” to be added the tire swing. In my opinion it looks like a crap attempt to add a receiver to a product that wasn’t designed to include it, it’s not even centered...My point is when wd21 and r50s have the option for a beyond stout OEM tire carrier, why would you not install one? I’d personally leave the wilco stuff to the subaru crosstreks and the “bought not built” fanboys that don’t have any other options or know any better. I should note this is definitely not a personal attack and I respect your choice of products. I do hope you got a great deal because the $1k+ price tag on that stuff is absurd. Sent from my Pathfinder
  7. I actually apply the parking brake every time I park go figure haha. If that’s the case could this still be a possibility even with the adjuster at proper position? I don’t hear any squealing from either of my brakes so I know it’s not worn past the material. Is it common for the rear drum shoes to warp? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I’ve totally daydreamed about this before. Throwing a bunch of oem parts on mine for a deep overhaul in a shop. Just curious what’s the plug and crush washer above the rms for?
  9. Hope everyone had a Happy and safe Thanksgiving ! I used the time to try and wrangle with my 94 Pathy. After replacing the intake manifold gasket and water pump for what appeared to be coolant leaking into the valley under the manifold I thought I had solved my coolant leak issues. Unfortunately no. Noticed a small but significant leak coming from the two forward most exhaust manifold studs on the passenger side. Both had been buggered by the shop that "fixed" my broken exhaust manifold studs. I guess they over drilled and hit the water jacket. I patched one up with sealant, the other is broken off and is only leaking very minimally even when rad is pressurized. While doing the intake gasket, I replaced the knock sensor and fuel injectors ( at least two were bad when I ohmd them out and the rest were filthy ) with a set of matched (supposedly) aftermarket ones. I did a quick test with a 9V battery prior to installing and all clicked open and shut audibly. I also replaced the fuel injector connector at cyl #1. She started right up today and idled pretty smoothly. Smell of gas was strong. Went to the exhaust and saw white smoke and dripping what appeared to be raw fuel. The smoke did not go away after she warmed up although the dripping eased off. Spent a good bit of time looking around and saw no leaking anywhere on the block or head but did notice the flange between the passenger side exhaust manifold and downpipe was damp. Shut her down and pulled spark plugs 1,3,&5. #3 and 5 plugs were a bit carbon fouled but still firing, #1 was wet, not fouled and also still firing. Dried off #1 plug, let ithe cylinder air out for a bit, put em back in and fired up. Very little smoke initially but then it got worse like before and dripping continued. Truth be told, I was getting the gas smell before without the smoking when warmed up. This plus the ohm testing of the injectors is what prompted me to replace the injectors while I was taking care of the intake manifold gasket leak. No CEL codes popping up So I'm thinking 1) I FUBARd the intake gasket on installation and its leaking coolant into #1 cylinder 2) #1 injector stuck open ( either faulty injector or ECM problem ) 3) really bad rings on #1 cylinder ( I havent compression checked yet) - seems doubtful since smoke doesnt look like burnt oil 4) blown head gasket 5) cracked head on passenger side 6) folks overdrilled exhaust stud holes went way too deep and ?? 7) contaminated gas ( its been sitting for about a year) or bad fuel pressure regulator ? As always, appreciate any thoughts from those more experienced than I, especially what I might be missing and how you would approach this. Thanks
  10. Yesterday
  11. Doing one side should be fine. Make sure everything's properly lubed going in. I haven't done a lifter replacement, but the IIRC the service manual has a whole procedure for making sure they're primed right before you put them in. Do the compression test first. If a valve isn't closing, you'll have no compression on that cylinder. If that's the case, you will need to remove the head to correct whatever is wrong with the valve. (I would have a look down the intake or exhaust port before pulling the head to see if there's some obvious foreign object or chunk of carbon holding the valve open, something I might be able to pull out without removing the head, but this is a very long shot.) If it's not a valve, I'd assume it's a lifter, unless you see something else obviously wrong. You might be able to identify the bad lifter by which rocker arm is loose when its valve should be closed, but I'm not sure this works the same on hydraulic lifter engines as on solid lifter engines. Mr. 510 had a retainer bolt come loose on his somehow which caused a ticking noise and some unusual camshaft wear. I haven't heard of anyone else having that problem, but if you don't find a smoking gun, it's one more thing to check. I've seen Seafoam recommended, but I haven't done a crankcase flush with it myself. Might be worth a shot if it passes the compression test. I can understand being leery of letting it run and warm up while it's making that noise, though.
  12. Yeah they're 15". 8" wide, -19 mm offset.
  13. Wilco Hitchgate spare tire carrier finally arrived. I went with the high clearance model. It isn’t cheap but it’s well designed and built like a tank. The spare tire relocation bracket and Rotopax mount bracket (which mounts between the tire and rear hatch) is still backordered but I’ll post pics when those arrive.
  14. For the 1995's I think this is a common spot for them to rot out. This is the worst of it, but think it's also the extent of it. It didn't look like that until I struck it with a hammer a few times. Haven't found anywhere else yet. Frame replacement isn't an option for me - don't have the money, space, or time. Just want to get this spot patched and then I'm going to sell it. Figure someone will give me $1000-1500 to have a beater for hunting/snowboarding/desert running. The junkyard is only offering $250, so screw that.
  15. Rockclymr, Thanks for the link and the information. It sounds like it is relatively straight forward. The ticking definitely sounds like it is coming from within the passenger side valve cover/head. I will see if I can get my hands on a compression tester to test for compression. I have ordered the valve lifters you linked, as well as the valve cover gasket that slartibartfast mentioned. I'm only going to open up the passenger side to remove/replace the valve lifters. Is there any issue with only doing one side initially? Thanks again.
  16. Thanks for the reply. I think that any sensors would trigger a code or would make the engine stall. When the Crankshaft Position Sensor failed the engine died at random, and gave me an error (P0340 I think) No codes at the scanner. Mine doesn't read the sensors live data. Will try to get one to read and try to get any clue for that. Also I would have a suspicion on the harness. But honestly would not like to even think in this possibilty.
  17. its good to be back in Idaho for the holidays!
  18. No, you don't have to get it to operating temp to do a compression test. if you want to determine if its in the head or cylinder after testing the initial compression and finding which one is causing the noise put a good capful of fresh oil in through the spark plug hole and retest. if its in the cylinder you'll see your compression increase. If it doesn't its in the head ie valve train. But I have to agree with Slartibartfast that you may have a collapsed lifter sitting for long periods can cause them to bleed down and get stuck. You do not have to pull the heads to change them just remove the rocker arms The lifters are fairly inexpensive if they do need replacing and if it was me and having to tear down an engine that far would do anyway. Heres a link just to give you an idea what your looking at for them: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12PCS-Valve-Lifters-Set-For-84-04-Nissan-3-0L-3-3L-VG30E-VG30T-VG33E-12V/222772701753?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item33de49aa39:g:ITAAAOSwrhhaRJJw&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkgCVySCgrNFPU8Iu85TabMAB6F1MgCSiits7gUvGFi3VUxureSmvgEhoBwUXhdVml4bu9Ms52gxnhlFp4VhYFBVuJghsXgNLacIMCKccYiov1oLTbHQaXd%2FEy5BPWaDEGiU%2F2dL2x4HWld%2FQ6SVMXji3ZTMHTWrNU4La8w3C%2F0hMhaiTP4S1iTIqGD2uyaTmBcH9PlLbK4pL7yTt9qKYtxkC3lKHiLAq92FMbDKYvtQyOiGRtpOUtoZMiqyDvcebh6aEJW1Kn%2BY%2BGSTA9o2N2Mmet%2FWk2ZtwkYpBn%2FIX%2FUZbPSNxkS3O%2BLtDwr6g1aEjEQ910tF%2B3ZhS7eoF0dhAxCv6sq6OdZEJ0yOrBDLQ6wsQTt%2BJBXHkC%2FGD0ZtmKnu6aOBS%2B0Dm8MLHl1oDjuVNSF2rvf%2FIIxBI1NqH40i%2FbF%2FTS97p6jebV9jbe8n4MaBVlj34R7%2BSOUJiA2ZucgIoaPtSsXdsZp28bjQWQDNPHsSeuU%2FiiuUgaiGUX%2FoG4h3sHw%2BSv0b%2BQEJuIxMwGIR0I2OXFhE43LAFROR7BZIWwC8gGpf4QLv9CLExlUZFvYwoGSN2P55Xx4xdzZ4sQTUgrm1P9HT%2BKF6BqJ6IZKB9IFzzZ5b5XJrGa1b0ORjmD%2FCPgjmK6Bo%2BJhRj49G8faTKcR3QNr5zQz6wqqJ%2Bhc8b8w6QyaToz%2Fkv9OLx4F7kmw506Oq5c3YQ6lEWVCa1w%2Bc5JgFB6e69yVw4%2BZ5pri%2BBTShMOC5pZR%2FuKA6ohgI%2BR8qUE|cksum%3A22277270175384e960ac32bb4bc2a59a7e0917d7596c|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 .
  19. Again, it's been a hot minute since I have been on here. I have been procrastinating The Pathy has been parked since March this year. Aside from a dead battery, I'm thinking I have a multitude of problems with this and I'm about to do a shotgun blast to get it all fixed. I've noticed a few things happening and I think it's all coming together. This is my Winter driver/ Snow Buggy, so better now than never, even if I'm a little late to the dance.... A. The water pump is slowly leaking. Should have replaced it when I replaced the timing belt and tensioner pulley 5 years ago. likely source of coolant loss and possible reason why the coolant doesn't go back into the overflow tank....This has me wondering.... Was the "no heat" a symptom? B. There is evidence that some coolant is making it into one of the cylinders. It's not bad, and it clears up after it's warmed up, but it's over pressurizing the coolant and causing it to vomit when I take the radiator cap of when it's hot. This has never happened to me in the past. Again, likely source of coolant loss, more than likely an effect of low coolant C. Assuming I resurrect this beast and the heads aren't warped or cracked, I'll take theMECHANIC0329's advice and simply bypass the servo. It's early in the winter anyway Well... Maybe I should just get the servo if it persists.... I'm not really trying to derail my own topic, I just feel that all of these issues could be related to the issue of having intermittent heat. Either way, the Engine has some significant issues that have to be dealt with before I can safely use it as my Snow Buggy.
  20. Rockyclymr, I have a fear of running it too long as I'm unsure what this is. If I do a compression test do I need to get it up to normal operating temps for accurate numbers? Slartibartfast, I've followed a few of your posts, and appreciate the info you've given the forum. If I open up the heads, would I just be trying to loosen up all the valves to see if any are stuck? If any are stuck, would I not need to pull the heads to have them rebuilt? Also is there an oil flush treatment you recommend before opening everything up?
  21. Not sure why the end pic didn’t work this app is so buggy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Rebuilt and powdercoated all the drum brake hardware, a lot of prep work, it’s pretty I just hope it all works when I put the handbrake haha Took me awhile to remember how it all went back together, need to order the longer parking brake cable for the other side still, the old one cracked open in a couple spots and siezed the cable up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Failing as it warms up makes me suspect a sensor or other electronic component flaking out. Position sensor, maybe? I'd say coil pack but I'd expect that to code. If you have a scanner that can read pending codes, see if it's got any of those. I would also check the fuel trims with the scanner to see if anything's obviously weird there that could indicate an air or fuel issue.
  24. Wow, that's not a place where you want frame rot. I would bet what you can see is only the tip of the iceberg and what's left is thin and pitted. I'd be looking for another frame, but that's easy for me to say from here in Oz where we don't experience that sort of frame corrosion. I hope you manage to save it!
  25. Those Pro Comp Crawlers, are those the stock size? Or has anyone seen/heard of any 17" wheels being used?
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