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  3. Interesting note about the CV axle. My 97's ABS tone rings are pressed onto the back side of the hubs. In order to get to them, you have to pull the hub assembly. I have never seen an ABS tone ring on an R50 CV axle before. enchoian- Did you have any service to the front brakes or hubs when you replaced the CV axles?
  4. Something else to look at is the outer CV and ensure that it has a tone ring on it. There was a time when Pathfinders didn't have ABS, then it became an option, finally became standard equipment. The non ABS and the ones with ABS, used the same axles with one difference, the ABS ones had a tone ring added. Sometimes the ring is not there and not noticed until the light turns on. Unbolting the knuckle from the strut to change the CV axles can affect the alignment, if in the past camber adjustment bolts were installed in order to align an old car, it will throw the alignment off when replacing the halfshaft. Also, 9 out of 10 cars can benefit from an alignment when new, and after being driven for 50k miles, can definitely be off. Finally, the guy at the counter who you as the customer talks to rarely knows how the various systems in each car works or even knows what the parts are. They are trained to run the computer and write up the work order for the monkey that actually turns the wrenches. I am that wrench monkey that everyone expects to know everything about your car. I am human and sometimes things happen and other things get missed. I spend a lot of time looking up information on the particular car and it's system that I am currently working on because they are all different in the details, and constantly changing. At a minimum, there are 3 sides to every problem, and to be fair, need to get info from all. Sorry for the rant, it is just one of my hot buttons because I hear it all the time, "my car didn't have that problem before you worked on it", and usually I am not allowed to ask why did you have me look into that issue if there was nothing wrong. Almost as bad is the ones that go online and diagnose a problem and then have me do the fix that they found. They get really angry when the fix didn't fix their issue, so I must have done it wrong. It has been such a common problem that at my shop the customers are given 3 options. Pay for the work you say it needs and NO guarantee the the problem is fixed, pay for a diagnosis and if a repair is then done after our diagnosis for the problem, you get a guarantee, and the third, you are free to take it somewhere else.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Definitely a terrible design, Although my last WD I had for 11 years without any hassles. I ran 0 offset rims with 31x10.5R15s, anything bigger is too much for the front end and you're asking for failure.
  7. WOW ....didn't think that far ...I was told the climate control was different and that you needed to swap the whole dash and shift console but was not sure on anything else . Iam starting to rethink this plan , LOL ...when I started looking at performance upgrades to my 3.3 it was getting expensive.
  8. Didn’t like seeing the corrosion on that metal ring inside the fan, bead blasted it, polished up to 3000 grit and then gold plated it, also I powder coated the fan clutch in a metallic blue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Didn’t like seeing the corrosion on that metal ring inside the fan, bead blasted it, polished up to 3000 grit and then gold plated it, also I powder coated the fan clutch in a metallic blue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. To determine if the lurching happens due to a malfunction in the braking system or drivetrain (transmission, driveshaft, etc), shift to neutral and try braking to a stop. As you slow to a stop, keep an eye on the RPM. Listen and feel for any abnormalities in the engine/drivetrain. The lurching could be a transmission issue or another issue that affects the engine idle RPM. Do you have a glowing CHECK ENGINE light?
  11. The ABS wheel sensors are installed in the spindle/knuckle and the wire harness is clipped to the strut before it gets to the wiring connector mounted on the inner wheel well. If the hub assembly is allowed to drop too far when working on the front suspension, the connector could become unplugged from the wheel well, or the wire itself could become damaged or stretched. The sensor itself could also be damaged, or there is excessive metallic debris around the ABS tone ring mounted to the back of the hub, preventing it from obtaining accurate readings. The only way to thoroughly check is to remove the wheels and inspect the cable and the connector where it attaches to the wheel well.
  12. The transmission would be the easy part. If it’s 2wd to 2wd you’re good and 4wd to 4wd you’re good. Just swap the main bell housing... you don’t even need to put a new trans in there unless you want to. But as far as electronics go, I have a feeling that’s gonna be a can of worms judging by my experiences. Power window switches change from year to year so I can’t imagine what kind of hidden surprises exist with climate control, seats, air bags etc.
  13. Yeah, some of them get fidgety at the lower settings. My original didn’t, my replacement does
  14. All too familiar a condition I saw in my Pathfinder. There was a time I was running some 10" wide wheels and I was doing that all the time. All I had to do was drop into 4lo and hit the throttle on a good traction surface and it would bend all 4 tierods, the idler arm and destroy the ball joints in the center link. I wound up running Hells Revenge in Moab in 2wd because I wrecked the steering so bad after a couple days of trail running and the climb up a fin at the beginning of the trail mangled things. Had to use an 8 foot T-post to bend the idler arm down enough that I could turn with just a little rubbing on the frame. Terrible design in the steering linkage.
  15. Hey can someone explain how the ABS sensors become disconnected? I'm having the exact same situation as the original poster. Everything looks good when I look behind the wheels.
  16. Hey cheers I was wondering if it might be due to the torsion still up to high, but Yea I'm currently looking for a left hand steering box an also going to do the 2wd mod out a 88 navara complimented by a steering dampener, hopefully that will sort it, and yeap broken heaps of tie rods luckily I have a boot load
  17. I think your truck looks great man. Not too much rake at all IMO, but it’s all up to what you prefer. If it were me I’d just add some cargo to the back lol I was actually having the opposite issue with the 9447s, they were a tiny bit too soft and my cargo heavy so I was getting a negative rake and had to bump up to the 9449s
  18. I’m tuned to this thread in hoping you find your answer because I’ll find myself in the same predicament soon using this exact setup. From my forums research, looks like the smallest spacer on the market for the front is 1”. This can lead to cv axles being damaged when you top out, but a lot of members seem to be adding the front 1” spacer anyway to level out the rake with the 9447 rear springs. I’ve read some members using a 1/2” spacer up front to level out the rake while maintaining a safer height for cv axels versus the 1” spacer, but I can’t seem to find who sells 1/2” spacers, so they might be custom made. I’ve also read some members even cut a coil on the 9447 to level it out, but that’s a different story.
  19. And Mr_Reverse you are the winner!!!!! That damn brightness control musta been bumped by my knee somehow[emoji2357] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Took a drive up Guanella Pass. Mt. Bierstadt and The Sawtooth are in the background.
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