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  2. Hi. I had my AT rebuilt a few months ago before Covid-19 visited the world. My rig worked fine until my engine rpm gauge no longer worked. The transmission also started shifting incorrectly. I checked my manual and advised to check the engine revolution sensor. There is no resistance on both terminals. Made additional test and found to have disconnected terminals. Is there somebody who have tried converting a sensor used by the new models to the old one like mine or did someone repaired their damaged sensor? I have a 1993 TD27 Turbo Diesel Terrano/Pathfinder. Tried looking for parts online but was not successful. I saw some online store from Russia and UK but I am not sure if they are legit. Thanks for the help. I have attached a copy of the sensor and the part# below:



  3. Today
  4. I'd suggest researching adding loctite to the power valve screws. Other than that, nothing really jumps to mind other than the usual used vehicle stuff like changing fluids. When researching your new ride, you may find it useful to add site:nissanlathfinders.net/forum to the end of your Google searches to just get results from this site.
  5. Sounds like it'll be a nice truck!
  6. Hi all, I have recently bought a 2002 SE with 139,000 miles on it. Very clean inside and out with not a spec of rust on the body or the frame. Minus 2 or 3 small scratches and door dings, it is about as clean as it gets for 18 years old. Looking to get into weekend overlanding (mostly FS roads) with hopes of doing the WABDR in the next summer. Debating keeping stock running gear and throwing 31x10.50s on it with beadlocks. Any help on what to watch out for being 139,000 miles assuming it hasn't meen maintained (maybe it has, I am not sure). Any problem areas to focus on? Any weaknesses in the near future? Thanks so much for your time!
  7. I finally got around to pulling my plugs and performing a compression test. Here they are as seen from the front of the vehicle: BACK 5: 158 PSI 6: 165 PSI 3: 115 PSI 4: 110 PSI 1: 152 PSI 2: 149 PSI FRONT The FSM states 168 PSI as the standard, 121 PSI for minimum, and a 15 PSI maximum differential between cylinders. 1, 2, 5, and 6 are acceptable enough, but that doesn't mean anything (as far as I know) since 3, and 4 both have such poor compression and a high differential between their adjacent cylinders, as well as being on opposite sides of the engine. My next step is to sequentially replace the spark plugs and crank the engine to see if I get bubbles in the coolant. Any suggestions or pointers as to what the issue may be? I know it's a coolant leak somewhere, but I'm working on diagnosing what the exact cause is. EDIT: When testing for bubbles in the coolant, I only found bubbles when cranking cylinder 6. I'm not sure what this means, as this was the cylinder with the highest tested compression.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Yep, there is worse, but there is also better, like the VG33 I currently have and the VQ40. I turn wrenches as my profession. Been stuck as an auto mechanic professionally for the last 20 years. I probably should renew my ASE certs since I let them lapse a while back. After 10-12 hours a day working on other people's cars, don't have much interest in working on mine. Yes, manufacturers come up with some "creative" oil filter locations, and the VG30 was definitely not the worst, but a little critical thinking would have determined that the filter tucked between the exhaust manifold and starter with the inner fender and frame in the way, just might not have been a great place for a high maintenance component. Least they could have done is put an access port in the inner fender to access the filter and make cleaning the spilled oil off the starter easier. No worries though, GM is great at putting filters in bad locations.
  10. Yup, it's definitely a bunch of crap and grease and stuff. WD40 is slowly working and I've also got some liquid wrench that I'll try. There's no way I would've been able to clean them out either. It's pretty grungy
  11. If you're going to drive the truck in the winter, do yourself a favor and get it oil sprayed. It seems like that is a way less common thing in the US than Canada, I get all my cars done every year that see winter. The pathy gets parked in the garage for the season, though.
  12. People on here complaining about the oil filter location (for the most part) have not worked on a wide variety of cars haha. There is much, much worse.
  13. Most of the time I've found they weren't stuck, but there is a lot of crap in the plug wells preventing the socket from seating properly. Actually I'd say 100% of the time that's what it is. I've never had a seized plug in a VG.
  14. Thanks for the notes everyone. I've got an absolute @!*%load of work to do on my Toyota as well so I'm hoping to at least try to address this by the fall. I don't have a welder and haven't welded anything since 2006 but I like that idea of just cutting it all out and using duct tape LOL or at least stripping the interior myself to save the dude some labor. He wasn't comfortable just welding in a flat piece of metal and was more keen on finding a replacement piece, I don't blame him since he's gotta sign off on the safety aspect of the work. But I obviously don't care. The storage box idea is interesting too. Cheers!
  15. I currently own a 2001 Pathy with 225k on it. It’s tired but still works. The wife is looking for an SUV that can pile the miles, off road capability isn’t super important and neither is MPG. She’s just tired of her 2007, things not working as they should due to age and so on. Low maintenance is important and so isn’t reliability/size. Open to any hidden gems that aren’t stupid expensive and or under the radar SUVs. She’s thinking pilot but I’m hoping for other ideas too. We drive a ton 20-30k a year and her outback is at the point where it’s nickel and diming to death.
  16. WD40's better than nothing. If they loosened a little, try tightening them again, see if working them back and forth (with plenty of WD) will loosen them up. Also blow out around them if you can, the plug wells like to fill up with crap.
  17. Ah! That's what you guys are talking about. I completely forgot that the home page existed.
  18. Getting some 3-wheel action in the super-stock Qx4!
  19. It's been quite insane, 'cuz, ya know, every1 needz der internetz!!! Only if you never visit the NPORA Home Page
  20. Learn something new every day I guess! Is there a secret handshake I don't know about too?
  21. Ok cool i was afraid it was dead . Lol anywaays i got a custom npora vinyl visor made up to represent . Sent from my SM-A205U using Tapatalk
  22. Might sound strange but.. I've picked up some 265/65r17 tires and the 2+ inch lift already makes them look a bit small I feel. So was aiming for a happy medium lift. I don't offroad too hard, washed out British Columbia logging roads are as bad as it gets.
  23. If you’re gonna run the spacers in front why cut the Lr coils down by an inch and a half? 2 inch front spacers and nrc9447 coils is a great combo
  24. I was getting ready for a compression test so I can diagnose some issues with my VG30E when I came across an issue with the spark plugs. Spark plugs 1, 3, and 5 (passenger side) were a breeze to remove (though it appears that #5 wasn't in all the way?). I hit a wall with spark plugs 2, 4, and 6. They refuse to come out, so I'm thinking either the previous owner stripped them because they're a PITA to access, or they're just seized because of my coolant burning issue that I already know I have. Any suggestions for removal? I've currently got WD40 (yes I know, but it's all I had) sitting on the threads as good as I can do considering the accessibility issues. I'll be trying again soon, but if that still doesn't work, what else can I do? They've loosened a bit, but are now stuck.
  25. PM sent. For sure I'll try and get the '87 out there if I do scan it, not much point otherwise. The only difference I can think of off the top of my head is that some of the '87 codes are different, just to be that way. 42 is throttle sensor circuit, 43 is injector circuit, 44 is no malfunction indicated, and there's no injector leak, ECU, EGR, or EGR temp sensor code. Other than that, same as '89.
  26. So im heading out to cleghorn trail? I’m going to be headed down there on Sunday, hit me up on the time I still don’t have a specific time as to when ima go but I wanna be there before 12pm, anyone’s welcome:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. My '95 was pretty rotten back there. We found a solid donor at the wreckers and they cut a section of floor out of it for us. We didn't strip the interior before welding it up. I'm not even sure we took the seats out. If the rust isn't too extensive, you could do the job pretty easily with flat sheet metal, but don't be surprised if the hole is bigger than you think once you start chipping away at it. My '95 didn't look too bad until I tried to clean it up. I had the same plan as Mr. Reverse for my '93, then discovered that it wasn't actually rotten there, so I left it alone.
  28. Your truck friend, lots of ways to go. Go on and do what works for you. There are several "right" ways to do it. I have in the back of my 93 a pair of 4" lift coils for the front of a mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokee with a coil cut off. Working fine for me. Before that was a pair of 85 F150 front coils with the pigtails cut off. Mostly worked and was nice when my truck was hauling heavy loads. There was also some time with WD21 lift coils and spacers somewhere in there. If I ever do my solid front axle swap I want to do, might change again, but think the current rear springs are what I am going to stay with. My 04 Sorento is going to remain stock, so the air helper springs was the best option for me. As I tell people that ask me for advice on tires and a few other things with their cars, I tell them to look honestly at what they do and need then choose what works for them.
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