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*Updated: 01/17/2022 6:54PM PST

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  3. Just an update, I've been using the bolts directly inside the bushing inner diameter and it's been working pretty well for about 7 months now, no bushing sleeve present. I am curious about the sleeve and if anyone has found one yet, but just to reinsure everyone, you don't need one to make it work.
  4. Hey team, I have a 99 Infiniti QX4, 4x4 w/ electronic transfer case. So for about two months I've had an intermittent "hissing" sound come from the under the dash, near the brake pedal during cold starts and occasionally while driving. The sound goes away as soon as the brake pedal is pressed lightly. The sound sometimes is heard while driving (but much less often than on the cold start), and will also go away when the brake pedal is pressed lightly. After reading a few forum threads, it sounds like there is a potential vacuum leak in the Brake Booster and/or valve nearby the brake booster, or that the booster is starting to fail. All the forums I came across did not have conclusive threads as to what fixed the issue so here I am asking you all what I should check first and if you all have any recommendations. Brake function has not changed since I began hearing this sound, the brake pedal seems to work the same as it did before with no loss of braking power or pedal play changes. Please let me know what you think! All information is appreciated and accepted. Thanks team!
  5. I have one! The Driver's side. I actually took photos of it and I planned to list it on ebay. The thing is really nice, and soft. No UV or weathering damage. I'm going to guess that this Pathfinder was a garage queen or parked in a car port for years. Anyhow I should have grabbed both sides. After market glass, super clean rubber, and plastic spacer included. I got a shipping quote today, and it's $21.50 to ship. So I figure $40 shipped is a great price for it. contact, and paypal is: aaronhorrocks@hotmail.com
  6. Are you guys making these still? Also have you thought about doing 3" engine spacers and then dropping the transfercase/tranny 1" with spacers?
  7. I’ve been hanging around r50 forums and groups since I got mine in 2019. Haven’t really seen much chatter about reliability issues with the atx14a transfer case. Like any part, there’s gonna be somebody with a failure here and there but the atx14a isn’t even going to be in the top 15 issues for this platform. I have 237k miles in the clock and mine has held up to the abuse just fine. Just change the fluid at the intervals the manual specifies and if you submerged it in water or mud, just clean underneath really well so wire harnesses stay clean. In other words, don’t let the transfer case hold you back unless it acts up on a test drive
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  9. Hey guys! I’m trying to decide between the auto 4x4 and the manual one. I feel like the auto switch deal is just more stuff that will fail. I have found a 2002 LE with the auto and just want to make sure they aren’t a lot more trouble or if they are better. I’ve read there are gear differences between the two but can’t find much about one being better or more reliable than the other. Thank you guys for any help!
  10. I have a mess here at home with contractors running around so the garage is for now sort of a storage room and my Pathy is sitting outside. I have yet to replace the regulator but I'll surely document the process and I'll post pictures of the now gone brushes. Most likely next week I'll tackle this.
  11. Hey, I recently experienced exactly the same symptoms, but probably due to a whole different cause. Leaving this here jic someone encounters it too. I was aware that my Terrano had a very very slow coolant leak somewhere, as the reservoir emptied in 3 months of filling it up. Until yesterday, I noticed the front belt rollers were wet and saw the liquid was dripping from the fan shaft/water pump. It made the alternator belt slip, when starting the car, the battery and handbrake light were illuminated together. After couple minutes the lights went off - coolant had evaporated due to friction and all was okay.
  12. Covid tax seems to have hit Pathfinder SE + LE's in my area but not QX4's, unless the owner literally lists them as Pathfinder LE's... which I've seen a few times. Vancouver, BC.
  13. This is brilliant! I’ll definitely be trying this the first chance I get. Thanks!
  14. That fender should straighten out alright if you're careful about it. Looks like it's the usual case of the bumper folding back and bending the core and fender. When this happened on my '95 (similar deal, locked it up in slush, though luckily all I hit was a ditch), I took the bumper and fender off and straightened everything off the truck, then had a hell of a time lining the bumper back up. When my '93 took a similar hit from a hoof rat, I didn't want to go through that again, so I pulled the bumper straight-ish with a strap and just sorta shoved the core and fender back to where they were supposed to be. It actually worked pretty well.
  15. Thank you for the heads up. I expect many swear words in my future! And maybe, some tears.
  16. I've never had a strut suspension to bits, and I've seen a few threads about strut top issues, but I'm not sure I'd fire the parts cannon just yet. Having it still make the noise when it's on jackstands makes me think it's not load-related, which isn't what I'd expect for either a strut top or a TRE. I'm also noticing you said both tie rods seemed like they were making the noise. Maybe both outer TREs failed prematurely, at the same time, or the noise is transferring really well from one side to the other, but noise on both sides of the rack has me wondering about the rack. I'd pop the outer TREs out of the knuckles and repeat your jackstand steering test. If it doesn't make the noise, steer the knuckles by hand to check the strut tops, and if those seem fine, check it again with one tie rod, then the other. If on the other hand the steering still makes the noise when it's not moving the knuckles, that suggests an issue with the rack, steering shaft U joints or rag, steering transfer box whatsit, or possibly the column. I would double-check the rack bushings, too, though again that seems like a long shot given how little load they're under with the truck in the air. If the feel-stuff-while-it-makes-the-noise test fails, disconnect things one by one until you find the problem. Obviously be mindful of the clockspring while doing this. I think the shafts are keyed so you can't reinstall them cockeyed, but I would still put a paint pen mark on them before pulling them apart just to be safe.
  17. Hey. I’m also in Portland and would be down to do something.
  18. Nice! I have the switch on my passenger side that doesn’t work only the driver side switch will roll it down I wonder if replacing the regulator will also fix it as it’s slow as well. How did the install go? Is it up and running ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. What I'm working with: 2002 4x4 Lifted 1 year ago Reused struts and strut hats 1 yo OEM strut bearings 1 yo AC coils 1 yo Camber adjust bolts 1 yo Inner tie rods 1 yo outer tie rods 1 yo steering rack bushings 1 yo ball joints Wheeled all summer on those fresh components and everything was great. My last wheeling sesh was August. Early 2021, I developed a popping/crunching sensation in the steering. I assumed it was the ball joint so I replaced both ball joints. The issue remained unchanged. For troubleshooting, I set the front end on jack stands and prompted the noise by having somebody turn the steering wheel. Best judgements of sound and feel by hand led me to the tie rods. Struts didn't have much of a output on feel or sound, nor did cv axles or ball joints. This led me to do the following: After replacing ball joints (which were actually still good btw) I replaced the following this month: CV axles Wheel bearings (inner and outer) and both sets of races Inner tie rods Outer tie rods seemed really solid, almost like new and the grease boot didn't see compromised so i reused them. I took it to the shop for an alignment. The same guy that aligned it last summer aligned it again and said the alignment procedure was smooth and typical. After getting it from the shop, Everything feels straight and aligned but the popping/crunching is still there. I can create this by low speed tight turns such as cutting the wheel to pull into a parking spot or follow a drive thru path. It seems that the low speed + hand over hand turning of the steering wheel causes this. This does not occur if you drive straight or if say you cut the wheel for a slow turn and hold it steady at an angle. It's the action of turning the steering wheel that causes it. What's weird is this occurred months after I last wheeled it. The only abnormal abuse my front end takes is that there is a 3" step transitioning from my driveway to my street. This transition is always taken at turned angle whether backing out or pulling in. (not good for steering components). My street is a main street so occasionally my approach home from the speedy street is a bit hot which causes strut top out with those old struts on new AC coils. I guess i'm leaning toward aiming the parts cannon at the strut bearings and strut hats. Anyone have any thoughts on this before I drop another $100+ on parts and labor?
  20. I did this job a few months ago. It sucks badly. Getting everything reconnected is the most difficult part. Sent from my Pathfinder
  21. Down here in Tassie we call it the "Covid Tax" old $2-$4k Landcruisers and Patrols down here now go for anywhere between $8k to $16k, it is stupid. Even caravans, and in particular off road campers are going through the roof too, we got ours delivered leading into covid for mid $20k and they are now selling $40-$50k second hand because the waiting times on new ones are up to and over 18 months. All because everyone can't go on interstate/international holidays any more they are buying up all the 4x4's ad campers so they can see their home state, and camp etc... I'm calling it, there will be a glut of 4x4's and off road campers on the market in the next 18-36 months, back at realistic if not rock bottom prices.
  22. Welcome to NPORA! Sorry, sometimes posts go unnoticed or nobody has a great suggestion to share. The transmission cooler isn't as big of an issue on these as it is with later Nissans (R51 Pathfinder and N50 Xterra) so the topic isn't extensively covered, but extra tranny coolers have been done on R50's (1996-2004 Pathfinder). Any generic cooler suitable for a midsize SUV should do, just find a place to mount it near the radiator. There was one particular kit from Amazon for pretty cheap that was popular for a little while but I've long since deleted that bookmark. Mounting will have to be custom pretty much whatever route you go.
  23. Thank you for writing all that! I am going to attempt it tomorrow, since I had jinxed myself and the alternator died today.
  24. Hi, like the look of that Bull bar. I am looking at fitting an Opposite Lock bar to my 2007 R51but I am bloody confused as to which one fits! The instructions with the bar supplied to me says D40 Navara 2010 on and Pathfinder R51 but I don't know whether that means all R51's or just 2010 on. Did you come across this when you installed your bar?
  25. If the trans was rebuilt properly, the fluid level is somewhere close to right, and the torque converter isn't dead (is it the original or did you replace that when you had the trans rebuilt?), it's gotta be electrical. If the "power" light on the dash (or in the E-AT switch, if yours is round dash) flickers when you turn the ignition on, the trans computer is unhappy about something. There's a procedure in the service manual for pulling codes from the trans computer, that's where I'd start.
  26. Hey all, I know this sub board isn't super active but I wanted to put a feeler out there to see if there is any interest in a PNW NPORA meetup this summer 2021. I'm thinking a day trail run, or even an overnight weekend caping trip etc. I'd love to put some faces to screen names and see everyone's rigs! I'm in Portland - Maybe there is a good halfway point between here and Seattle that could work for most? Putting it out there...
  27. Check whether the cargo area light is on. The cargo light only comes on if the rear door is open. (At least this is how my '93 was set up; I'm pretty sure '95 is the same.) If the cargo light is on, it's the switch in the rear door, which is a common problem that I had on my '95 too. I've read you can fix it by shimming the striker. Mine was beyond that (or I did it wrong) so I ended up disconnecting the wire and teeing it into the switch for the tire carrier warning light instead. This worked great once I figured out it needed a diode to stop the dome light from backfeeding the tire carrier light on the dash. If the cargo light is not on, it's a door switch. To track down which it is, disconnect one at a time until the lights go out (obviously keep the other doors closed until their switches are disconnected). Start with the one that looks torn up. If it's one of the side door switches, you may be able to get it working again just by popping it apart and clearing it out. Something to try before ordering a new one, or a temp fix until the replacement shows up.
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