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  2. I can order flanged JIS stuff at my local bolt house. They service a big Toyota plant and a huge Kubota plant so it very well might be a special situation. I’m sure anyone can order flanged JIS nuts and bolts but maybe it’d have to be in larger quantities? Most JIS stuff is 10.9 and everything we use at my job is 12.9 so I usually use what we have and call it a kaizen hah! I used high strength M14 zinc plated threaded rod and welded a nut and washer to the one side. I also have a habit of completely coating anything I touch with copper anti-seize.
  3. A TD27 would be grand, but alas we can only dream. Be sure to keep updates on the forum. It'll be useful for the future when you look back and can't remember if you've done something, allow you to get help if you find yourself stuck on anything, and also provides more info for others undertaking the task in the future. I can't wait to read that you've got it all buttoned up and back on the roads!
  4. I agree that $50 is too much, but you won't find anything to match OE easily. Believe me, I've looked. The OE bolts are flanged M14 x 1.5 x 80mm (not including those nubs at the end), and the nuts are PTLN flanges. You won't find flange bolts like that, unless you want to pay >$20/ea for some titanium ones. You can look for M14 x 2.0 and 9/16"-18 x 3.25" sizes, but you won't find them in comparable quality to OEM. Either the flange won't be available (not even sure it exists for 9/16"-18), it won't be zinc plated (plain or black-oxidized hardly offer much corrosion resistance), or the length (especially 3.25") will be tough to find. You can find hex bolt options no problem, if you're willing to change to flat washers. But look, forget all that. The FSM doesn't spec replacing the bolts...it only specs replacing the nuts. If anything, buy a couple or more of the short bolts (54368-0W02A) depending on how gnarly yours look and 8 of the PTLN nuts (08918-6441A). That way you follow spec, and have some bolts handy should you have to destroy them out (it happens when you round a nut) or the threads get boogered. Short bolts are $2/ea and nuts $1/ea from nissanpartsdeal.com or courtesyparts.com (these are actual Nissan dealerships; use "nis10" at Courtesy for a discount). The long bolts (55080-0W00B) are what drive the cost up, at $6/ea, and they have those stupid shear-offs that prevent fitment in some places...avoid them.
  5. Hey gang. I need to swap out the engine in my '95 WD21Pathfinder. I always wanted to swap out the engine with a TD27T. I've been prepping instead for a VG33E swap since the Nissan Diesel engines are very rare here in the US. Just as I'm about to pull the trigger on a VG33E, I suddenly found an importer who has both a TD27T and a QD32ETI. Both come with a 5-speed gearbox and I could have my choice for $2700. Steep but ultimately worth the cost over long term fuel savings. Just theoretically which of the two would be the easiest swap? The TD27T is a bit under powered but it seems like it would be the easiest Diesel swap. What says the community? I'm mostly worried about the wiring. Presumably I'd need a matching ECU for either? Cheers.
  6. Right. I swapped out my motor mounts about six months ago. Well, my friend Danny did it. We had to modify the mounts to make them fit. No idea why they didn't fit out of the box but the parts guy warned us about it in advance. Ugh. I gave one last look around for a TD27T engine and found a couple. But at $3K and without easy access to parts it's a gamble. And an expensive one give the lack of ancillaries, ECU, etc. I lick my chops at the thought of 23+ mpg and I always fancied a Diesel swap, but I think it's just too far afield. So a VG33E it shall be. JDM importers have them in abundance. The two I have my search narrowed to each want about a grand for a low mileage, "tested" engine. That's agreeable. Big thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It really cleared up everything for me. Going ahead with the project will be so much less baffling. Thanks a million.
  7. Thanks guys, I ended up bringing it into the store, it is M14x1.5 I went with just a nyloc nut instead of the lock washer and nut
  8. For future reference, 50 bucks for 8 bolts is too much. A local nut and bolt supply house would have the exact same thing (minus the external torx) for a quarter of that and 12.9 black oxide socket cap bolts with nuts and washers for even less.
  9. Dug this up in order to report that my recent oil change to SuperTech 10w30 yielded the same noisy results. I don’t know why my engine hates 10w30 so bad.. but it really does. I thought I had a rod knocking and I’m still greatly puzzled by what that sound could’ve been... I threw a quart of mystery oil in to decrease the viscosity some and 50% of the noise went away. Then as soon as I got home I drained the oil and put 5w30 in, quiet as a mouse. What the heck is going on here?? 10w30 sounds like my engine is falling apart and 5w30 it’s quiet as ever. Is my oil pump worn out or something? And if so then wouldn’t thicker oil cause better performance... what in the heck is going on here...?
  10. Try using the high pressure wash at a car wash to clean out the fins of the a/c condenser, it could be dirty and restricting airflow. With the fan, it shouldn't really spin at all by hand with the engine hot. It should have a pretty heavy drag and stop moving the moment you let go. With the engine cold, it should turn pretty easily, but still have a light drag.
  11. Took a trip to DDM tuning today for some light bulbs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Yep, you can be pretty sure the left one will fall apart once the engine gets lifted up.
  13. I believe it is a 14x1.5, but cannot confirm that right now.
  14. I can vouch for water wetter. That stuff does work and if turning on the heater is all the nudge you need to be in range then it might just work for you. You might also consider an electric fan. My engine would try to overheat with the AC on at idle on a hot day. Now the electric fan keeps the temps below 210 no matter what, AC on up a mountain at nearly 100 degrees outside. I hope you find a solution where you don’t have to worry about it anymore.. I truly loath worrying about major vehicle failures.
  15. Yesterday
  16. If you are going to live with it, I'd try putting in a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  17. Update; Checked my fan clutch and it's tight enough. Only 1/4 or 1/2 spin after engine warmed up. Showed my video in OP to the mechanic and he said that's not head gasket as it would be more pronounced bubbling or fuzzing and since I've had the problem for a year it would have gotten worse by now if this was the result of a very minor failure in the gasket. On the pump he reckons this car has metal fins and so the pump would either fail or work properly, so if it was the pump id have more serious overheating due to pump failing to circulate coolant properly. He reckons not to bother with combustion test (doesnt reckon itll show up) and just live with it if I've tried all else.. easier said than done! Might just get the test done for peace of mind..
  18. Alright, first update has been posted, taken from FB: I sought some clarification about proximity of parking vs. tent setups on the grass and the dirt area adjacent to the grass isn't fenced off, so it'll be possible to park close to your tent (presuming it's not all filled up, hopefully).
  19. Take it into a good fastener store and they should be able to find the right ones. You'll want a grade 10.9 nut as well.
  20. Good call on changing those seals. I didn't when I put mine in but didn't have any issues. It's always a gamble though.
  21. Part diagrams show this nut is part number: 08911-6441A (Upper Control Arm Retainer Nut) I haven't had any luck finding what size the nut actually is, though.
  22. So I think with the help of clearer diagrams from the FSM that maybe I've found the seals and 'filter'. It was a bit confusing with the 'filter' because the parts website shows parts actually labeled as automatic transmission oil filter right above the listing for the oil strainer. I think the oil strainer is the part needed, it most appears the same to all other A/T filters I've seen before. My part numbers, again listed for mostly my own log, but also for anyone in the future possibly hunting this information as I am now: Filter/Screen: 3172841X03 Input Shaft Oil Seal: 3137551X03 Output Shaft Oil Seal: 31375-41X01 O-Ring on Input Shaft at Torque Converter: 3115921X00 Oil Pan Gasket: 3139741X05 I also managed to located and order the flex plate (Nissan calls this a Drive Plate) needed for the 'HD' version (Part Number: 123315S700) for $60 shipped from a salvage yard in south Alabama. (This was difficult to locate as many yards showed it in stock but had sold it with the engine.) I again can't state how much I appreciate the help of both those directly commenting in this thread, but from all of those who have provided information on the topic of not just transmission swaps in general, but for all of the stuff we need to keep our wonderful old trucks rocking and rolling!
  23. Nope. Got all the same length. Found a post stating where I should cut off the break away ends before installing in a couples places. Figured this would be fine seeing that 4x4 parts only ships one size as well.
  24. Good luck and let us know how it goes. It'd be good to know if the Fronty pedal box turns out to bolt up.
  25. Don't forget motor mounts. You don't need anything special, but don't assume that your originals will be worth reusing.
  26. I'm looking at the Nissan parts diagrams for the transmission and I'm pretty sure I the o-ring you are talking about, but I'm a bit confused about the seals... The seals I see for the input and output shafts seem to be buried behind a few snap rings and plates. Surely I am looking missing something? If you have the time to track a part number or lookup code on a diagram, I'd be eternally grateful. If it helps, the truck I got the donor transmission from has the VIN: 1N6MD29YX2C378481 I am gonna go and see if I can scour the factory service manual again for a better exploded parts diagram. If that fails, I'll just have to watch one of the RE4R01A tear down videos to see where any seals come out.
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