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  2. Letter to dealer.... I think the letter, my earlier documentation that I sent them as this unfolded, and my keeping cool and de-escalating any tension during conversations with the dealer, and even paying him respect if not compliments ("you've been in business 15 yrs, I'm sure you've seen and done it all. This isn't something new for you. I'm sure you know the drill and exactly how to handle it.") helped me get what I wanted, which was a return and full refund. Cheers! -Phil -------------------------------- My Name My Address City, State Zip Month 20th, 2019 Mr. XXX YYY General Manager and Registered Agent Car Dealership Name, Inc 123 Main St. Anytown, USA ZIP --- HAND DELIVERED --- --- with copies sent via email to dealerEmail@xxx.com --- Dear Mr. XXX YYY: On the evening of Tuesday, Month 14th, 20nn at approximately 6:30 pm, more or less, I attempted to purchase a Color YYYY Nissan Pathfinder Vin #nnnnn at a price of $x,yyy.zz from your dealership, Car Dealer, Inc, located on main St in Anytown, USA. Peter Piper handled the paperwork for the transaction, and I very much enjoyed speaking with Mr. Piper. Unfortunately, there are several significant undisclosed defects with the vehicle and I relied on multiple misrepresentations made about this vehicle, some of which were immediately revealed when I started the vehicle the next morning after having driven fewer than 5 miles on local streets from your dealership to my home at 456 Elm St, USA. For the reasons elaborated here and others, I am asking that you please accept this tender offer for your dealership to take possession of the vehicle and refund all moneys paid, and I will work with you to see that we easily and smoothly unwind this contemplated transaction. If you would kindly accept this offer by the end of the day on Tuesday, Month 21st, I will consider the matter closed, and I will not seek further compensation or restitution regarding this matter. 1) The problem became apparent before I drove the vehicle not even 5 miles after leaving your dealership that evening. First and foremost, after driving the vehicle fewer than 5 miles from your dealership to my home, when I started the vehicle in the morning, the morning of Wednesday Month 15th 20nn – fewer than 24 hours later, it billowed a large amount of thick white smoke that filled the air behind the vehicle and took approximately 5 minutes before it lessened significantly. These problems with white smoke have not abated and continue to reoccur, despite my contacting the dealership and attempting the remedy I was told to follow, which was to drive the vehicle “hard” for at least 100 miles, and the smoking would clear up. 2) I promptly contacted your dealership to address the problem, and diligently followed the advice and instructions your dealership provided. Although I voiced concern about this approach, stating that I would rather bring in the vehicle for a mechanic to look at it to ensure that nothing was wrong and to ensure that driving it would not exacerbate the problem or cause additional damage, I was instructed by your dealership not to bring the vehicle in, but instead to drive the vehicle at least 100 miles. I was assured that this would cure the problem, and the issue would be gone. I reluctantly followed this advice under protest and drove the vehicle on the highway until it was time to refuel. After refueling with premium grade gas, the vehicle continued to smoke, but this time it also indicated an error by illuminating the “service engine soon” light, and I quickly discovered that it had an error code of P0021, which is listed as a problem reading a sensor related to the variable valve timing. Later, the vehicle showed an error code of P0442 which is listed as an error code related the fuel system’s evaporative canister, that can have multiple causes. 3) I took measures and exercised due care to prevent additional damage from occurring to the vehicle. I have recorded and cleared the error codes, and carefully monitored the vehicle, including its operating temperature via both the built-in temperature gauge, and a far more accurate temperature reading using an appliance connected to the vehicle’s diagnostic port. At one point, when the temperature started to rise rapidly, I even pulled over to the side of the road, ran the heat at high set to 90 F to allow the engine to cool down, and then drove directly to the nearest auto parts store, where I purchased compatible antifreeze, and after the engine cooled down, I carefully topped of the engine coolant, “burping” air out of the two radiator hoses, and taking other precautions to avoid air pockets. While these measures succeeded in preventing the vehicle from overheating, and the addition of engine coolant allowed the vehicle to return to its normal operating temperature, these symptoms are evidence that despite a good faith effort to try the remedy as directed by your dealership, after driving more than 100 miles, the problems persist, and the problems are of such a nature that they substantially impair the value of the vehicle for the purpose it was purchased, which is to drive it for purposes of transportation. 4) Despite these good faith efforts and attempted remedies, the vehicle continues to exhibit symptoms of these undisclosed prior defects. Moreover, the evidence indicates to me and others that this vehicle had and continues to display signs of undisclosed defects which we believe are most likely caused by coolant fluid somehow leaking into the engine’s combustion chamber causing engine coolant to appear in the exhaust as white smoke. The exhaust seems moist and even has the smell of engine coolant. These problems tend to appear in the exhaust under certain circumstances, such as after a startup when the vehicle has been sitting for a while. These engine trouble codes and reoccurring white smoke in the exhaust and other symptoms and issues are contrary to the multiple representations made in the on-line advertisement for this vehicle as shown at xyz.com and other online sites, and are contrary to the several verbal representations made to me, on which I relied, about the condition of this vehicle and the services that had been performed. Moreover, I believe that there is ample evidence to show that this defect existed prior to our contemplated transaction and that these issues were known by your establishment, yet they were not disclosed to me, and in fact were misrepresented while I was considering purchasing the vehicle. 5) An AS-IS disclosure does not cover misrepresentation regarding undisclosed defects. While the vehicle’s sales documents include an “AS-IS” disclosure, given that you run a busy and successful vehicle dealership, I am certain that you must be aware that such disclosures do not cover misrepresentation. 6) Under Federal and MY STATE law, certain implied warranties are applicable, as they cannot be waived when a 3rd party service contract is issued by the dealership. Furthermore, under Federal and state law, certain implied warranties cannot be successfully waived, even if waivers are stated in writing, when within 90 days a dealership sells a service contract, even a third-party service contract, such as the one included in the paperwork for this vehicle. 7) There are additional grievances, and curing them all could possibly exceed the vehicle’s asking price of $n,nnn. These are only some of the grievances that I have, are not an inclusive enumeration of every basis for complaint or all issues regarding the misrepresentations, undisclosed defects and other problems related to this vehicle and the contemplated sale to me. Rather than continue to elaborate now, I would rather like to emphasize that for almost a full week, I have worked in good faith to try the remedies suggested by your dealership, and seeing that they have failed, and seeing strong evidence leading me to believe that this was a pre-existing and known defect that was present, but hidden and not disclosed to me as part of the contemplated sale, at this point I would ask that you please remedy the situation by having your dealership take possession of the vehicle, and provide a full refund of all moneys that I paid. I firmly believe that this would be the easiest, most effective and least costly solution for BOTH of us, and so I ask that you please give this suggestion serious and careful consideration, and ultimately agree. I look forward to your reply and a satisfactory resolution to my problem. I will wait until at least the morning of Wednesday month 22nd, before asking any third-party to contact you regarding this matter. Please contact me via email, fax or telephone using the following information so that we may resolve this matter expeditiously. Email: MyEmail@xyz.com Cell: nnn-nnn-nnnn Fax: yyy-yyy-yyyy Sincerely, (My Signature) MY NAME Re: YYYY Nissan Pathfinder Vin #NNNNNNN
  3. 62 or is it 26?? Can't remember, Lol
  4. Update... Drove it some more on the highway... it started to get too hot, and headed towards over-heating (temp way too high... temp gauge about 3/4 towards "H") I pulled over, and let it cool down by idling on the side of the road with the heater on full at 90 F. Once it cooled down, I drove straight to the nearest auto parts store, used a rag to carefully open the radiator, making sure to aim the lid away from my face so I didn't get burned (plus, my ultragauge told me the temp had come down to 220 F, which while hot, I know isn't hot enough to make the engine coolant boil... so I know I wouldn't have steam coming out). Then I let it cool down, topped off the coolant, burped both radiator hoses to get rid of air, etc. At that point, it ran better temp wise, but the smoking increased. I wrote a four page letter to the dealer about the issue... It was carefully framed to give him a day to take the pathy back and refund my money, and was laying out all of the legal claim's I'd need to try to win a case if we ended up in front of a judge. The dealer called me up, telling me -- not realistically -- that he was terrified by my fancy letter. I played it cool, and nicely telling him there was no need to be sarcastic. He continued, so I told him, 'look, you've been in business 15 yrs... I'm sure you've seen it all, and know the drill. This isn't new to you, and I'm sure you know the drill. I'm sure you've been through this many times before." He agreed to take it back and refund my payment... and he actually did! I'm quite happy. Yeah... I'm out $500 for my attorney's fee, but the attorney helped verify the things I had researched on my own, and also gave me other info that helped shape my letter. I'm glad I sent my own letter first, because the attorney's letter probably would have put the dealer too much on the defensive. My letter laid the foundation in case I had to sue, but all that I asked for was my money back in exchange for the truck, and nothing more. I'll do a separate post with the key points from the letter, just in case anyone else finds themself in a similar situation with a dealer. There's no guarantee that you'll be successful, and who knows how it would have gone if we ended up in court, but my goal was really just to give back the vehicle and get my money back, since the cost to cure the problem was unknown, but could have possibly run into thousands of dollars. Thanks everyone for the help and info. I'm gonna miss that Pathy... I really liked it! -Phil
  5. I really like the design of that! It looks like it would be very robust.
  6. Haha. I get comments on mine all the time. I tell my brother that I endured the “you look like a dirtbag” phase and am now in the “it’s cool and hipster because it’s old phase”.
  7. I have a homemade plug and play harness for my nissan terrano regulus headlights. I did not make this harness myself, but I can give you pictures so you have an idea. It was made using Nissan relays, the HID headlights get their power from the battery but power is triggered by the 9004 sockets (qx4 used 9004 sockets from 97-99... 99.5-00 use a different plug) Everything is powered except for the auto leveling, I do not have the plugs or switch for leveling but i would love it!! I want to upload a picture of the harness but I do not see an option to upload photos? Is this outsourced photo hosting only now?
  8. I bought a kit like this off eBay the other month for $85, and they've worked great. Used them on long OME HDs for an FJ80 project, and just the other day on R50 OME MDs. I've used those rental ones on OME HDs in the past, but it's a pain. These were fairly effortless.
  9. They are yellow LED's Sjackson2 Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  10. Looks like your in Tennessee? Are you talking about Pull-A-Part in Knoxville? I live there. At Pull-A-Part every weekend and anyday during the week if im off. Lol obsessed much? Lol Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  11. Nice pics brother. Love the Pathy, always liked that color and the beautiful sky isn't bad either Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  12. there are some pictures of black92se he is the one who had the pathy with coilovers, his rig is long gone, and it did use the TM 4" kit for more room aswell as a BL I believe. not worth it IMHO.
  13. Ended up going with spacers and longer coils. Maybe down the road ill switch it up. Got it back on the ground, but still lots to do: lower trailing arms, extend driveshaft, panhard bracket, brake line and a bunch of small things here and there. Rear bumpers is going soon after, going to make a rear bumper to add the carrier to.
  14. Sounds like the IAC valve is wide open if your throttle is closed.
  15. Ended up going with spacers and longer coils. Maybe down the road ill switch it up. Got it back on the ground, but still lots to do: lower trailing arms, extend driveshaft, panhard bracket, brake line and a bunch of small things here and there. Rear bumpers is going soon after, going to make a rear bumper to add the carrier to.
  16. Yep, those are exactly like what I have.
  17. A trick you can do is put the socket on a breaker bar and wedge it so when you bump the ignition it will loosen the crank bolt. Motor turns clockwise. So wedge the breaker bar to the right side of the engine bay on the frame or a good solid place when looking from the front. Of course if you have a impact thats the best way to remove it. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  18. I think it was like these. But that was the last time I tried to use them 10 years ago. And they are only maybe at my parents house 200 miles away. I actually did take the struts to a NTB that agreed to do it under the table for a $50 tip. The shop manager was really condescending when I tried to show him how the FSM said they should go together. When I got home I discovered they didn't seat the bearing flat, and the chevron was pointing in the wrong direction. This was probably a little dicky of me but I was so mad that I would have never known about the sloppy work if I had taken the whole job to them, that I wrote corporate. I had to leave town, but my dad took them to an independent car shop we had a relationship with who hooked me up free of charge. I later found out the NTB shop manager got fired. I don't know if it was only that, or one of a string of things. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  19. Lefty loosey righty tighty Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
  20. Hey guys, I've owned 4 pathfinder all hard body and seems like the emergency break going to the drums dont work. Anyone have an easy fix or a solution to this? I've tried to tighten the cables but doesnt work.
  21. 41 on Friday! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  22. Hey bud. Welcome back to the states! The key that I learned by trial and error years ago when I used to show my rides was to paint the pieces like your painting a car. Continuous movement from side to side, starting before and spraying past the piece your painting. Stay about 10-12" from the piece. Never just point the spray can at the piece and spray. That causes too much paint to lay in one spot and causes the over spray a lot of people get. I just take my time and spray 2-4 light coats, allowing 30 minutes to 1 hr between coats to avoid running and to ensure a consistent level of paint. I have been pretty lucky with this method. Before you spray the pieces though, sand the piece with some high grit paper like 500+ grit to give the paint some grip. Clean the piece well before painting it. Also, get the better spray paint. I typically use rustoleum paint/primer that bonds to plastic. Hope this helps. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  23. the ones that worked for you Bax03SE, did they look like this style? with my impact if these guys held up for yours then they’ll hold up for mine and i won’t kill myself with a ratchet this time like i did on the rear springs. and yeah lmao no i’m definitely dealing with this myself although i might pay a shop to deal with the lug nut spinning issue i’m having though. just spins but boy can i rip on it with a clamped vice grip and that won’t come off. the rest are fine that’s just annoying and will need a new stud probably. and i know how much this is gonna suck just because of having to remove the strut bolts when i did the cvs and getting them back in is not happening unless i own one of these after the new struts and springs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. OK so quick question, loosen the bolt clockwise or counter clockwise? It's on there pretty good but I have it static, just a small bit of play. I put pb liberally on there just to be sure. I'm ready to go at it but just want to know which direction. Counter as usual?
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