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  1. Today
  2. It seems okay. Although I've never experienced it with a full antenna since mine came broken off. I mostly use it with my Bluetooth-radio set-up which is close proximity though.
  3. Yeah window tint is very much like the optics on a pair of sunglasses. You can get stuff that looks great and performs decently, like a pair of Walmart sunglasses or you can get a pair that look almost identical but they have polarized lenses with multilayer coatings. Likewise window tint can have all sorts of different properties like high visible light transmission with very low infrared transmission(expensive— “ceramic”), or you can have very low visible light transmission with high infrared(cheap— “limo tint” from Wally World).
  4. just barely used the sliders today, and found this difficult obstacle, which highlighted my need for a locker. With how the trail approaches this 2-3 foot step at a 90* angle, I couldn’t keep all of either my rear or front end perfectly in traction. I feel like a front locker would’ve pulled me right over. I’ll have the money here to swing one soon, but I’m worried about install-I don’t think I can do it myself
  5. Never checked codes, limp always goes away on its one with no other issues
  6. Looks to me like the rust started between the panels where they overlap. It's tough to protect metal when it's sandwiched together like that. Dirt and water wick in between and the seam rots from the inside out, and the rust that forms is bigger than the steel was, so it forces the seam apart. Seam sealer might've helped, at least for a while. I don't know where Nissan did or didn't put seam sealer on the R50s, but I don't see evidence of sealer in the pictures above. Engine heat and bracket placement probably didn't help, but IMO having an unprotected lap joint in a wheel arch was always going to cause problems.
  7. Removing the shim will help with the positive camber. When you crank up the torsion bars it lift the front which pulls the tierods in closer giving you neg toe. You can do a diy alignment to get thr alignment closer to spec until get it professionally done. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
  8. That is fskced up man. I was in that area last summer. One member of NPORA in prince george told me not to stop for anyone on the side of the road.
  9. There I would specifically look for the tint designed to block infrared rays. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  10. I planned to get tint regardless. It would help slightly, but even in one of my other well-tinted vehicles, it's still no match for summer AZ sun. On an average summer day, it's nothing for me to measure 160+ degrees inside the cabin of that vehicle. I know the system is working as designed. The problem is that it just isn't designed to handle the temps we see here in AZ. The majority of my driving is low speed, around town, driving, so it's something I'm very motivated to fix.
  11. Brake/ABS Light on 1993 Nissan Pathfinder --- Brake Fluid is Low. Add brake Fluid and lights will go off.
  12. Yesterday
  13. Have you had any codes pop up when this happens? Or does it just go into limp and then no other issues?
  14. DIY 9" Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  15. Truck is way better to drive now that the clutch is adjusted. Instead of putting in the LEDs ended up putting up the signal booster and running the wires so they are nice and hidden in the trim. What are the odds some kids would get murdered along the alaskan highway doing a road trip like mine 2 or so days ago when my girlfriend is already hella skiddish
  16. This is a real shot in the dark, but my vehicle has gone into limp mode 3 times in the 9 months that I’ve had it. Each time that’s happened, it’s been on the same day that I do a sloppy change from Reverse to Drive (put it in drive while the car is still rolling back). But at the same time, without fail, if I properly shift the car, it doesn’t go into limp mode. This could have nothing or everything to do with your problem, but it’s my only frame of reference for dealing with this.
  17. Awesome!!! You should be able to copy and paste the link here, it may not play on the page but at least we can navigate to the video. Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
  18. I got my parts rig yesterday... It's not that bad! I think I'm going to put the TDI and SAS in the parts rig! The body is a little rough the kid cut the fenders out. but it will be a lot less work and I can drive the red one till I'm done. The gold/tan one has a rear disc diff. If someone is interested I will be selling it. I'm going to cut all the suspension brackets off for the 9" Ford housing. I found an awesome video on how to do shorten and install the brackets in the same place and the factory brackets! Unfortunately I haven't figured out how to attach the YouTube link. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
  19. Copying just a lil bit hahaha hopefully in the next couple weeks I'll get them Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  20. I mean sliders are cool and all, I can see how they might be useful, but are you sure your not just tryna copy me? Looks good dude. Can’t wait to see you get some sliders! And for our rigs to get more similar again
  21. Hey there, folks! I looked into some of the forums, and most people are talking about bad camshaft sensors - to no luck, apparently. So, here is the low-down on the vehicle: - I just replaced the timing chain on my sister's 2004 (3.5l) Pathfinder. After replacement, the vehicle ran fine during the test run, until about halfway home, wherein it went into limp mode - no CEL. - I made it back home, let the car sit for about a half hour, and it was fine. Delivered the vehicle to her, where she drove to work the next day with no issues, until on her way home (about a 20-30 mile highway commute). The car went into limp mode again. She took the car to her main mechanic, where he was unable to replicate the issue, but he checked that all timing was correct (I was a bit afraid that it may have jumped a tooth while the tensioners were building pressure). Keep in mind, this vehicle idles perfectly, and will drive for a few miles now before the it goes into limp mode. No bad clicking, knocking, or 'baddie sounds." We just replaced BOTH VVT solenoids and replaced the oil (again) with a new filter. Still goes into limp mode, and still has the dreaded intermittent P0021 code. My sister, at this point, is ready to just trade the car in (and I would FULLY support getting this gremlin out of her possession). We were going to try a few things, and gather some recommendations before we do so, though. My next step will be to switch camshaft sensors. If the code now switches to P0011 (I think that is the correct code), I will know that the camshaft sensor is bad. If it doesn't, though, there will be no need to throw more money at it (though it could still be a wiring harness issue). Other than that, I don't exactly know where to begin diagnostics with this. I feel like we have done the majority of 'cheap' fixes to solve the issue. I told her that I am happy to tear back in, and replace the camshaft/and or phaser if need be. I would like to use that as an absolute last resort, though. Is there any way to test that a phaser is going bad? I have noticed tiny fluctuations of RPMS (almost as if the RPM gauge is 'vibrating' for lack of better words?), which makes me think that the sensor is on it's way out, or the sensor is picking up on incorrect magnetic rpms of the phaser. What do you all think? Any suggestions?
  22. I’m right there with you. My wife said I looked like I was 50 going on 20 : (
  23. Fun little trip up to the hills to run on some mild trails, 1 rock wanted to high five my door, now I'm buying rock sliders lol Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  24. Went on a weekend shake down trip for the new suspension in the Cascades. I can really see why I’ve never heard a complaint about the ARB OME struts & HD springs. That’s a 97# bumper on there and the truck has never driven smoother or tighter. I’m looking forward to an A-Arm poly upgrade. I find the Land Rover 9448s a little rough but they improve with some load.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] thinks part of the rear issue may be my Tyler Morgan control arms as his truck is smoother in back. I’m running his old Bilstein 5100s while we figure out the right 5165s so that may be contributing as well. I think I’m getting a little top out now & then. Thanks again to[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] who consumed three whole afternoons (until Midnightish) working with me to change everything over. It honestly would never have happened without him.
  25. Heat rejection from *good quality* window tint has a huge effect on AC cooling. Air flow over the condenser at low speeds is another big factor. Our AC setup has the ability to do some serious cooling. I've measured 34degF at full blast with recirculation on. If its not fighting an onslaught from the sun then I bet it'd get chilly in there quickly. I do notice vent temps rise the instant I start slowing down.. hopefully I can report better performance after my electric radiator fan install. I'd be interested to hear what someone with high quality tint experiences.
  26. Have you checked your radiator fan clutch? I actually removed mine and put in an electric radiator fan. Made a huge difference in AC temp when sitting or going slow. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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